Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You can pickup an R33 GTS-t for $18k, you can also pickup an RB26DETT for about $7k so thats $25k and you got a RWD Skyline with the power of a GTR. A decent condition R33 GTR = $40k, you see what i'm talking about ? ?

With all the support systems though, it will still cost. If you are chasing around 300rwkw it can be done with an RB25 - changing the engine will only be an added cost, as you will still need all the associated support systems.

If you do go down the replace engine line though, just to go a little out of left field, RIPS is running 10s in a R32 GTS4 which hasnt been hugely modified, but has a 3L conversion. He sells rebuilt 3L conversions for around 3.5K landed in aust (not sure about duty and gst), but that is a whole lot cheaper than an RB26, and will easily support over 300rwkw with much better torque due to its stoke and the extra capacity.

If your going to go down the replace motor path, (i dont think its required, RB25DET is capable of those times)... then why not get an R32.

Cheaper initial price, slightly less weight, and has same engine options, only you will need to bin the gearbox as well.

I think the general consensus here is each engine/car combo is more than capable on the std internals with good support systems and good tuning, including suspension.

You can make power without all that, but be prepared to wear a bill if you go beyond the threshold and get detonation. It only takes that one time, then it is worth the good rebuild but you will still need the support systems and tuning.

Well a 11Sec is my goal as well and is easily achieveable with stock internals. The secret to using stock internals is more fuel!.

Here is my plan of attack.

R33

RB25L Engine / RB30 Bottom End (adds more torque and better turbo spoolup)

Greddy or Custom Plenum

Z32 AFM with Intercooler Piping

Power FC

T04E HighFlow (A/R 0.60)

HKS Cams

Ogura Flywheel

Blitz BOV (High Rev Pressure Release)

6 x 550cc Injectors

040 Bosch Fuel Pump

BRK7E Spark Plugs (copper holds boost better than any plug on the market)

Some good clutch

After all these major mods you will be in the low 12 / high 11 sec bracket.

hope this heaps, maybe ive missed something but feel free to add to the list.

cheers

ak

i've run a 12.98... now not 11 i know, far from it.

But that was on street tyres... 225's with a 2.1 60ft.

A very poor suspenson setup, the R31 IRS is a shocker for drag racing the way i have it at the moment.

And the driver aint the best :D

Not making excuses, just saying that times can be better, anyways...

I'll bet that if i had Nitto's/slicks and suspension (suspension plays a goos part)

Then then my times would be fast approaching a low 12 run. That was with 203rwkw on 13psi (non standard turbo)

My 31 weighs in pretty much the same as a 33 does so weight is the same.

With approx 240rwkw i'm confident that on slicks it would come very close to high 11's.

I've also seen RB30et's in VL's... yes they do have a weight advantage compared to a 33.

With approx 220-230rwkw break consistent very high 11's with slicks.

But are you after HIGH 11's... or Mid-low 11's.

because mid-low 11's IMO, your talking a lot more $$$.

Hi rev, Wilson did a 1.45 on Nittos, Munroe did a 1.48 and Lee did a 1.6.  I've got plenty more examples if you like.  None of those were in Perth though, in fact I can't find any decent radial tyre times from Perth.  Must be the track.

I think I might have been hasty in my generalisation. I just seem to see and hear of alot of rear wheel drive car owners unable to extract decent (for semi slick) 60ft's from the Nitto's considering how expensive they are compared to the other brands.

I've seen low 1.5's out of BFG's in rearwheel drive only cars with very modest power to weight ratio's ,unlike keir and munro's monsters :P, and fairly average suspension. For the money I still think the traditional BFG and Mickey T's offer the best bang for buck and overall performance (not sure if the nitto's last longer for road driving tho' so that might be a bonus).

Hey guys thanks for all the comments and info...

After a short think about it i am thinking if i was to go ahead i would be aiming at a more realistic time of mid to high 12's.

I really had no intention to replace the internals and money is of the esscence...

Thanks again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...