Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i am after some ideas on what i should do next.

the car is a r33 s2 manual.

mods so far

fmic

bosch fuel pump

splitfire coils packs

highflowed turbo

greddy profec b

full exhaust

i am after a little more go. (not after huge power).

most of the mods that were done to the car were done because of faulty parts at the time.

I do have a budget of 2k to spend.

daily driven car.

any ideas would be helpful, I have a bit of an idea but I just don't want to waste money on mods that are not worth it.

experiences would be helpful here..

thanks rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336349-what-next/
Share on other sites

Possibly some sort of ECU to make the most your current mods. Check the classified, there are a few power FC's floating around for a 33 or possibly a VIPEC (do they have a model for a GTST?) which is only say $500 up the road of your current budget installed and tuned. Would add a little if not a lot more go, which is what your after.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336349-what-next/#findComment-5440775
Share on other sites

You need a tunable ecu. Your next logical power mods would be bigger injectors and a Z32 afm. If you get a Link or a Vipec you won't need the afm and can just get some bigger injectors when funds allow or a good buy comes along. Set your adjustable cam gear at 4deg retarded - that should do until you get it on a dyno when you have an ecu.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336349-what-next/#findComment-5441006
Share on other sites

im pretty sure it dosnt matter if you get a manual or auto ecu the code is rewritten to suit your needs any way. Because your car is a series 2 thereare afew little issues we have found lately with the z32 ecu. One was fixed fairly easily the other is causing false knock to be detected making the car run on knock maps, hopefully the issue will be figured out soon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336349-what-next/#findComment-5441154
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...