Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im after a second opinion I think ive put the cambelt out by a tooth or something. Motor turns ova like a dream. fired upp once but run like a dog for about 3 seconds . Everytime after i stop turning it ova it does a really sad sounding backfire .

sweet . if its a tooth out do you rekon there will be any damage ?

No it won't damage it.

Neither will is stop it from running, make sure your not 180 out on the crank if you have recently replaced the belt or something.

Sounds more like a spark problem to me but.

Edited by James_03
No it won't damage it.

Neither will is stop it from running, make sure your not 180 out on the crank if you have recently replaced the belt or something.

Sounds more like a spark problem to me but.

Sweet as yea checked number 1 piston and its up the top when its top dead center. Good to hear there shouldnt be any damage. It lowkey fired up once but run like a dog. I checked the belt and the right camshaft was like 2 out i think . If the cambelt tensioner that you move is a couple mm out would that effect it. Motor was running before hand Ive just changed the blocks because the rings went in the old one . Everything seems to be sparking finie. checked all the wiring to make sure i didnt miss anything.

what if its opening a vlave when the piston is all the way up.

probly snap or bend a valve. Its still turns over sweet no odd noises inside yet

Put a ratchet on the front balancer bolt and turn it over with your hand to make sure it doesn't hit any valves. I accidentally put my timing belt on 180 degrees out once and the pistons bent some valves, it didn't hit that much but it was enough to tweak the valves so they didn't seal properly.

Put a ratchet on the front balancer bolt and turn it over with your hand to make sure it doesn't hit any valves. I accidentally put my timing belt on 180 degrees out once and the pistons bent some valves, it didn't hit that much but it was enough to tweak the valves so they didn't seal properly.

yea still turns over sweet with a rachet the number 1 piston is at the top when all 3 marks are aline is that right? . You rekon give it a compression test to see if if ne arnt sealing. lol myt b over before i get to go for a roll

sounds like what happened in my fathers RB30 EH Holden..

Ended up being the coils firing in the wrong order...

Do the Basics.. check u have fuel.. If u have disconnected them, check u have the feed and return around the right way.. (i hooked them up the wrong way.. it was a pain)

check spark... and your timing is all good by the sounds..

check that the crank angle sensor still has the key way in it and is lined up correctly, also when u pull it out to check it make sure the CAS shaft isnt broken, my old gtr did this too me when i rebuilt it, it happened because i didnt use the perfect sized spacers when running it without the top timing cover

check that the crank angle sensor still has the key way in it and is lined up correctly, also when u pull it out to check it make sure the CAS shaft isnt broken, my old gtr did this too me when i rebuilt it, it happened because i didnt use the perfect sized spacers when running it without the top timing cover

yea algud ended up getting it going. there was a pin in one of the injectors broken and weak spark. But sussed it all . Started off on 5 pound then I raised it to 12 psi and it lasted all of 5 minutes . blew the head gasket it was only a cheap job of trademe. Going for a gtr 1 this time. Spend the money get the results youre expecting lol

Does it have a base map to run it? If not I'm not surprised it doesn't start, probably massively overfueling?

Nah no bass map just a 260kw tune on 14 psi . got it going in the end but just blew the head gasket for some reason. Was only cheap hundy dola 1 of trademe. Going for a genuine gtr one this time.

check the timing with a timing light, also check all 6 spark plugs to make sure they are all firing and not wet with fuel..

Jarrod

yea did that they had a pretty weak spark which i eliminated just was using a real shit earth. got it going for about 5 min then blew the head gasket some how . think it was just cuase it a cheapy . gona use a gtr one this time.

If all the marks are lined up then you're valve timing is fine.

yea m8 it was lol i was starting to wonder if i was cross eyed but it was bang on

Nah no bass map just a 260kw tune on 14 psi . got it going in the end but just blew the head gasket for some reason. Was only cheap hundy dola 1 of trademe. Going for a genuine gtr one this time.

Tuned on a dyno or was it an existing tune?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
×
×
  • Create New...