Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all, just wondering what gbox oil were running out there,

im getting a gtr box, the dude said it was starting to crunch occasionally 3rd to 4th at like 8000rmp... (dont ask :S)

ive heard good things about redline shockproof and royal purple.

with the redline would i want a heavy or light?

seems like 75w 90 is a common thickness.

thanx all :D

Edited by chef_stagea
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336278-gearbox-oils/
Share on other sites

hi all, just wondering what gbox oil were running out there,

im getting a gtr box, the dude said it was starting to crunch occasionally 3rd to 4th at like 8000rmp... (dont ask :S)

ive heard good things about redline shockproof and royal purple.

with the redline would i want a heavy or light?

seems like 75w 90 is a common thickness.

thanx all :D

if you're getting a gtr box and u know it has issues, then why not fix the problem rather than applying a band aid?

shockproof does root synchros. good for straight cut/dogboxes but BAD for gtr stock boxes

do yourself a favour - take the box to a trans workshop, get the synchros fixed and check out the gears for stress

-D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336278-gearbox-oils/#findComment-5439919
Share on other sites

I always have heard NOT to put shockproof in because it ruins syncros.

Im running Castrol Syntrax 75w90 in a RB25 box.

I've been told the same thing and read it on forums. I spoke to Shaun at Boostworx only yesterday (want to do both diff and gearbox) about this and he's assured me that this is what they use and recommend for gearboxes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336278-gearbox-oils/#findComment-5439987
Share on other sites

I've been told the same thing and read it on forums. I spoke to Shaun at Boostworx only yesterday (want to do both diff and gearbox) about this and he's assured me that this is what they use and recommend for gearboxes.

I'd rather believe a pro, than forum 'experts'.

:cool:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336278-gearbox-oils/#findComment-5440000
Share on other sites

I'd rather believe a pro, than forum 'experts'.

:cool:

Same. My mechanic however said the same thing as forum experts about the Shockproof (aka smurf poo) - said its notorious for wearing out synchros and then explained to me why

And considering how shagged my box is, I'm not surprised. Been using good quality mineral oil since and while I do have issues with the synchros, it hasnt gotten progressively worse

Even Redline themselves say on the website 'not to be used with synchromesh gearboxes'. so yeah. believe the company or believe the tuner? I know shaun knows his stuff but I personally would never use it

-D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336278-gearbox-oils/#findComment-5440027
Share on other sites

I have got redline shockproof lightweight after trying the castrol in my r33. It didnt fix the crunch from 1 to 2 but it did make it alot better. It only has a slight crunch every now and then

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336278-gearbox-oils/#findComment-5440114
Share on other sites

After asking around about the shockproof stuff, sometimes it can be too thin, and feels like there is is no "resistance" in the gearbox, almost "too quick".

Ive got some Castrol Syntrans 75w-85 in my 20 box, feels nice.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336278-gearbox-oils/#findComment-5440841
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all. So I have my GTR on the lift and have been working on it a few days and yesterday I unpacked the frontpipe that was wrapped with heat wrap stuff, because part of it was breaking down and soaked in oil. Noticed that the pipe itself does not actually look like a Mines, despite it supposedly being a Mines. But I could not find any fronpipe online that looks exacly like his, and I don't think it is a custom one. My amateur measurement also showed the two pipes are about equal length, so maybe this is just an old version of the Mines pipe? Would appreciate insight on this by the enlightened folks. greetings from Germany
    • Yeah. If I plug the connector in and connect the vacuum lines, I assume worse case scenario is that it simply doesn't work? Yep PFC.
    • I would think that rather than attempting to perform an engine swap, with all the difficulties associated with doing so in a country where the raw materials required are harder to get hold of, I would just build the CA20 for boost, find an EFI manifold for it and either add a turbo or a supercharger. Or both. You replace one set of difficulties with a different set, but I know which would be more fun.
    • Well, a proper aftermarket ECU** SHOULD be set up to run the purge solenoid, same as the factory ECU would, so that the tank breather system continues to operate the way it is supposed to. I have no knowledge of whether the PFC (which is what I assume you mean when you say Apexi) has an output (and internal logic) to run the purge solenoid. If it does not, then given the product design intent for the PFC, which is to be a plug in replacement for the stock ECU, I would consider that a massive failing on Apexi's behalf and would be another reason to think that they were a half-arsed solution to the problem if programmable management on RBs. I would suggest that since Nistune came to market (which is a LOOOOONG time ago now) there has been no valid argument for choosing a PFC, especially if the PFC can't do things like this.   **ie, Haltach, Link, Motec, etc
    • Thanks for asking the question we were all thinking!
×
×
  • Create New...