Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm putting my C210 on a dyno for a power run this sunday with the local cruising club in Perth "West Coast Cruisers".

I want to know the max rpm the car should be revved to, i've only ever gone to 6000-6250 when driving. Is that as far as i should take it?

Specs.

Stock internal L24, unopened only for headgasket in early 1980s).

Planed head (early 1980s).

Single, double barrell hitachi carburettor (standard).

Standard airfilter and air box/intake.

NGK BP6ES spark plugs @ 0.8mm.

2inch free flowing exhaust with extractors.

Standard Gearbox, worn synchros.

Standard diff, worn pinion bearings.

195/65R14 tyres, standard 14x5.5in rims.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336855-c210-dyno/
Share on other sites

Man i was so close to dyno-ing mine last year. Keen to see what you get!

Mine has a very obvious power drop around the 5.5-6k mark. Well not a power drop, it just doesnt pull any harder. And the tappets start to sound loud around 6.5k rpm. So yea i wouldnt bother goin any more than that personally.

Post vid and dyno sheet for sure man. And have fun!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336855-c210-dyno/#findComment-5447211
Share on other sites

Im not sure you will get a choice on what it gets reved to?, the guy using the dyno will usually take it to red line so you get a power curve print out, Im not saying this is the case every time but its always been like that when ive done them.

just make sure you have plenty of oil in it id say over fill it by half a liter and it will be just fine there a strong old engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336855-c210-dyno/#findComment-5447284
Share on other sites

my car has "yellow" line from 6000 - 6500 then Red from 6000 - 8000.

I don't want the dyno dude doing an 8000, it's just too much for the car and with the stock radiator fan 4000+ sounds like an airoplane.

according to engine plate max power is made at 5600rpm anyway, so going 6500 i think would all it'd really need.

Thanks cam, does yours have aftermarket radiator fan?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336855-c210-dyno/#findComment-5447445
Share on other sites

In my bog-stock L24e auto, I scored 53kW at the wheels, so it you top this with your exhaust and manual trans, let me know!!!

at for redline, I wrecked another R30 a few months ago, kept all the goodies. But before that i too wondered what the redline was... so I spent the next 40 minutes bouncing off 7000 rpm and doing HARD shifts, generally TRYING to break it. damn thing just kept going... I ended up running out of fuel.

Pulled it all apart over the next 6 months and the insides were fine, still had the factory honing marks in the cylinders, even had factory head gasket!

bloody tough buggers.

a few minutes on the dyno wont hurt it! just keep your tyre pressures up, and clean fresh air coming in the intake.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336855-c210-dyno/#findComment-5448083
Share on other sites

i'll post up the dyno graph when i get it done.

i've got 35 psi in the above mentioned tyres, is that good?

i would suspect that the automatic was robbing power from the engine and that's good news about how high they can rev, it's just so loud from 4k +, one of the reasons I'm going twin thermo fans.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336855-c210-dyno/#findComment-5448191
Share on other sites

my car has "yellow" line from 6000 - 6500 then Red from 6000 - 8000.

I don't want the dyno dude doing an 8000, it's just too much for the car and with the stock radiator fan 4000+ sounds like an airoplane.

according to engine plate max power is made at 5600rpm anyway, so going 6500 i think would all it'd really need.

Thanks cam, does yours have aftermarket radiator fan?

It'll be fine, on a power run the dyno operator will only rev it till it starts dropping power and that will be way before it gets even close to 8000rpm probably closer to 5000-5500rpm on an L-block

Be warned if you've never had you car on a dyno before it can be worrysome watching it stand up for the first time :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336855-c210-dyno/#findComment-5448412
Share on other sites

Yea im running a thermo fan bro. The engine fan drove me nuts! It was louder than the exhaust ay.

Dont worry about tyre pressures too much. 35 should be fine seriously.

And when i put my silvia on the dyno, i had to tell the operator what rpm he did on the runs. That way he was not liable for blowing up the engine by over-revving.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336855-c210-dyno/#findComment-5449273
Share on other sites

In my bog-stock L24e auto, I scored 53kW at the wheels, so it you top this with your exhaust and manual trans, let me know!!!

at for redline, I wrecked another R30 a few months ago, kept all the goodies. But before that i too wondered what the redline was... so I spent the next 40 minutes bouncing off 7000 rpm and doing HARD shifts, generally TRYING to break it. damn thing just kept going... I ended up running out of fuel.

Pulled it all apart over the next 6 months and the insides were fine, still had the factory honing marks in the cylinders, even had factory head gasket!

bloody tough buggers.

a few minutes on the dyno wont hurt it! just keep your tyre pressures up, and clean fresh air coming in the intake.

My old 200000km old L24E MR30 auto managed 62kW at the wheels, so expect something between 50-70 depending on how tired she is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336855-c210-dyno/#findComment-5451411
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok cool, because I do have some OEM BMW options for light(er) wheels. 17x8.5 M Sport wheels are 11kg and I could put 255's on them. Maybe that's an initial test.
    • So, in the effort of pulling apart airboxes and testing enclosures to see if this aids in MAP loss at WOT I noticed: 1) The ducts up the OEM intercooler holes from the front bar help IAT drastically, whether the pod is shielded from the engine bay by an airbox missing a lid, or an airbox WITH a lid. Plus you get more induction sound without the lid. Having half the airbox (with no lid) acting as a barrier to the headers seems to help. 2) For shits and giggles I checked the TB. This was full pedal travel. This is actually full travel of the TB. Photos aren't perfect, but there was definitely an amount of play in it and it wasn't against the stop. After much swearing and adjusting the pedal, I realised that the cable is actually too long for the skyline pedal travel to fully articulate it. Having the pedal adjusted so WOT was actually hard open on WOT resulted in an idle of 3500rpm. As an aside, this was also the TPS registering at 3.1%. I removed the above to give the pedal enough travel to actually fully open the TB. I now get a satisfying 'thonk' on full open and full closed which you can hear pumping the pedal as it hits the TB stops (with the bonnet open and intake back on). Luckily for me, the screw screws into a raised metal boss under this plastic piece that is now acting as the new throttle stop. I've gained about 20mm (ish) of pedal travel and I can move it maybe a mm or two post open-thonk before it's hard against the stop. After all of this I did a bit of road tuning because a 102MM throttle is sensitive. The difference between holding an 950rpm idle and instantly stalling is about 0.4% of TPS movement. Will that help? I suppose it can't hurt. I set 'closed' point back to where it was, I can definitely feel the extra pedal travel that is needed to actually open the TB fully. But this morning I dropped the car off at Paint Jail again, so who knows when this will re-eventuate out to see if it helps with the top of the dyno hitting a ceiling.
    • Take heart that everyone else seems to have found a way. The OEM S1 indicators do slot in pretty firmly. It may simply be a case of having them sit slightly looser and nobody actually ever noticed this when attempting to remove a indicator from a JSAI bar :p
    • If the original NA ECU has a separate TCU then you are going to need to reroute wires that used to run between the trans and the TCU to the appropriate (1 to 1 equivalent) pins on the ECU. Other than that, it should work. Look up posts by @Kinkstaah on the subject.
  • Create New...