Stagea Rs4 Ecu, One Of My Pins Is Missing On Ecu, Wrong Pinout?

[godzilla_753]

Hi,

Im from the US, i bought a front clip from an importer and it turned out to be a rb25det NEO engine mated to a rb20det tranny installed into r33 gt model (base), so it has already been messed with in terms of wiring. Either way im trying to wire the engine up and having looked at the pinouts, pin 31 seems to be missing from my ecu plug/loom.

It is the pin identified as "ignition power supply" im guessing this is what is powered up so that the ecu can send current to the coilpacks. in either case, I dont have this wire in the plug at all, as in there is no wire to splice into or anything, nothing in the clip that goes into the ecu at all. Doesnt look like it was forced out either as ive heard those little pins are hard to pull out.

now im thinking 2 things:

1) I have a different ecu that doesnt follow the c34 stagea series 2 pinout, and i need to find the correct pinout. here is the pinout if anyone wants to make sure im using the right one:

https://doc-04-2c-docs.googleusercontent.co...c3uc8mraipalfuu

2) The wire was pulled out for some reason, and i should just insert my own wire in there and power up pin 31 on the ecu so that my car will start.

now written on the ecu is

TM in big black letters, underneath which is written:

[23710 0V800]

[A56-K43 L04] [3x26]

can anyone give me some advice?

also can one of you guys crack open their kick panel and see if there is a wire going to pin 31? and if there is, what color it is?

much appreciated

[KiwiRS4T]

I don't have my car here at the moment but I have a pinout chart that lists pin 31 as G/O (presumably green/orange).

[kjb_r33]

That is the correct ECU for a WC34 08/98 to 08/99 with a manual.

I am currently fitting a 3 bar map sensor, so i have my ecu sitting on floor. 31 has nothing in it. 42 (next to it) is open as well, pin 24 (other side of 31) has a green wire.

[godzilla_753]

That is the correct ECU for a WC34 08/98 to 08/99 with a manual.

I am currently fitting a 3 bar map sensor, so i have my ecu sitting on floor. 31 has nothing in it. 42 (next to it) is open as well, pin 24 (other side of 31) has a green wire.

ohh i see, is it green and orange? or just green? after you re install the ecu, mind checking with a test light for which wires have power to the ecu? (switched ignition and constant 12v). on the pinout I have, pin 24 is listed as "ignition switch signal" while 31 is listed as "ignition power supply"

i dont understand why our pin 31 doesnt have anything, ive looked at a few different pinouts and none show pin 31 missing.

would really appreciate the help, my whole swap is hung up on this stupid ecu wiring

Edited September 18, 2010 by godzilla_753

[godzilla_753]

I have power to the injectors so they are presumably sending fuel into the cylinders, (will confirm by cranking and pulling my plug out to see if its wet), but my injectors are completely dead, all 3 wires. Is there a way to give them power bypassing the ecu? or does the ecu send the signal for them to pulse in time.

[chef_stagea]

Pinout Table

Pin Wire Description 101 W Fuel Injector # 1 102

103 W/R Fuel Injector # 3 104 L/Y A/C ? 105 W/G Fuel Injector # 2 106

107

108 L Boost Solenoid 109 W/G ECU Relay 110 Y Fuel Injector # 5 111 O F3-44 112 W/Pu Fuel Injector # 6 113

114 W/B Fuel Injector # 4 115

116 B/R A/T Control Box 117 Lg/R VTC Solenoid 118 Br/Y Oxygen Sensor 119

120

121

122

123

124 B/R A/T Control Box 1 B/R Ignition Signal # 1 2 R/W Ignition Signal # 5 3 R Ignition Signal # 3 4 O ECU Relay 5 W/B Tachometer Signal 6

7 R/G Ignition Signal # 6 8 R/Y Ignition Signal # 2 9 R/L Ignition Signal # 4 10

11 G/B IAC Valve 12

13 B/P Fuel Pump Relay? F3-17 14 G/R black connector 15

16

17 Gy/L F3-5 18

19

20 GY/R F3-4 Start Signal ? 21 P F3-19 A/C Signal 22 Y/B F3-2 Neutral Position Switch 23 R/L Throttle Position Sensor (ground?) 24 W/L Injector Power F3-33 25 B Ground 26

27

28

29 Y/R F3-39 Vehicle Speed Sensor 30 R/L F3-12 TPS (Secondary) 31 G/O F3-8 TCS Signal 32 B Ground 33 G Cooling Fan Relay (black w/ knock) 34

35

36

37 L/B TPS 38

39 Y/Pu Power Steering Oil Pressure Switch 40

41

42

43 Br/W Ground 44 G CAS/ Ground 45 G CAS/ Ground 46 R CAS 47 R Boost Pressure Sensor 48 L/B TPS (Ground)? 49 B/W Ignition Switch? 50 W Oxygen Sensor? 51 L Oxygen Sensor? 52

