Jump to content
SAU Community

Is It Worth Stroking

turboedsloth

By turboedsloth,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

turboedsloth Grand Master

turboedsloth

Posted
Posted

Is it worth stroking a 25 to 2.7 with the 26 crank rods pistons and etc or would it be more feasible to just build a 26?

What would be the advantages and disadvantages using the 25?

Car is a 32 sedan and will hopefully be used for a bit of circuit and road use.

Am open to all advice. AAANNNNDDDD GO...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337080-is-it-worth-stroking/
Share on other sites
StealthX Veteran

StealthX

Posted
Posted

stroked 2.7 RB25 would be good, but remember (unless you use a neo 34 head) it's still gonna have hydraulic lifters, and wont be as rev happy/efficient as a 26 head.

That said both options make great power, there's really nothing to win one over the other...

considered a 26/30 or 25/30?

GTS-t VSPEC Grand Master

GTS-t VSPEC

Posted
Posted
stroked 2.7 RB25 would be good, but remember (unless you use a neo 34 head) it's still gonna have hydraulic lifters, and wont be as rev happy/efficient as a 26 head.

That said both options make great power, there's really nothing to win one over the other...

considered a 26/30 or 25/30?

Mine revs to 9000rpm, hydraulic lifters and Tomei springs :dry:

StealthX Veteran

StealthX

Posted
Posted
Mine revs to 9000rpm, hydraulic lifters and Tomei springs :dry:

Hmm fair enough!

I stand corrected :D

That is sorta true as a general rule though right? Solid lifters are more efficient and more rev happy than hydraulic types?

GTS-t VSPEC Grand Master

GTS-t VSPEC

Posted
Posted
Hmm fair enough!

I stand corrected :dry:

That is sorta true as a general rule though right? Solid lifters are more efficient and more rev happy than hydraulic types?

Yes, and you can get a solid lifter conversion kit to make the RB25's solid, like the Neo's, but for the cost it wasn't worth it. Instead we opted for the valve springs, and hasn't missed a beat. To be honest those, on most engine setups I've seen the engine is out of efficiency before 9k.

turboedsloth Grand Master

turboedsloth

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've considered a couple of combos but for me the 2.7 stands out a little more because its different. The donor motor is a 33 series 1 as far as i can tell. The combo i'm looking at is

34 crank

nitto rods

JE Pistons

nitto oil pump

272 cams with springs

sard 750's

gt35 with 6 boobs and whateva else is required

jarrod83 Community Regular

jarrod83

Posted
Posted

rb30 bottom end is hard to pass up, alot cheaper than stroking the rb25 and if anything stupid goes wrong the bottom end is alot easier to replace. Wont need such a large duration cam as youll have more torque earlier and wont need to revv as much... i find my gt35r is still a bit laggy for my liking on the 3litre, but heaps better than the 25.. a good 700rpm, if you can wait until the end of the year ill have mine rebuilt and back on the road.. can take you for a spin and see if you like it.

Jarrod

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

+1 for the 30DET, you're rebuilding anyway so go splash $100 on an RB30E, buy pistons and rods to suit and longnose the crank, use your 25 head and the cams you were planning on. Go the GT35R with .82 (minimum) or 1.06 housing.

If you go the 30 make sure you let Kyle know it's a 30 in a 32gtst so the manifold will fit. He'll also want you to get a 50mm gate.

turboedsloth Grand Master

turboedsloth

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Bart, have you got a VQ in a car in your shop? will call past and have a sticky beak if you do

And Bubba by longnose the crank is that the collar you stick on it to suit the oil pump?

Edited by turboedsloth
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Yeah I mean put a crank collar on so you have the long oil pump drive like 33/34gtr cranks.

Personally I'm welding the snout of my crank and machining back to suit my specific gears as opposed to using a generic collar that's toleranced to suit a variety of gears. Some people don't like the idea of welding the crank though so it's an each to their own thing. The reason I'm going down that path is that I firmly believe the common destruction of gears is due to the poor tolerancing between drive and gears.

jarrod83 Community Regular

jarrod83

Posted
Posted

i have the 0.82 exhaust housing on the gt35r

i quite like your idea there bubba.. i had a crank collar fitted on my car and my oil pump failed in a very strange way... the outside gear ended up in about 10 bits, i am hoping to rectify the problem with a better balance, harmonic balancer and a billet pump, i might have to check the clearance between the collar and the pump.. one of the engineers i took my pump to said it looked like there wasnt enough clearance axially for the gears.

Jarrod

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 Diff oil

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • GTSBoy
      Short shifter r34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Diff oil

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
    • Duncan
      Short shifter r34

      By Duncan · Posted

      How much does the shifter move when the car is in gear with the engine off? If it is more than about 1cm you need to replace your shifter bush. Your shifts will just get crunchier, not faster, with a short shifter unless you also rebuild the whole box
×
×
  • Create New...