Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Intercooler Onto A R32 Gts-t Too Big?

335

By 335,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

335 Rising Star

335

Posted
Posted

Hello

I would like to know if a R32 or 33 GTR intercooler is too big for my R32 GTS-T. I mean is the intercooler too big for the size of my engine? Will it be better if I go with a intercooler made for my size engine? I do not want lag from putting on the GTR intercooler. My engine is stock, except I am going to put a RB25 turbo onto it. I have intake and exhaust done.

Help

limpus Mentor

limpus

Posted
Posted

Its not just the cooler but also the length of piping...just bung any proper core on there...you're not going to notice much difference between the 2...but that core in your link looks like its seen better days...

And you will never get rid of lag on a rb20...

335 Rising Star

335

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Its not just the cooler but also the length of piping...just bung any proper core on there...you're not going to notice much difference between the 2...but that core in your link looks like its seen better days...

And you will never get rid of lag on a rb20...

Not a lot of lag? The one in the pic has all of the piping, the gtr one I can get from my friend doesnt have any piping.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

To make the best install of the GTR cooler you'll need all the piping.

I put a GTR cooler/bov setup in my 32gtst and the fit is excellent, a little bulkier under the guards but a much nicer install than shitty china setups. Only had to drill two small holes for the vacuum lines on the bulkhead fittings, everything else bolted straight up.

Using GTR piping setup with your stock manifold will be pretty crappy though. China piping tends to be 2.5" which suits your stock throttlebody whereas GTR piping is like 3.25" and the plenum inlet is a similar size (I have a custom GTR plenum with a Q45 t/b on the front so it suits the 3.25" piping).

335 Rising Star

335

Posted
  • Author
Posted
To make the best install of the GTR cooler you'll need all the piping.

I put a GTR cooler/bov setup in my 32gtst and the fit is excellent, a little bulkier under the guards but a much nicer install than shitty china setups. Only had to drill two small holes for the vacuum lines on the bulkhead fittings, everything else bolted straight up.

Using GTR piping setup with your stock manifold will be pretty crappy though. China piping tends to be 2.5" which suits your stock throttlebody whereas GTR piping is like 3.25" and the plenum inlet is a similar size (I have a custom GTR plenum with a Q45 t/b on the front so it suits the 3.25" piping).

You put a GTR plenum onto your RB20? How? How much was that?　Does it help at all? So I should look for cheap China R32 GTS-T piping or GTR piping? How can I do the piping?

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted
You put a GTR plenum onto your RB20? How? How much was that?　Does it help at all? So I should look for cheap China R32 GTS-T piping or GTR piping? How can I do the piping?

The engine in my 32 is an RB25/30 (R32 RB25DE head so intake plenum bolt pattern is the same as RB20), I had a custom plenum made using the GTR chamber welded to stock runners.

If you want to use the GTR cooler then your best bet is using GTR piping and a forward facing plenum (search for KU Engineering) with a bigger throttlebody.

If you use the GTR cooler with stock manifold you will have to step from 3.25" down to 2.5" and run the normal "across the radiator" pipe that most aftermarket kits utilise.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

I think it is important to note here that there are no pipping kits to mate a GTR cooler to a GTST.

Using a GTR intercooler WILL require some form of custom pipework.

My plan was to use GTR cooler along with a china 2.5" pipping kit ane minorly modify the ends that meet the cooler. Will cost alot more by the time you buy the GTR cooler and the question will be raised, why? Performance will probably not be notable at sub 300rwkw and from what Ive seen an upgrade will be in order before getting to 400.

My 2c.

Marlin Grand Master

Marlin

Posted
Posted

Mike, just buy a complete front mount kit from Just Jap.

You'll be able to fit it yourself, as you don't seem to be a guy with a heap of knowledge about these things (no offence intended, an observation).

I run a JJR one on my tarmac rally car, has plenty of flow for 230+ RWKW (much more than you have now), and is the right price, with everything you need :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      That's the thing. Cam is smaller than before.. though the old cam was +6 degrees advanced. We're talking huge changes here, the narrowbands want to trim out 20% of fuel and pull the (wideband) idle to like 16.0 AFR or such. One side is a little more trimmy than the other. Think along the lines of ~20% to ~15-18%. Unfortunately my scouring of the internet hasn't really found anyone with this issue. People either just disable NB's or have them wildly different, where one is -20% and the other is +20 or 0 (i.e a sensor is just dead/wiring is just busted). Turning them off and relying on the base map only results in the wideband reporting at about 14.0 with the Varex closed. It'd be a little leaner (closer to 14.7ish) with the Varex open. I know I can just change the switch points so that the narrowbands agree with the wideband, but it's still odd. Both of them are reading voltage, it's just that they're reading quite high mv, in the ~800 region. It's just odd. This was with the IAT fudged to report it was about ~22 degrees which is my guesstimation of the temperature in the room. I have an OEM sensor ready to try tonight, which is slow and crap - but .. worked last time I used it. Sadly I am aware that idle tuning with the big TB is going to be a PITA and I look 'forward' to many hours spent stalling or stumbling idle or delving into drivability things.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably the cam.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The GTR strut brace clears the new manifold.. by about 0.5mm. So this means I need to buy an OEM GTT Strut brace (again), which will clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. I guess I can sell the GTR Strut brace with the bonnet with the vents as a package deal as someone will need this one day. So my choices are vented bonnet but no strut brace, or GTR Bonnet with OEM brace (which I have to buy) but is bright red instead of the same colour as the rest of the car, which means the entire front end of the car will just be red until it goes back to paint jail. In other news the engine starts and doesn't leak. Why both O2 narrowband sensors think the tune is rich AF I do not know. The idle is also pretty shitty and my expensive IAT sensor from the USA is dead. The car sounds awful. But I assume or at least hope this is due to the many exhaust leaks, and the concrete garage it is in, sitting there with 0 intake bolted to it, and no bonnet or panels or anything to stop the induction/intake sound which is about 200db.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      C'mon! At least come kicking and screaming into the 2000s. BA XR8 bulge.
    • The Bogan
      Guilt-toy Now Running On E85 !

      By The Bogan · Posted

      No such thing as E30 in Sydney servos As stated above, flex fuel is your only viable,  and "safe" option I believe
×
×
  • Create New...