53 R A/T Control Box 54 O/L MAFS Signal 55 W/L MAFS Ground 56 Pu Engine Coolant Tempereature Sensor 57 G/Y to black connector 58

59

60

61

62 W Knock Sensor 63 W Knock Sensor 64

65

66

67 B/W ECU Power 68

69

70

71 P/L F3-11 72 B/W ECU Power 73

74

75 Br/Y A/T Control Box, F3-1 76 Y Data Link Conn 77

78 G/O to grey connector 79 R/B A/T Control Box, cut wire (TPS) 80 W/B Power Supply (Back-up)

[godzilla_753]

so is this the correct pinout for the 0V800 and 0V801 ecu's?

if im reading this correctly the pins that need

12V:

109-ecu relay

4 -ecu relay

20 -start signal

24 -injector power

49 -ignition switch (this is what powers coilpacks?)

67 -ecu power

72 -ecu power

80 -back up ecu power

ground:

25 -ground

32 -ground

43 -ground

44 -cas ground

45 -cas ground

48 -tps ground

55 -maf ground

What are these for?

111-F3-44

71 -F3-11

78 -to gray connector

57 -to black connector

17 -F3-5

mind you im swapping the engine into an s13 hatchback, if someone can double check what i have written ill go and give power/ground to those pins. as of right now i have injector pulse, but no ignition, so is pin 49 the one i need to give 12v switched ignition to?

thanks

[godzilla_753]

I tried giving pin 49 12v switched and nothing. i also seperated the maf, tps, and cas ground wires and grounded them directly to chassis and still nothing. I dont think my ignitors are firing.

also, i have 2 relays near the ecu, a brown one, and a blue one, can anyone tell me what they are for? my blue one has one pin getting power but the rest were cut (by previous owner).

Edited September 19, 2010 by godzilla_753

[chef_stagea]

go back a step... when was the car last running and whats actualy been done to make it not work?

[Daleo]

go back a step... when was the car last running and whats actualy been done to make it not work?

First post says it was bought as a front cut, and it appears to be a bit of a bitsa.

[godzilla_753]

yeah car was bought as half cut, and it had already been swapped, so wiring isnt 100% original. Ive got power to the coilpacks now, but what tells them to fire? the CAS?

none of my engine ancillaries are powered up, as in the o2 sensor, CAS, MAF, AAC, etc.

everything is dead, is there some common wire that powers up these components?

[QWK32]

I tried giving pin 49 12v switched and nothing. i also seperated the maf, tps, and cas ground wires and grounded them directly to chassis and still nothing. I dont think my ignitors are firing.

also, i have 2 relays near the ecu, a brown one, and a blue one, can anyone tell me what they are for? my blue one has one pin getting power but the rest were cut (by previous owner).

all diagrams i have say that pin 49 is the rear defogger relay signal. the two relays near the ecu, one will be the ECM/IGN relay (the one that powers the ecu, coils, maf, sensors, etc) and the other will be the fuel pump relay, from memory the brown one is the fuel pump one but i'm not 100% sure.

have a look at this diagram below and see if it helps you figure it out. don't worry about the FPCM (fuel pump control module) ad dropping resistor, they are located in the rear of the car and most people wire them out anyway to help aftermarket pumps. the "ECM & IGN coil relay" at the top of the diagram is the one you need to sort out, either reconnect it or find the wires that are supposed to go to it and apply 12v to the ones that go to the coils and sensors.

R34_Manual_ECU_Diagram.pdf

just a few other notes on the list you posted:

PIN 4 isn't a 12v feed, it is a ground supplied by the ecu to switch the ECM relay.

PIN 109 and 80 are constant power

PIN 24 67 and 72 are a switched 12v feed with the ignition (usually by the ECM relay), its not a constant 12v

PIN 20 is your cranking signal, its not a constant

PIN 43 isn't grounded by you, the ecu grounds it for you

got these just off the linked diagram

PIN 111 is FPCM

PIN 71 is stop lamp

PIN 57 is refrigerant pressure

PIN 78 is auxillery fan

PIN 17 Engine check light

[godzilla_753]

thanks, im gonna redo some of it, ill get back with results

[godzilla_753]

ive been getting into it again, and i got it started but the only thing is since my pin 31 on the ecu isnt seeing 12v from the ignition relay the brown relay isnt triggering. If i ground the relay myself it clicks and i am able to start the car.

