Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For those who have bought R34 GTRs, can you tell me your experience with buying local or importing?

I like how there is a large selection of cars to be imported, but the only problem is you can't get them mechanically inspected (e.g compression tested).

Do you find this is a big factor?

Say you're going to spend $40k to $50k on an R34 GTR.

Anyone here who has imported a car and it didn't arrive as you'd hoped?

Any stories/feedback is welcome :P

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337052-buying-an-r34-gtr-local-or-import/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

In my case, the first R34 I imported was ok but wasn't what I was expecting. Mechanically was great but there was too much underbody rust for my liking so I bought another one that was sold locally and more importantly, I could inspect myself. There's so many examples for sale in the country you'd be silly not to look here first before making your decision to import.

Thanks for the feedback. Only problem is that I'm looking for a blue one which seem hard to come by in my price range. Most are either silver, black or white. I've been looking at importing and I think locally is actually cheaper, but importing has a lot more to offer.

  • 1 month later...
In my case, the first R34 I imported was ok but wasn't what I was expecting. Mechanically was great but there was too much underbody rust for my liking so I bought another one that was sold locally and more importantly, I could inspect myself. There's so many examples for sale in the country you'd be silly not to look here first before making your decision to import.

Exactly.

I've worked in the Jap Import industry and NO way would I buy a car for myself out of Japan based on auction description and a few shitty photographs.

I'd much prefer to see, touch, feel any car of that value, especially perfomance cars like the GTR.

In my case, the first R34 I imported was ok but wasn't what I was expecting. Mechanically was great but there was too much underbody rust for my liking so I bought another one that was sold locally and more importantly, I could inspect myself. There's so many examples for sale in the country you'd be silly not to look here first before making your decision to import.

spot on. look here first and if you really can't find a suitable car then import but just like in australia you have to pay the right money for the good cars 90% of the time. 10% of the time good cars can be had cheaply both here and in japan for various reasons but the majority of the time: if the price is cheap. the car is cheap.

and funnily enough bayside blue is sought after both here and in japan so if they are out of your price range here they most likely will be to import too. I wouldn't worry too much about colour. just buy the best condition car you can afford. silver is the bargain colour and my personal favourite. actually black is probably even less popular as you loose a lot of the shape in it.

^^^ That was my initial thinking as well as blue was the paramount decision on purchasing the first car. Only to realise what a stupid mistake I made afterwards. But that doesn't mean you won't be able to import a good one. You need to have faith and trust your broker and make sure you ask as many questions as possible. 2 out of 3 cars I've imported have been spectacular.

Don't be put off from importing but at the same time don't forget about cars that are available here as well. And don't buy the cheapest one out there as chances are that it's a lemon.

guys sorry to point out .. the first few posts i was like "okay okay they'll cotton on shortly"

but it's stil going!

guys - OP was 16 Sep 2010, 04:57 PM

thread starter hasn't been seen since he made the thread.. i have an inking by now he's either:

1) made his decision whether or not to import

2) bought a GTR

3) bought another car and sold it and bought another one since

4) moved to Vietnam

=)

guys sorry to point out .. the first few posts i was like "okay okay they'll cotton on shortly"

but it's stil going!

guys - OP was 16 Sep 2010, 04:57 PM

thread starter hasn't been seen since he made the thread.. i have an inking by now he's either:

1) made his decision whether or not to import

2) bought a GTR

3) bought another car and sold it and bought another one since

4) moved to Vietnam

=)

actually, i am here :happy: i have been looking at local GTRs for a few months now. a few interest me, but the price isn't right.

there's a blue one, which is advertised as a 2000 vspec but i've checked the VIN and it's a 1999 non-vspec. owner still wants $52k for it though, which is way too much for it in my opinion. i dunno why he's selling it as a vspec, maybe he mistakenly bought it as one?

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...id=10F3995EFE23

then there's a 2001 vspec2, but it's pearl white. $54k. still holding out on it as i really want a blue one.

i've been looking a bit on japanese auction sites. most of the GTRs I see are either black, white or silver. not many blue ones or even purple ones go through. ideally i'd love a blue one, followed by a purple one.

guess the search continues...

  • 1 month later...

Ive been looking for a GTR for quite sometime now. I will say it might be better to import one. Find yourself a good broker like IronChef and just wait for the right one to come up. Most of time you will get bonus item such as ECU. Local seller will never give you the price that you want and just because you can see and feel the car that doesnt mean you have to pay premium price.

