Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

but to be clear, its possible that pin 43 isnt grounding my sensors causing them not to work?

yep, that's what i was getting at, it makes sense because of the sensors that aren't working.

I thought the tps saw 12v, sent a signal back to the ecu, and third wire is a ground (pin 43).

so this means that one of the wires on the cts is a ground and the other a signal feed to the ecu? the sensor never sees above signal voltage then correct?

Nah the tps gets 5v along with a few other sensors. There are some that get a 12v positive feed though, like the CAS, MAF and O2. I dont know what you mean by signal voltage sorry, but at a guess I'd say the positive side of the CTS is handled by the inside ECU, I'm not exactly sure how the ECU handles the signal from the CTS.

You could just place a ground on the TPS ground to test it but I wouldn't leave it like that, the signal ground from the ecu will be noise filtered to help with more accurate readings. It would be better to use the pin 43 feed, that is of coarse if that is the issue.

don't worry about the FPCM (fuel pump control module) ad dropping resistor, they are located in the rear of the car and most people wire them out anyway to help aftermarket pumps.

Sorry to get a bit OT but do you know where these are on a S2/NEO? I've had the fuel pump out and haven't been able to find them...

Sorry to get a bit OT but do you know where these are on a S2/NEO? I've had the fuel pump out and haven't been able to find them...

the FPCM is behind the bit of trim to the right of the ATTESA fluid reservoir, sort of just behind the tail light on the drivers side, where the chrome child seat restraint hook thingies are. the dropping resistor is in the same place but on the passenger side. they are both on the back side of the steel skin in the cavity you should be able to see them easy enough. i've got some pics of them if you want them as well as a wiring diagram of the wire colours that i figured out.

Edited by QWK32

jointconnector.png

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

this is the joint connector I was talking about. 43 goes to the ECU and provides ground to the wires on the (-) side. on the positive side of the clip on pin 4,5,6,7 i should see 12v. 48 is listed as power supply.  checked the wires on this side and this fed ignition to the TPS, didnt have time to check where exactly the other 2 wires went. but they are all grey with a blue stripe. I have a picture of the actual joint connector im talking about just in case anyones confused. Its brown, ill upload it tonight.

the joint connector is def hooked up, no wires are cut and its shouldve worked as is.

2 questions:

-does the ecu provide the ground for these sensors? I didnt see any of the (-) side of the joint connector going to the chassis. this means that the ecu grounds this connector.

-since 48 isnt providing 12v, can I cut 48 from the ecu and just provide my own 12v switched. 

in all i think it comes  back to pin 31, which is listed as ignition power supply. Since my plug has nothing there, maybe the pin was pulled out or something? could this pin be the reason why all the wires on the joint connector is not getting any voltage? I looked super hard at the plug and under close scrutiny, it seems there is a really small nick in the plastic surrounding pin31. Is it likely the pin was removed and then the wire removed from the loom? Anyone know what color the wire should be? I can try and hunt the wire by its wire color. 

jointconnector.png

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

this is the joint connector I was talking about. 43 goes to the ECU and provides ground to the wires on the (-) side. on the positive side of the clip on pin 4,5,6,7 i should see 12v. 48 is listed as power supply. checked the wires on this side and this fed ignition to the TPS, didnt have time to check where exactly the other 2 wires went. but they are all grey with a blue stripe. I have a picture of the actual joint connector im talking about just in case anyones confused. Its brown, ill upload it tonight.

the joint connector is def hooked up, no wires are cut and its shouldve worked as is.

2 questions:

-does the ecu provide the ground for these sensors? I didnt see any of the (-) side of the joint connector going to the chassis. this means that the ecu grounds this connector.

-since 48 isnt providing 12v, can I cut 48 from the ecu and just provide my own 12v switched.

in all i think it comes back to pin 31, which is listed as ignition power supply. Since my plug has nothing there, maybe the pin was pulled out or something? could this pin be the reason why all the wires on the joint connector is not getting any voltage? I looked super hard at the plug and under close scrutiny, it seems there is a really small nick in the plastic surrounding pin31. Is it likely the pin was removed and then the wire removed from the loom? Anyone know what color the wire should be? I can try and hunt the wire by its wire color.

As above G/O

right mate, I remembered to go back and reread. I decided to dig deeper in my loom for a green with orange stripe and couldn't find anything inside the cabin. I then went to the other side of the firewall towards the engine, and found a wire that appeared to be heading into the ecu but was cut short. It is a green with orange stripe, with silver marks every 3 or 4 inches. Can anyone confirm that this is the wire? As it sits, there isnt any 12v ignition going to that wire.

Maybe someone pulled the wire out of the loom and cut it out? should i be able to see any kind of damage or knicks on the plastic connector if someone did indeed de-pin the plug? If this is the wire that should have led to pin 31 Im presuming I can put 12v ignition feed on the wiring and put it back on pin 31. Can anyone crack open their kickpanel and confirm the silver marks on the wire?

Edited by godzilla_753

Im pretty tired of trying to get this thing running, and im sure everyones tired of seeing my posts. Im just gonna give it 12v switched on pin 31 and see what happens. Lets hope I dont burn up the computer. mellow.gif

On the other hand, I adapted a GTR intake manifold with ITB's onto my rb25 so if I do get this thing running, expect some posts and pics on that little project (assuming the thing doesn't leak).

gave the pin power and looks like its working, pin 48 is putting out 5 volts to the tps as it should. Now the only thing wrong is my maf wiring seems to be wrong. The car runs without it plugged in, but as soon as i plug it in the engine starts to sputter and die

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...