It all comes back to that pin 31, has anyone got an idea on why my loom doesnt have it? can anyone check and see what color they have at pin 31? maybe someone pulled mine out and cut it, it could be just hanging there in the loom. If thats the case i can re insert it in the ecu plug and go on with my life.

if anyone can please check the wire color on pin 31 i would really appreciate it.

edit: i just realized its already been said in the thread. either way im still hung up, if 31 isnt the pin that sees 12v from the ignition relay then what is? It was said that i have a 8/98 to 8/99 wc34 manual ecu, does anyone have a pinout for this specific ecu?

Edited October 4, 2010 by godzilla_753

[KiwiRS4T]

My pinout diagram says Pin 31 Ignition power supply (G/O)

It also says pin 24 Ignition switch signal (W/L)

Try putting a meter on pin 24 and see how it relates to the ignition switch position.

Otherwise can you not use a meter or probe to find a wire at the back of the ignition switch and run it directly to the relay? Less than ideal but just to make your car drivable.

Can you try replacing the relay? I am not really sure which relay you are talking about but I have wrecked an S1 and have a box full of relays to spare. Try posting up a photo.

[godzilla_753]

My pinout diagram says Pin 31 Ignition power supply (G/O)

It also says pin 24 Ignition switch signal (W/L)

Try putting a meter on pin 24 and see how it relates to the ignition switch position.

Otherwise can you not use a meter or probe to find a wire at the back of the ignition switch and run it directly to the relay? Less than ideal but just to make your car drivable.

Can you try replacing the relay? I am not really sure which relay you are talking about but I have wrecked an S1 and have a box full of relays to spare. Try posting up a photo.

well sorry to bump my old thread but it seems this has more good information for future neo swappers. I separated out the wiring and actually got it running, but only without the maf unplugged. Now the engine isnt getting any voltage to the tps and coolant temp sensor. according to schematic posted in this thread.

It seems that pin 48 should give power to the TPS, refrigerant pressure sensor, and turbo pressure sensor. With a test light, im not getting any volts to the any of these.

in addition, my coolant temp sensor isnt being grounded by ecu pin 43. This ground wire also plays a role in providing ground to the tps, rps, turbo pressure sensor, and ring gear crankshaft position sensor.

When i start the car it seems to be running very rich, and doesnt hold idle at all unless i hold the throttle open. when i unplug the maf it idles high but is in limp mode. Anyone have any ideas why those sensors are missing power and ground?

Pin 48 seems to go into a bridge connector that provides power to all these sensors, and there isnt any power there. what should i do about this? would it be smart to cut 48 and just provide my own 12v?

[kjb_r33]

Pin 48 seems to go into a bridge connector that provides power to all these sensors, and there isnt any power there. what should i do about this? would it be smart to cut 48 and just provide my own 12v?

NO, voltage to these sensors is 5 volts only (reference voltage).

maybe your test light isnt lighting because it is only 5 volts. Try a volt meter instead.

[godzilla_753]

i see, 5 volts you say? The thing is im a little confused to as how the ecu sees this signal. Pin 48 seems to feed power to a + block from wich a bunch of wires come off, including those that run to the coolant temp sensor and TPS. I would think that the computer feeds 12v to the CTS, and then as temp rises and resistance inside the sensor decreases the voltages sent back to the ecu are read respectively. On the diagram though, it shows one of the CTS wires as being grounded and the other pink wire going to a pin on the ecu labeled as CTS signal. Can you confirm wich case is right?

I hooked up a multimeter to test voltages and nothing is registered on either the TPS or CTS. I believe the wiring continuous, so the problem lies near the computer side of the loom. somewhere there is a ground or + missing causing both the TPS, CTS, boost pressure sensor etc to not work. I think their is probably a common wire somewhere no?

[QWK32]

yes pin 48 feeds the TPS as well as a couple other but does not go to the CTS. there is a sensor ground (pin 43) that comes from the ecu that feeds ground to the CTS, TPS, and a couple others, is it possible you have one if not both of these not connected? my bet is on the sensor ground feed (pin 43) not being connected as you say your CTS isn't working as well as you TPS and Boost Sensor, etc.

Edited December 6, 2010 by QWK32

[godzilla_753]

yes pin 48 feeds the TPS as well as a couple other but does not go to the CTS. there is a sensor ground (pin 43) that comes from the ecu that feeds ground to the CTS, TPS, and a couple others, is it possible you have one if not both of these not connected? my bet is on the sensor ground feed (pin 43) not being connected as you say your CTS isn't working as well as you TPS and Boost Sensor, etc.

that makes sense, Ill go back and look it over.

but to be clear, its possible that pin 43 isnt grounding my sensors causing them not to work? I thought the tps saw 12v, sent a signal back to the ecu, and third wire is a ground (pin 43).

so this means that one of the wires on the cts is a ground and the other a signal feed to the ecu? the sensor never sees above signal voltage then correct?