Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 3/11/2019 at 3:09 AM, Chris Rogers said:

you do need other parts. call the number I gave you and tell them you want them to install a cruise control for this car. tell them you have OE controls and need them installed as well.

 

this IS NOT a DIY job.

Sorry to bother you one last time.
We're about to do my mates who has a steering wheel from a 09 v36 SP so has the buttons.

I can get a 2013 G37 Steering wheel with the buttons (slightly different on/off location) and has the one extra tab and wires on the back. The one from the v36 only has the one clip for all the buttons i think.
Do you you have any idea weather the steering wheel pictured below from a 2013 would be ok to utilise the OEM buttons?

s-l1600.jpg

Looks like it might not. The G37's seem to have 2 clips and everything i find on a v36 Seem to merge into the one clip.
I think using Part number 25550JK15A i could just replace that centre unit and the wiring on my current wheel.  

  • 1 month later...

I pulled the center out of a fair few of those. I got to a point that I found the OE number for that bit and the correct controls (of which there are 3 types.)
no longer have the part numbers handy.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...