Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Buy a 1970 HG 350 GTS Monaro, probably slower than a stock r34 gtt but you will pull lots a bewbs in an old skewl monaro

Now we are talking, my old man use to own a hk gts. I was also looking into buying a late model monaro not to long ago, but stuck with my 33, probably because i couldn't get the amount i wanted if i was to sell it.

We own 7 Monaro's in our family. A HG 350GTS 4spd manual, 2xHG 308 GTS 4spd's, a HT 308 GTS 4spd, a HT 350 Bathurst and 2 wrecks for spare parts :D

My dad brought his HG 308 gts in 1981 for $2000 :D

ive had an 03 monaro. with full difilpo exhaust intake. maf tune etc .. and i got rid of it in a week.. and what can i say. i have a 34 gtt now... the monaro is just a massive peice of crap.. they cant handle for crap.. its a crappy feel compared to a skyline imo

I owned a vx R8 clubsport for a few years, it had 295rwhp. the R8's eat the cv8's in handling. my first R34 GTR vspec 2 which had 293 awhp out handled the R8 by lightyears, the R8 felt like you were in a boat, it was scary jumping in that thing after going for a drive in the GTR. In a straight line the GTR leaves the R8 for dead. My advice is to buy a GTR, it doesnt have to be a 34. 32's and 33's are reasonably priced these days, even for a good example. Just go to a Holden car yard and test drive a 2005 HSV, they shine over the CV8's (they have the same setup as an SS) and you will still be disappointed.(oh yer, my clubby broke shit all the time.) Hope this helps, good luck.

LOL That is such a simple question I am wondering why you needed a thread to debate it.

Skyline Chassis = Bred for racing.

Commo Chassis = Bred for family driving.

End of story, later.

If you really want a V8 go for the VX GTS with the callaway motor.

Edited by Mandingo

Why don't you buy a HSV GTS Coupe or go for a VS HSV GTS-R?

They both have the tuned Calloway 5.7 motors and they go farking hard.

Nothing beats the sound of a tuned V8, not even a high hp, high revving RB26.

I'm getting bored with my R34 and am thinking of changing to a 04/05 V8 Monaro. There arent any around here to test drive so I was wondering if there is anyone who has driven both can give me some advice about what I can expect in handling/performance differences.

Get a FPV F6, its faster, handles better (even better than your gtt, try low 1:42's at winton std) and it great as a daily. If you get bored then flash it and then you will have no hope of being caught by any flashed HSV. Im downright amazed at what we pull from flashed F6's....

there are other options for interesting cars, not just monaro or skyline... porsches, mercs, bmws, audis

just for interest sake I had a look at whats under 45k on carsales, going from high price to low, there's a beautiful 1960s 250 ferrari in there!!

If I was bored, I'd test a bunch before making a decision. What if you end up hating the monaro? Just test heaps, include high powered skylines too. Maybe all you need is a bazillion killerwasps?

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/result...home&Nne=15

Oh yeah, at least! Couldn't use it as a daily, more a weekend toy. The other cars are more daily drives. The 250 is one of those cars I'd love to own but never will.

Was just giving some interesting info anyways. If I wanted to spend that much on a daily drive I'd look toward m3's, but each to their own.

Edited by Galois
You would spend 4 times that a year keeping it running...

i would sincerely hope that the 1000k old built holden V8 under the hood of that fezza wouldn't cost $180,000 a year to run :P

Why don't you buy a HSV GTS Coupe or go for a VS HSV GTS-R?

They both have the tuned Calloway 5.7 motors and they go farking hard.

Nothing beats the sound of a tuned V8, not even a high hp, high revving RB26.

VS GTSR is Holden powered. Not Chev

Also IMO built 26 @ 10+ K RPM sounds much better then most V8's, but not short stroke boosted ones.

Nothing beats the sound of a tuned V8, not even a high hp, high revving RB26.

i couldn't DISAGREE any more if i tried. quiet an odd opinion to have on a skyline enthusiasts forum, if i may say.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
×
×
  • Create New...