Jump to content
SAU Community

ABS Issues Survey!! (Please Poll your results)  

30 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Hey people,

I am currently having ABS issues with the unit leaking my brake fluid, I am running this poll just to see how many of you out there are suffering from the same issues and how bad they are?

I've also added in responses where people can post whether they've fixed the problem by replacing with new, used or removal.

I would like to know what people have done to try and fix the problem so post up what you've done and also post up if you're running brake upgrades like bigger rotors/callipers, master cylinder stoppers, braided lines etc.

cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337026-abs-issues-survey/
Share on other sites

nope it is great

no loocking up (unless your a shitty driver lol )

No defects all positive - street car

so no unwanted attention to the area where the unit should be?

just to clarify, the brakes will only really lock up if you hit them hard and very fast?

i've only locked brakes in other car's when i was a P-plater right before i hit something, haha! so i guess it was just bad driving,

first : a little bit of screaching around a corner so i slammed the brakes and locked them and spun out.

other times i hit the brakes hard, obviously wet weather doesnt help either or bad/bald tyres

Original unit leaked badly, got another very clean looking one and it leaks a bit. IMO ABS is a good thing. On the street you will encounter different conditions - its not all about driver skill.

Mine was fine for a year i have had the car then all of a sudden it started leaking and i have to top it up very regulary. Recently purchased 2 very good second hand units so will replace it with one and keep the other as a spare. I priced a new unit from nissan and it was around the $2700 mark

Had the same problem with the ABS unit leaking,removed it dismantled ,acquired all the seals, then rebuilt it ,put it back on the car bleed ABS then all brakes,have'nt had a weep since. :D

Where did you get the seals from? Are they just generic o-rings or the real custom seals?

Had the same problem with the ABS unit leaking,removed it dismantled ,acquired all the seals, then rebuilt it ,put it back on the car bleed ABS then all brakes,have'nt had a weep since. :down:
Where did you get the seals from? Are they just generic o-rings or the real custom seals?

i would like to know this too!

where did you get all the seals from?

  • 1 month later...

I have now removed my ABS, the pedal feel is much better and I'm more confident when braking

I also went for a few upgrades when I removed my ABS, I installed some R34 GTR Brembo brakes with some QFM A1RM's all round, a Brake Master Cylinder Brace and Custom Braided Lines.

The GTR pulls up really well, I have only slightly locked one wheel while driving and it was due to the bumpy road, but overall having no ABS isnt really that much to worry about, it just takes some getting used to and knowledge of what to do when the brakes lock and to know where the threshold is.

Will post up pics of the new lines and brake system after the weekend.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...