How would you do it?

[Messiah]

Hey guys,

Now before you think that i've skiving off doing research and bludging the answers off you, the point of this question isnt to get everyone to plan out my car for me, but instead its to help me see the many different ways to acheive one desired goal. I'm a newb when it comes to modding engines (i can make a computer scream but petrol and electricity dont mix) and i want to avoid sinking into the mindset of a single path with set steps and instead replace it with a whole lot of possibilities. I'd be interested in hearing as many answers from as many people as possible as i know u all have your own philosophies.

So heres my question (and dont feel that you have to be too specific),

Say you had a gts25t and wanted to take it to 300rwkw, how would you do it?

Remember guys, i'm not looking for a howto, just an idea about the different ways it could be acheived, plus it will be interesting to be able to compare all the responses (if i get any). I'm especially looking forward to sydney kids answer, he always makes it shound like brain surgury.

P.S Sydney kid, where in syd are you, and have u ever considered giving classes on working skylines? if not wanna start?

Look forward to reading your creative answers

Messiah

[GTRgeoff]

I'm certain there is a definitive "how to" on here by the fabled "SK" with specifics on the power potential of each mod......

try this then.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=33412

It will give you an idea of starting point.

300rwkw is a lot to try to drive with. Are you sure your not going to be another Skyline killer as others have been recently?

[JimX]

I would buy a car that was already 300rwkw, if that's what I wanted. It will be cheaper and much more convenient.

If you have money to burn and don't mind your car being off the road for long periods at a time, you might want to consider an RB30 conversion. Then add in the usual stuff (fmic, exhaust, fuel system, ECU, etc) and put on a beefy turbo like a GT30. If your car is stock and you have to pay for all of this, set aside the better part of $15k, maybe more.

Is there any particular reason you are aiming for 300rwkw?

[GTRgeoff]

JimX I like the way you're thinking.

[Messiah]

I love my skyline, i want it to run for years to come.

300rwkw was really just a number i picked out of my head to try and open up the ammount of options people had (although maybe i should lower it so that it doesnt require "everything"). i guess maybe some around mid to high 200's would be better and more realistic.

So yeah lates make it 250ish if it makes it a better question.

Messiah

[Aurora]

HKS GT2530

HKS Type S Cooler

560cc Injectors

Bosch 044 Fuel pump

Power FC

Blitz DBC Type R

Split Dump

3" Front pipe

High flow cat

3.5" cat back

Tasty

I'm half way there

[JimX]

250rwkw or so will save you having to build an engine with a stronger bottom end, so you can subtract maybe $3-4000 from the price. But the rest of it still needs to be done with roughly the same costs, maybe saving a little by having to go 550cc injectors instead of 850cc, for example. Oh, I also forgot clutch and suspension in the above, so throw in another $3k or so I have probably forgotten other stuff too.

Unless you have a LOT of money to burn right here right now, there are better questions to ask. Such as where to spend the money first, to cater for 250-300rwkw at a later date. For example, getting an FMIC and ECU now will not give you 300rwkw now, but they can be the same things you will use once at that power level and still give you some benefit in the meantime.

Suspension is a good place to start.

[GTRgeoff]

I'm only after a mild 250rwkw for track and the shopping list is as follows:

Forged arias 40 thou os pistons (1300)

GTR conrods (extra rpm) (300)

O ringed block and engine work (700)

Heat treated ACL race beaings

GTR fuel pump that has delivered 314rwkw (190)

Malpassi rising rate fuel reg (130)

balanced bottom end, lightened and balanced flywheel

6 puck brass clutch (550)

3" turbo back exhaust (need dump 250)

RSR suspension

Tight LSD (dont have specs, came as is)

Power FC (soon) (1000)

800HP Hybrid FMIC 3" (700)

Rigoli modded turbo (600)

Rose jointed adjustable caster rods (150)

racebrakes.com RB74 pads and Motul 5.1 brake fluid. (150)

Water injection (100)

FMIC water spray (50)

Further suspension - pineapples, adjustable sway bars and adjustable camber kits F/R (300)

Total ~$6500 and I do all of the labour myself so triple that.

So as you see it is not just a matter of the engine, but the stopping and turning as well to handle the extra power. I think what tends to overwhelm newbies to big power is the rate at which you get to ludicrous speeds, then forget to brake early enough or try to turn going too fast.

To make what is hopefully a quick track car, or even one that will safely make good power long term and handling, the bill gets out of control.

Buy one with the engine work done and then do the handling and brakes.

[Messiah]

JimX,

Cheers, now we're talkin.

Really i'm still in the planning stages for my car. This really is just a research and feed back question to help me work out the best paths or possible paths based on others experience. Theres alot of info in these forums, some of in conflicting some of it unanamously supported, but what i did notice is that alot of people seems to place priority and importance in widely varying areas, and being a thinking man i thought i'd try and get some clarification in one centralised spot.

I think i asked a question a little like this when i first joined the forums, but it was more of a where do i start kinda question. Now i know that but i'm snowed under with options.

Heres whats on my todo list (in rough order)....

Cold Air partition

Boost controller

Power FC

New Clutch (now this one niggles me... so many options double plate, triple plate

Suspension work

FMIC (will prolly be done along side a bigger turbo)

Thats all i've planned for now.

I'm trying to follow a "preparation first" flow and get the engine ready for bigger better things. But right now i'm trying to get my head around what works and what doesnt, and i thought the best way to find that out without trying it is to ask people who might have tried it already.

Yeah i know i ramble, but when it comes to car modding i get easily distrac... ooerr shiney thing!

Messiah

[JimX]

With the clutch - Budget for it, but don't change it until the old one starts slipping. I've seen some cars where the factory clutch ridiculous amounts of power. There's no sense in changing it until it stops working.

[GTRgeoff]

Butting in.... You can get a brass puck style single plate that will handle the power easy, but with a sprung centre so it won't be entirely undrivable (rev-pop-rev-pop to get going or just rev dump spin fine) and having driven one from Just Jap sydney I was quite surprised. Juddered a lot particularly in reverse up hills riding it but better all the same than a solid button.

Get the FMIC as early as possible to prevent over exuberance, pinging (detonation) and cracked pistons. The thermal capacity of the stock cooler is very poor hence I used water spray.

[Messiah]

SkylineGeoff

I tend not to mention the handling and suspension all that much as that is the part i understand the most, i forgot to mention that a strut brace and new brake disks and pads are up there on the list too.

Heh the reason i ask u guys questions like this is cos i have a brother in law who follows the "if it doesnt move chrome it, if it doesnt go fast enough turn the boost up" and i'm making sure that whatever advice he gives me is tempered by common sence, and since i have none i thought i'd ask all of you then research yr answers.

Also why would i want to buy a pre-modded car??? half the enjoyment is doing it yrself and watching yr machine grow and blossom.... oh and giggling at yr back balance weekly.