Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

r u getting the latest Whiteline's Group4 shocks? Cos these looks like coilovers from the pictures on their website.

When I got mine done, the Group4 wasn't available yet, so I got the normal shocks and springs - not coilovers.

theyre still not out yet for gtrs

Really? Man that's been a long time.... I know someone with 180sx is also still waiting for group4 shocks for his car.... been more than 6 months since they announced that new shocks...

Hey guys,

I've always leant towards the whole Whiteline kit for some reason - has anyone here had or driven in a Kings/Bilstein comparable setup to a Whiteline setup? Whiteline kit comes with Konis doesn't it ?

Would there be any major difference? I understand it's all subjective but what would the objective/technical difference be?

Also is there a difference between coilovers and shocks and springs? Is the coilover just the shock-n-spring in one unit and the shocks and springs are seperate?

What is the difference in handling and application advantages/disadvantages?

_newb_

the whiteline kit uses Bilsteins

My whiteline kit uses Koni. I was told that they used to use Bilstein but not anymore. If you're getting Whiteline kit lately, it is most likely to be Koni. Bilstein probably gives better ride than Koni but they need to be overhauled every 2 years as I was told, while Koni is maintenance free.

My Whiteline kit had DMS shocks. I think the difference between the Konis and the Bilsteins is the B's are Gas and the K's are not.

I have lurked this whole thread...it really should be sticky'd there is just so much info in it

I was interested in SK's comment that he uses up to 30% antisquat How do you change this?? My problem at the drags at the moment is I don't get any squat at all !! I have what I believe is a stock...very well used spring/shock at the rear and Whiteline Spring/DMSshocks at the front+ whiteline swaybar...stock at rear + pineapples in drag config. Even with full slicks on the rear (track Pirelli Rosso D5's) not a trace of squat???

ride hgt is 370mm f/r. Irealise that the coilovers at the front don't help but stockies are going back on after Sat Track day. Anyone like to comment??

My Whiteline kit had DMS shocks.  I think the difference between the Konis and the Bilsteins is the B's are Gas and the K's are not.

I have lurked this whole thread...it really should be sticky'd there is just so much info in it

 I was interested in SK's comment that he uses up to 30% antisquat  How do you change this??   My problem at the drags at the moment is I don't get any squat at all !! I have what I believe is a stock...very well used spring/shock at the rear and Whiteline Spring/DMSshocks at the front+ whiteline swaybar...stock at rear + pineapples in drag config. Even with full slicks on the rear (track Pirelli Rosso D5's) not a trace of squat???

ride hgt is 370mm f/r.  Irealise that the coilovers at the front don't help but stockies are going back on after Sat Track day.  Anyone like to comment??

Hi 51Jay, our adjustable Koni Sports (yellow) are gas. Koni (red) are sometimes gas, sometime not, depends on application. I don't think Whiteline still use DMS, its my understanding that they now have their own, made in Europe to their specs.

Re anti squat, where have you placed the rear pinapples, the small ones above the subframe (between the mounts and the body)? Front or rear of the sub frame?

Is this gas type Koni shocks are the same with what the authority called airbag suspension and declared illegal for road use in some states?

So far I'm happy with my Whiteline kit, just one nag is on my GTSt the kit doesn't come with easy to adjust rear ones. Not sure how this can changed to be as easy to adjust as the front ones (using provided plastic cap)... maybe welding an adjuster "pole" that can be easily reached by making a small hole over the parcel shelf?

Well, in an effort to stop the ScibyLine from acting like a boat on the straights, I've ordered a set of Bilstein shocks to replace the Pedders Comfort Gas/KYB X-Cels that I've got at the moment... I've got sports ryder springs, which I have no idea what the rates would be, but hopefully it'll be fine. Anyone have any specs for Pedders springs? Pedders themselves are useless.

The Bilsteins are now in, married to the Sports Ryders... which are still a problem. While the Bilsteins have definitely told the springs to behave, it's still on the bouncy side of perfect... but only just. The problem is that the roads I have to live with are... well... shiiiiite. No two ways about it... the Bilsteins are good, and if I move to a better-roaded area, they're just waiting for a new sit of harder springs.

$1200 fitted, but worth it, I suspect.

Anyone know where and how much for a set of King Springs lows? :P

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...
Because of the extra weight, around 250 lbs front and 200 lbs rear would be OK for a GTR.  You really don't want (or need) to go much over 200 lbs in the rear of either a GTST or a GTR.  A 350 lb rate in the front springs is about the max I would recommend for a road car.

Guys;

Sorry to bring up an old thread but I was trawling through info on spring rates and found this post by Sydneykid. I was also reading the Nissan manual and (consistent with what Duncan posted elsewhere) the spring rates are listed as being heavier in the rear than the front (134 F/151 R), opposite to that suggested by SK.

I know that SK knows his stuff and I'd have also thought that heavier front than rear would make sense given the weight on the GTRs front axles but if that is the case why did Nissan specify the reverse?

SK are you out there? Anyone have any ideas?

Regards

hm.. interesting... can heavier spring rate induce more oversteer?

In a AWD system like GTR, an understeer is natural behaviour when pushed beyond its limit, characteristic of an 4WD/AWD car. When combined with stiffer front spring rate, the understeer effect can get worst.

Maybe Nissan engineer decided to put stiffer rear spring rate and softer front spring rate to dial out some of those understeer effect and to help the AWD GTR to turn in more into the corner, all in order to achieve a more balanced chassis dynamic.

This setup would be different in a RWD GTS-t because of RWD tendency to oversteer when cornering hard under power. That's how I guess on GTS-t the rear spring rate is softer than the front...

I'm no expert, so if it doesnt logic enough, feel free to discuss...

just my 2c....

"In a AWD system like GTR, an understeer is natural behaviour"

Is it? Ordinarily the GTR is rear wheel drive only, giving the car favourable rear-wheel drive characteristics until the rears reach the limit of adhesion and torque is then progressively transferred to the fronts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mate you saved be from dying in the Perth summer. AC wasn't changing direction and just going into diagnostics mode fixed it. You're a legend and I would shout you a beer if I could!
    • Unfortunately effort gone to waste, you will have substantial issues with how the manifold and wastegate have been integrated. You would be so much better off with a modified stock manifold like this: https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25detexgatedmanifold/   OR literally just getting a off the shelf Sinco or 6Boost manifold as myself and others have mentioned.  
    • Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
    • Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.
×
×
  • Create New...