Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

id never thought about it that way. so the air coming in through the rad escapes throught the front of the bonnet meaning no air flows throght the rest of the engine bay?

and we also had the bonnet spaced up to clear the cooler piping so that didnt help.

No after air passes thru rad it then either travels down side of engine & downwards under the car by firewall or upward to the rear of the bonnet. My understanding is that it travels downward & under the car

I had a car (32 GTR) from japan with the rear of the bonnet spaced up. I thought it was a bit gay and everyone always thought my bonnet didn't close properly. when i got the chance I removed the spacers. temps definitely went up a bit. so yeah it's doing something. no doubt base of windscreen is a high pressure zone so maybe it's ingesting air through there and helping it force the other engine bay air (from the front bumper ducts) down the trans tunnel (which is where engine bay air escapes in a factory standard car with no bonnet venting)? I haven't studied it enough to know for sure but it's possible.

I had a car (32 GTR) from japan with the rear of the bonnet spaced up. I thought it was a bit gay and everyone always thought my bonnet didn't close properly. when i got the chance I removed the spacers. temps definitely went up a bit. so yeah it's doing something. no doubt base of windscreen is a high pressure zone so maybe it's ingesting air through there and helping it force the other engine bay air (from the front bumper ducts) down the trans tunnel (which is where engine bay air escapes in a factory standard car with no bonnet venting)? I haven't studied it enough to know for sure but it's possible.

function over fashion it is then.

i'll be the guy in the paddock with the riced up purple gtr. come and say hi.

well the only other thing I'll say is russ and mark do test what they do. I'm sure if it wasn't working they would have put it back. I know average temps were noticeably higher when I removed my spacers without any other change.

if nothing else just give it a go. it costs practically nothing and takes only 20 min or so to remove and replace the bonnet. with some mates to help you can just fit one side at a time which is even easier. get a temp probe under there somewhere, or just log oil and water temps over a session, then do the same with/without the spacers. if results look good, keep it, if not back to standard and back to head scratching!

will definitely come say hi and then ask you if you realise that your bonnet is not shut properly... lol :rant:

from memory mine were about 15mm maybe 20mm and I think there were longer bolts too as I seem to remember when I removed the spacers the bolts were too long. washers and longer bolt are fine. if you find it's beneficial you can always machine up a neater looking spacer later on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @soviet_merlin Thanks mate!  Nothing too major but will hold me up for a while. I've got lymphomas to get taken off the back of my neck and the middle of my spine which always conjures scary thoughts!  It sounds worse than it is. Yeah great, conjuring more rabbit hole deepening , just what I need! 🤣  
    • I'd argue the F50 kit I got is very good value. For ~2k I got the calipers (refurbed condition), adapters, pads, brake lines, rotors, and top hats. I think you'd be pretty hard to get Evo/GTR/350z brembos + the additional hardware for similar money. Used market for a pair of front calipers alone I've seen tend to run anywhere from $1500-2000 depending on condition.    That said, something like a GTR or 350z brembo is a lot easier to adapt to the Silvia. 
    • Is there a significant price difference between the Evo/gtr/350z brembos vs the F50? Looks amazing.
    • I was actually being a tightarse at the time LOL... My OCD is tickling me into running a 2nd 8AN Teflon hose all the way down and removing the 2x OEM hardlines. My other side of my brain is telling me to run 2x hardlines front to back (also acts as a fuel cooler, so win win).
    • As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had some trouble with the Silvia's brakes dragging back in 2023. I managed to sort it out then, but the same problem came back to bite me late last year. Just take a look at the picture – I had a feeling the handbrake was acting up again, and I was right. Anyway, I'd been wanting to upgrade to bigger brakes for a while. Not that the Silvia's brakes were bad, but it was more of a "want" than a "need", you know? It was funny, though – at the time, I couldn't find any Evo Brembos, 350Z Brembos, or GTR Brembos for a decent price (of course, tons of them popped up online after I already bought my kit!). I ended up going with an F50 Brembo kit, which came with adapters, brake lines, 330mm rotors, and top hats. The F50 Brembo caliper was used in a few other cars too, like the FPV. I also decided this was the perfect opportunity to ditch the Silvia's ridiculous rear brakes and that awful handbrake (some of you were definitely right about that!). I picked up some R33 calipers and all the necessary bits – rear drums, backing plates, and new hardware to refurbish the calipers. Of course, it wouldn't be a project without a few hiccups. Turns out the brake master cylinder was playing up and basically (to put it simply) keeping the brakes engaged. I had it overhauled, and after some adjustments, everything was working again. The whole process took a while, as you can imagine. To top it off, the front right wheel bearings were shot and needed replacing too. This is a rare occasion where I'm posting an update while it's all still fresh! These pictures were taken just this afternoon.
×
×
  • Create New...