Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there, I have a 93' R32 GTR. When i bought the car, i noticed it had white inserts for the guages in the dash cluster. Anyway, some of the gauges aren't working. I'm assuming the person who installed it had no idea how to hook everything back up, or the dash is faulty.

The oil pressure gauge goes to the max when i start the car up, the petrol gauge doesn't move - it sits at 3/4 full no matter what, and the speed-o is off by 10km (reading higher than actual speed). Where should i take my car to get these corrected? Just a regular auto electrician, or should i be looking for someone who specialises in imports?

I had a quick search but couldn't find anything useful, so i'm sorry if this has come up before!

Thanks in advance for any help! :P

Mick, it's not that difficult to take the dash cluster out yourself. It sounds like whoever put int he white inserts didn't connect things properly. Also the inserts sometimes are sitting flush and that can cause problems as well. I'm experiencing both speedo and tacho issues with my car so have taken out my dash cluster quite a few times.

It sounds to me like the connectors at the back of the cluster are not clicked in all the way. That would be where I'd start looking at first.

Mick, it's not that difficult to take the dash cluster out yourself. It sounds like whoever put int he white inserts didn't connect things properly. Also the inserts sometimes are sitting flush and that can cause problems as well. I'm experiencing both speedo and tacho issues with my car so have taken out my dash cluster quite a few times.

It sounds to me like the connectors at the back of the cluster are not clicked in all the way. That would be where I'd start looking at first.

Alright ill give that a go. Do i need to be worried about the position of the needles or anything? If i find they are not connected properly, and i reconnect them - should it be good to go, and accurate? Thanks mate

Not sure on the needles part, but the electronics determine where they should be. So if they get moved manually, I'd imagine the electronic parts would then correct them to where they should be. That's only my guess however, so don't take that as being fact.

i had to go to a specialist guage mob - like those that adjust speedos etc

if the needles are replaced in the wrong spot they will not auto correct themselves - especially on a 32 which uses the mechanical speedo

i had to go to a specialist guage mob - like those that adjust speedos etc

if the needles are replaced in the wrong spot they will not auto correct themselves - especially on a 32 which uses the mechanical speedo

Ahh cool, would you suggest going where you went? I'm in the city in sydney, not sure of any places i can go as of yet. Cheers for the info :dry:

Hey there, I have a 93' R32 GTR. When i bought the car, i noticed it had white inserts for the guages in the dash cluster. Anyway, some of the gauges aren't working. I'm assuming the person who installed it had no idea how to hook everything back up, or the dash is faulty.

The oil pressure gauge goes to the max when i start the car up,

Possibility that the wire from the sender has been pinched and is grounding somewhere (sender is a variable resistance to earth).
the petrol gauge doesn't move - it sits at 3/4 full no matter what,
Maybe the float for the sender (in the fuel tank) is broken.
and the speed-o is off by 10km (reading higher than actual speed).
You can move the needle on its spindle. Manually move the needle to point to, say, 60, then lock the rear wheel in place and GENTLY rotate the needle on its spindle back to 50.
Where should i take my car to get these corrected? Just a regular auto electrician, or should i be looking for someone who specialises in imports?

I had a quick search but couldn't find anything useful, so i'm sorry if this has come up before!

Thanks in advance for any help! :happy:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...