Jump to content
SAU Community

Is It Worth Stroking

turboedsloth

By turboedsloth,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

snozzle Mentor

snozzle

Posted
Posted (edited)

oil pump failure like that can be from a combination of two things, tight clearances, perfhaps too tight + oil too thick

what oil were you using?

haha bubbas answer to all problems in life is a rb30det conversion :P

Edited by snozzle
turboedsloth Grand Master

turboedsloth

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sounds like a pretty good answer to a problem haha. Scored a 30 bottom end today for 50 beans looks to be in good condition tho, might be the way to go and tuck the 25 under the bench somewhere.

Is anyone around here using the Nitto oil pump and other nitto gear?

jarrod83 Community Regular

jarrod83

Posted
Posted

nah not yet but im planning to buy a nitto oil pump.

Was using motul 8100 5w40, measured my crank collars thickness on the flats to be 41.1mm .. and from the jigsaw puzzle of a oil pump, the gap is about 42mm on the flats

where did you score the block from?? my blocks only good for 40 thou now since is has some scratches in the bores.. chasing a new crank/block if anyone knows anyone that has one..

Jarrod

Char Experienced

Char

Posted
Posted

anyway u look at it comes down to how much $$ u got, rb30s arent as cheap as ppl lay out (ask my wallet)

it depends if u wanna do it right or if u wanna do it dodgy n replace ur 30e bottom end 1ce a year.

if u do go down that path come buy an rb25 head off me i have 2 spares

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted
anyway u look at it comes down to how much $$ u got, rb30s arent as cheap as ppl lay out (ask my wallet)

it depends if u wanna do it right or if u wanna do it dodgy n replace ur 30e bottom end 1ce a year.

if u do go down that path come buy an rb25 head off me i have 2 spares

The fact that it's an RB30 doesn't really have anything to do with cost unless it's going in a 4WD.

Rebuilding costs are rebuilding costs, if you're building an engine for a RWD application then the difference between building a 25 you have or turning it in to a 30 is $50-100 for the RB30E.

If you're putting it in a 4WD (GTS4/GTR) then you're up for the cost of the sump adapter.

It's the actually rebuilding in general that people don't realise costs time and money :)

Char Experienced

Char

Posted
Posted (edited)

agree and disagree

good find with the 30 bottom end!

i love how ppl say "u can find rb30's for $50!" took me 3 months to find one n cost alot more than $50.-wreckers even wanted $750 for a 30e in a written off VL!

if ur going to build/forge go 30det over 2.7ltr but yeah there are things to consider: compression, height, modifying the head, vct etc, head gasket, engine not licensed etc etc etc did my head in for about 6months, glad its almost over! :)

Edited by Char
turboedsloth Grand Master

turboedsloth

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The wreckers down here wanted a lot for a bare block, but there are that many dardy people down here it wouldnt take much to find one. Why wouldnt you be able to licence the 30 engine?

The RTA do that 15% engine increase dont they?

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

30s can be found cheap, just gonna hunt around. i ended up buying a complete s3 31 and selling a few bits off it, made money from it and got a good motor for free.

if you can do all the work yourself (apart from head welding and machining) and do your research it wont cost more than a few hundred for the actual motor

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I just got to work and skimmed through 61508 and 61511. I was surprised the CSA adopted both, but neither are enforced. To recap what I read, it states that in a perfect world, they should be segregated but they acknowledge that this is not industry standard and clearly mention that they allow mixing of safety and non-safety. 61511 also mentions software segregation like AB does in their safety PLC's.   Now if only I could go back to control, let alone safety over comms. In my current line of work, we're only allowed monitoring and basic control over comms. Everything critical must still be hard wired as much as possible. 
    • TurboTapin
      RB25DET Solid lifter conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • KKaplumbaa
      SR20 to cefiro

      By KKaplumbaa · Posted

      I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • MBS206
      The Cool Tools Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • KKaplumbaa
      SR20 to cefiro

      By KKaplumbaa · Posted

      SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...