Whats Your Choice Of Oil For The $$

[Granthem]

Magnatec 10w 40

30 bucks a bottle with a filter!

[Moodles2]

Magnatec 10w 40

30 bucks a bottle with a filter!

I hope you are joking there.

[rgr34]

interesting what ppl recommend for oil....

ive noticed since switching to full synthetic valvoline syn power i have better oil pressure, according to the stock gauge....

cold start its showing more oil pressure and when hot its never goes below the 2 mark....

the oil weights i use always been the same.... is this normal?

[KiwiRS4T]

iv never hurd of it.. where can you buy it from?

thats pretty interesting. no oil leaks or blow by in my RB25.. so basically stick to a 5w-40 10w-40max.. just wondering tho australian temps are alot hotter then say Europe wouldnt this mean the higher hot rating would be better? not so much the cold rateing.. i have seen my oil temps at 120c before on track..

i might check out some Mobil Synthetic S 10W 40 seems cheaper then turbo light same temp rating. and Mobil one is European to isnt it? so im guessing its over 75%?

Buy a top quality synthetic. Work out which is the right viscosity for your car so that it doesn't overheat ( or get an oil cooler if necessary) and stop changing it so often. It will be good for at least 20,000km. Change your filter more often than that if you want.

[PIG_31]

i can recommend motul 15W50 for my 25.

a lot of bike shops sell motul if its hard to find.

[Ten Four]

Just ordered 5L of royal purple 5W40 for the soup - Harold @ Performance Hub, cant recommend enough!

[Paul SM]

ive switched over to the Penrite 10-40w, its a semi synth, will defiantly be using again for my next oil change. Price was about $45

Get onto the Penrite website and compare their tables of spec's for the oils they produce - viscosity at different temps varies enormously. I personally would only ever use Penrite Sin 0 or Sin 5 if running the car on the track, it was excellent in my modified R33 - ran cool and sweet and the oil level remained constant between changes. This was after I twice broke oil rings while using Mobil 1.

I did try Sin 10w-70 in my Stagea S2 but found that on cold mornings the high viscosity made a couple of lifters sticky for the first few seconds. I've since also discovered that Penrite recommends Sin 0 for R34 RB25DET Neo engines, including for track use.

[R33 Sleeper]

Motul 8100 Xcess, can pick it up for bout $60 for 5L at Repco when on sale, great bang for buck!

[Paul SM]

Just ordered 5L of royal purple 5W40 for the soup - Harold @ Performance Hub, cant recommend enough!

That lab test done by Street Commodores mag back in March 2006 had Royal Purple and Penrite Sin 5w-60 on their own at the top of the 18 oils tested, with virtually identical results, way ahead of any other brand tested. The Penrite, however, costs half as much.

[Ten Four]

Yeah, and the mag got shot down for incorrect testing procedures....

I've always put royal purple in all my cars, all have run brilliantly, so why change for the sake of $40 or so?

I'm a brand whore.

Edited October 7, 2010 by Ten Four

[Paul SM]

Yeah, and the mag got shot down for incorrect testing procedures....

I've always put royal purple in all my cars, all have run brilliantly, so why change for the sake of $40 or so?

I'm a brand whore.

No, I checked, the oil companies whose oils didn't do so well complained that there weren't enough tests to cover all the different attributes an oil may have - the tests that they did do were fine in themselves - nothing wrong with the methodology and the mag still stands by validity of the results. It's up to the individual to draw their own conclusions. For me the most critical one was the scar produced on the side of the roller bearing when the oil film broke. I can readily relate that one to engine wear!

[Ten Four]

"My name is Roger Miller. I do work for Red Line Oil in Victoria. One of my clients passed on your enquiry. In a rough sense this test is used for grease not oil. It is like using a quarter mile drag strip to find the "best four wheel drive on the market." A real test but totally irrelevent to what happens in the real world.The addition of friction modifiers to the test bears this out. You can take the nastiest oil on the market, add friction modifier to it and it will out-perform the best oil on the market. If you add friction modifier to a GL1 oil in this falex test you can make it exceed the results for a GL5 oil. Most general use oils contain friction modifiers to a greater or lesser degree depending on the recipe the oil manufacturer is using that particular day. So what does the falex test really test...??? "

Meh, I like my RP

[Wacky Dee]

another vote for performanceclub.com - unbeatable prices and service from Harold. Get your good oils from him, faster than trying to track it down from local autohabibs franchise and less bull.

[Moodles2]

No, I checked, the oil companies whose oils didn't do so well complained that there weren't enough tests to cover all the different attributes an oil may have - the tests that they did do were fine in themselves - nothing wrong with the methodology and the mag still stands by validity of the results. It's up to the individual to draw their own conclusions. For me the most critical one was the scar produced on the side of the roller bearing when the oil film broke. I can readily relate that one to engine wear!

Oh I guess using a test that was designed for heavy liquids such as grease, and sometimes gear oils, not engine oils. It pisses me off that people are still reading that stupid street commodores test.