Currently looking for a R34 vsII. Found these 2 cars just wondering if anyone can tell me roughly what they would cost to get on the road here in Australia.

1) http://www.tradecarview.com/used_car/japan%20car/nissan/skyline+gt-r/3840385/

2)http://www.tradecarview.com/used_car/japan%20car/nissan/skyline+gt-r/6117832/

Ta

about $82,000 for the first one. around $78,000 for the second one.

I have to be honest though, for $80K on road I'd be looking at a Vspec II NUR in exceptional condition. with a 5 mil yen budget that is certainly obtainable. Those two cars look nice but they are priced into the stratosphere.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Add to this... What blew the fuse too? If a circuit feeding power to the coils was blown, how were the coils even functioning to let the car start?   There is some seriously wrong wiring in that car for certain, and I'm betting there is some melted cables somewhere, but I can't explain the 30v either, unless there is something back feeding on that power line that has a dodgy power system and the electronics are giving it hell.
    • This is typically the case with such threads. What I cannot quite get my head around is where a reading above 12V (or 13.8 or 14.x or whatever the maximum achievable voltage might actually be in that specific car) comes from. 25V or 30V should be completely impossible. There's no way to create it. Hard to answer that question. It will literally depend on whether the current tune relies on the values as set. I'd guess it probably does. ie, the real base pressure being 49 means that the flowrate through the injectors will be higher than if it was 43.5. The Haltech's modelling should be handling that, but because it thinks the pressure is only 43.5, then..... I dunno. It should be thinking that it will be injecting less fuel with each pulse duration than is actually happening. So, something is definitely not-as-it-should-be, but specifically what that is is beyond my abilities to imagine. Someone like Dose who spends more time with Haltechs might have a better thought.
    • Bit of a late reply here as me and my wife have been really busy with new born twins. I finally got these issues fixed and it was something really stupid that caused all of this 🤦‍♂️... After alot of mucking around with trying to figure out what is causing these issues, I back probed one of the R35 coils on the power 12v supply, with the engine running it got 25v! And I thought, hang on..., this isn't normal. Measured my battery with the engine running to check for over charge from the alternator and it wasn't that. So then I dissconnected the R35 PRP coil harness and backprobed the power supply on the engine loom where the ignition coil harness connects, with the key on ignition (engine off) it measured 30v! So then I had to trace where that high voltage was coming from and it lead me to the brown relay "ECM & IGN coil relay" inside the cabin next to the ECU on the passanger wall. This relay feeds power to the ECM and ignition coils. Tried swapping it with another same relay. nah still 30v.. coming from the 2 green/white wires in the brown relay. So then I set my multi meter to the beep continuity mode and probed every fuse on the fuse box inside the cabin to try and find this high voltage power source. Wasn't any of the fuses inside the cabin. Then probed all the fuses in the engine bay and BAM, got my power source that was a 10AMP fuse called "ENG CONT". Pulled the fuse out, and what do you know... it was blown. 🤦‍♂️  So then I quickly replaced it with a new 10AMP fuse, started the car and yeah haha [insert extreme face palm]... The RPM blimping thing went away, car idles smoothly now like what it was before. I swear! I checked all my fuses with my test light twice before I created this forum thread. I think, maybe because one side of that faulty 10A fuse lit up on my test light, I must have thought it was still ok and not blown. But now I know to have both sides light up on the test light when checking fuses... I hate diagnosing electricals.... I'd take mechanical problems over electrical problems any day🤣. Drove the car around my suburb with the engine up to operating temp and it runs fine like before. However, I notice that my fuel pressure is still at 49psi. So I'm thinking this must be normal for my system as I've upgraded the stock fuel pump to a Walbro 255L/h with a constant 12v mod.  But anyway, I'm just glad to have my daily back on the road! Thanks everyone for the replies on this thread, all sorted now! One thing I want to ask you tuner guys, my base fuel pressure on the haltech main settings are set to 43.5psi from default (my tuner must have not checked the fuel pressure maybe when tuning my car?). Do I set it to what it actually is idling on at 49psi? Or just leave it ("if it aint broke, don't fix it/leave it")?  
    • The max they would go for me is 50.
    • That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
×
×
  • Create New...