Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Check out Mearcat (he's on the forums): He makes some fantastic guage pods specifically for C34 Stageas: I use both pods: a single guage on the dash near the a-pillar, and a double guage pod that replaces the factory clock: they are very well made, and look great: very neat!

I'll post pics tomorrow...

hey guys after input on where to put sum gauges in my stag pictures would be good

I put in a single Din head unit and mounted three gauges in the space, also have my boost gauge in the A/C vent in dash on D/S.

I have my boost gauge on the dash next to the a pillar, hasn't caused me any problems yet. Only stuck there with a bit of double sided tape as well and there haven't been any holes drilled, so it's easy to change its location if I have to.

Can sort of see it in this pic

IMG_0086.jpg

my gauges

08062007472.jpg

Thats cool in the centre vent. Think I will do the 25G that way. Wont need a boost until son gets a full licence, by then we will have all the goodies required.

Check out Mearcat (he's on the forums): He makes some fantastic guage pods specifically for C34 Stageas: I use both pods: a single guage on the dash near the a-pillar, and a double guage pod that replaces the factory clock: they are very well made, and look great: very neat!

I'll post pics tomorrow...

Yes please. I have my boost guage in the RH centre vent but don't really want to lose the whole vent. I would like oil pressure and temp as well and poss water temp (stock one is not very accurate).

I've only got a single-DIN stereo now, so I mounted Exhaust Temp, Oil Temp and Oil Pressure between the stereo and the HVAC controls (I managed to get an off-cut of 1cm thick thermo-plastic and cut the holes with a hole-saw), and Boost in a single Mearcat clock-replacement pod.

DefisintheStagea22.jpg

DefisintheStagea1.jpg

I installed an Innovative Motorsports wideband O2 sensor last week. Didn't want to drill holes in the dash and not sure how permanent it will be, so I ziptied it to the vent under the windscreen. Looks fine, doesn't get in the way and fairly stable. The clamp that comes with it is way too tall and chunky.

Hmmm JDMSprit's and Goldzilla's gauges look awesome :)

Sorry: Stag went to the workshop again, as I managed to collect my new daily: next week I'll have pics of the full Mearcat setup: They look great in the "flesh"- sit nicely, and require no holes to be drilled.

I was rather hesitant doing what I did. I had them double sided taped there for a while but the heat kept making the tape let go and I got rather annoyed so I took my time cutting the holes as flush as possible and Sikaflex'd them from the underside. As a plus it made the cups sit a good 4-5mm lower as the column cover is a good 2.5mm thick. I do plan on picking up a spare cover for what ever reason I feel like selling the car or removing the gauges in future. :)

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The max they would go for me is 50.
    • That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
    • I understand your sarcastic exasperation. But to be fair - the baffles do indeed fit OEM cam covers. They did omit to say that you need to do a bunch of stuff. But they do fit them.
    • Got started on the modification to make these splash plates fit over the long weekend. First the surprisingly time consuming task of swapping all the cam cap bolts to Tomei cam cap studs. I did the method of removing one bolt at a time, applying loctite to the stud, double nutting to torque as the manual described. Then carefully unlocking the nuts without disrupting the torque of the stud (and going back to re-torque a few times when it slipped). Finally applying the nut and torquing to spec. Repeat x28 Next up I went about removing the stock cam cover baffle so I could ensure it was fully clean after drilling for stud clearance.  As the blind rivets holding the baffle on were domed I used a punch to mark the center then used 4mm drill bit to carefully drill out the rivet without going too far part the baffle. As seen in other thread here is what is inside the stock baffles I decided on M4x6mm bolts to bolt the baffle plate back on with. I used a 3.3mm drill bit with some tape to mark the depth at ~8mm. Next was to tap the threads using a cheap bunnings kit M4x0.7. With the baffle removed I also drilled out the spot welds holding in the baffle plate oil returns. Unsure whether this was the best option or if I should have cut holes in the Hypertune splash plates to allow the oil drains to still function... time will tell. I then removed the the Hypertune splash plates so I could rest the cam cover on top and use a dab of grease to mark where the studs impacted the oem cam cover baffle. The most obvious spot was on the hump from the stock mesh is held. Using this hole as an anchor I bolted the oem baffle plate back into the cam cover and lined up the Hypertune splash plate. Marked the rest of the holes for the studs and drill those out too. Total 32 holes drilled and 12 threads tapped on the passenger side cam cover alone for this bolt on part that totally clears all OEM cam covers.. Drivers side next as well as some E85 safe fuel foam to fill the space behind the behind cam cover baffle plates. oh and some lock nuts for the splash plates of course.
×
×
  • Create New...