This quote by a Red Line rep sums it up about that Timken test (http://forums.noria.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/616604995/m/8381065241):

"You can take the nastiest oil on the market, add friction modifier to it and it will out-perform the best oil on the market. If you add friction modifier to a GL1 oil in this falex test you can make it exceed the results for a GL5 oil. Most general use oils contain friction modifiers to a greater or lesser degree depending on the recipe the oil manufacturer is using that particular day."

[snozzle]

penrite 5w50 fully synth in my gtr, love it and the price doesnt hurt the pocket

[Birds]

Buy a top quality synthetic. Work out which is the right viscosity for your car so that it doesn't overheat ( or get an oil cooler if necessary) and stop changing it so often. It will be good for at least 20,000km. Change your filter more often than that if you want.

Even for a group 5 synthetic, 20,000km is really stretching it...you'd want them to be an awful lot of country km...

[Paul SM]

Oh I guess using a test that was designed for heavy liquids such as grease, and sometimes gear oils, not engine oils. It pisses me off that people are still reading that stupid street commodores test.

This quote by a Red Line rep sums it up about that Timken test (http://forums.noria.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/616604995/m/8381065241):

"You can take the nastiest oil on the market, add friction modifier to it and it will out-perform the best oil on the market. If you add friction modifier to a GL1 oil in this falex test you can make it exceed the results for a GL5 oil. Most general use oils contain friction modifiers to a greater or lesser degree depending on the recipe the oil manufacturer is using that particular day."

It's certainly true that you can add a friction modifier to a motor oil then do the test with the lever loading up the bearing and get a much better result. My mate's dad was a Wynn's Friction Proofing rep and I saw him do this "test" many times.

In the SC mag article that so offends you, the oils were tested as they came out of the manufacturer's container; it's not like a friction modifier was added for the test, so what are you saying? Is it that the oils that come with a friction modifier are somehow a spurious and misleading product? I suspect that the quantity of friction modifier in those various oils is far from constant, so do you feel that only the ones with a minimal amount are worth considering?

As I don't have any engineering qualifications, I'm puzzled as to why it would piss you off so much that anyone might place credence in this same test by SC mag. The results were pretty graphic - what was wrong about them? Can you suggest a more valid one by which the relative capabilities of engine oils might be compared? If you want to ignore the SC mag test, all we have is anecdotal, or worse, purely subjective evidence. I'd like to hear what information you use to form your opinions about different oils.

[Galois]

So much of this has been covered in the oils thread.

Magnatec 10w 40

30 bucks a bottle with a filter!

Don't use magnatec unless you want to test whether you can hear/feel the difference between a good oil and a bad one. I decided to use some cheap oil for a quick 1000km flush of my engine a while ago and changed after like 800km I hated it so much. The engine didn't like to rev and sounded like shit. Replaced it with some nulon "fully synthetic" I had left over and everything felt much better.

interesting what ppl recommend for oil....

ive noticed since switching to full synthetic valvoline syn power i have better oil pressure, according to the stock gauge....

cold start its showing more oil pressure and when hot its never goes below the 2 mark....

the oil weights i use always been the same.... is this normal?

Yes. The stock oil pressure gauge us pretty sh!t, but I have the same numbers you do. It all makes sense mate, the thicker the oil the more pressure the pump is putting on it in the attempt to squeeze it through the filter. As it gets thinner, the pressure goes down and the flowrate goes up.

If you want to do what most people on here swear by, get an oil that is 10w40, or 5w40, and fully synthetic (or a good semi if you change it every 5000km and don't have too many mods).

Sougi is the flavour at the moment because it's really cheap, ~$60 for 5L, and it's grade V fully synthetic, which means it'll happily last 10000km. It's the same grade as motul 300v for half the price. They also do a very good semi-synth using a mix of grades III and V for ~$30 for 5L.

Sougi is no longer being made but there is lots left over. I personally like sougi but when it runs out, and if there's no alternative, I'll be using 8100 xcess or royal purple.

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

in what situation would you use 5-40 over 10-40?

rb25det

[Moodles2]

It's certainly true that you can add a friction modifier to a motor oil then do the test with the lever loading up the bearing and get a much better result. My mate's dad was a Wynn's Friction Proofing rep and I saw him do this "test" many times.

In the SC mag article that so offends you, the oils were tested as they came out of the manufacturer's container; it's not like a friction modifier was added for the test, so what are you saying? Is it that the oils that come with a friction modifier are somehow a spurious and misleading product? I suspect that the quantity of friction modifier in those various oils is far from constant, so do you feel that only the ones with a minimal amount are worth considering?

As I don't have any engineering qualifications, I'm puzzled as to why it would piss you off so much that anyone might place credence in this same test by SC mag. The results were pretty graphic - what was wrong about them? Can you suggest a more valid one by which the relative capabilities of engine oils might be compared? If you want to ignore the SC mag test, all we have is anecdotal, or worse, purely subjective evidence. I'd like to hear what information you use to form your opinions about different oils.

All SC tests prove is, if I ever run out of grease, I can turn to a bottle of royal purple to grease up my garage door.