Jump to content
SAU Community

Bad Idle

markdem

By markdem,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

markdem Community Regular

markdem

Posted
Posted

just replaced the coil packs with brand new ones in an attempt to solve the misfire problem around the 5000rpm range and a bad idle but ive still got problems. im getting flat spots and minor missfires all through the rpm range when i floor it and it still misses at idle. the spark plugs are platinum and are only about 5000kms old and ive gapped them down to 0.8mm so i dont think its them.

i took a video of it and put it on youtube to help you guys see what im talking about. you can hear the bad idle best when the camera is at the exhaust

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336621-bad-idle/
Share on other sites
payback21 Community Regular

payback21

Posted
Posted

Not that i can here it very clearly coz there is a dam bird chirping in the background, but it sounds like a shitty injector causing it to miss. I could be wrong as it is hard to hear.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336621-bad-idle/#findComment-5444047
Share on other sites
markdem Community Regular

markdem

Posted
  • Author
Posted

it did have a shitty injector that i changed just before i got new coil packs. i wouldnt be surprised if the others were a bit dodgey too. i was playing around with it after i started this thread and i turned the cam timing thingy all the way anticlockwise and it seemed to help... a lot! im not having as much of an issue with misfires under load now and the idle is completely smooth, so i think the timing belt has slipped over one cog on the exhaust cam. i might have to send it to some pro's to take a look at the orientation of the cam and crank

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336621-bad-idle/#findComment-5444515
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      braided lines for the turbos

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy Haven't really thought of that yet, but you are right. If the hose was damaged it should be absolutely pissing by now. I'll put some heat sleeve around it for good measure since I'm already removing the line anyway.  Maybe I'll put on some of the stock hardlines if I ever fully remove the turbos again. Maybe when T51R modding the compressor housings? Might be a fun mod on GT28s for that "fake single turbo" effect.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 1: I did some work on the car already before finalizing this post and my "issues" list. I dropped the Tomei exhaust in favor of the HKS Hi Power Silent. Sounds nice and I can actually hear myself think now. Also gives me a realistic chance to legally drive without silencer inserts. A bit of cheating was necessary to still be able to mount the Top Secret style diffuser. Some malusage of washers and a bit of "convincing" toward the brackets and exhaust hanger seemed to do the trick. The shaky steering wheel has been resolved as various suspension components were worn, like sway bar bushings and link bars. Most notably the two steering tie rod ends. Had some trouble finding bushings because my sway bars are not OEM thickness, 23.x up front and 27 rear. But non adjustable, so no aftermarket I suppose. Maybe they are nismo units? Turbo oil drain hoses were definitely still the originals and are new now. Wasn't the cause of the turbo oil leak sadly. Currently removing the rear turbo because of it, I suspect the braided oil feed line is the culprit. This issue needs to be dealt with so I can work towards actually getting the turbo setup legal and inspected. Two new issues to add to the list as well. Rear Main seal is probably leaking. Time will show how bad it is, I don't really want to drop the gearbox right now just for the stupid seal. Could fix a few other things in one go once I do that. Front right driveshaft grease is going past the cv boot, so at some point I'll fix that too.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok so no 4cyl clutch... Yeah it is a factory manual. So if iam correct i need clutch and flywheel too? I can use something that suits something like R32 GTST?   EDIT: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224291042776 Is this ok?   EDIT2: i maybe forget to mention this(dk how important it is) but the trans will be behind RB25DET NEO(iam doing swap) It will be there for a little while. Iam planing to do bigbox or BMW tranny..
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      You're probably right about that one. Thanks for your suggestions, I hope I don't need a new 3rd brake light. Although wiring issues might arguably be worse. Right now I'm in the midst of a turbo removal because of my oil leak, other problems are going to have to wait for now.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Hell, I know that much. So far I just put it off as "part of the deal".
×
×
  • Create New...