Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

oh and in regards to the patrol pathfinder, etc block head combine, i was a bit off :cool:

you use the rb30 block, rb26 head and nissan Navara or pathfinder (forgot which one exactly, but a bit of google will surely ifnd it) pistons, conrods and crank.

they will make the engine to a 3.2 or 3.4l engine.

Care to elaborate on exactly how this "might" be possible? Larger pistons dont solve the problem of the block being thin in the bore. Fact is, you can not bore past 88mm with an RB block (all of them) before the cylinder thicknesses get below 2mm.

You can use that bore size if you wanted to grout fill the block as well, but thats not going to work for a street engine, as you would need to do a complete fill to get the strength in the block where it's needed (at the top 1-2" of the cylinder). Even then, an 88m bore is only 3.1lt anyway with an 85mm stroke.

Stroker crankshafts like the one that Spool are developing, combined with a sleeved block (to allow an 88mm bore) are about the only way you can get anywhere near 3.4lt.

3.2lt is easier to achieve. A 6" chevy rod with 1.88" big ends on an offset ground 87mm RB30 crank, with an 87.5mm piston will get you a 3.15lt. 87.5 is about as large as I've "read about" people running without sleeving (not my recommendation though). And you'd want to be dam sure about your tune, so you dont go splitting the thin bores. Having an engine that can only be tuned to 7/10ths is pretty pointless in my opinion.

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

im not 100% on how it all got done, i didnt do it, the tuner doing my mates skyline did it, i will be going there tomorrow and ill see if i can get a couple of answers.

could be that conrods are shorter or pistons have a differnent top. in which case youll have really low compression but more litres. or even if the crank has a longer stroke/ turning circle. but ill ask him how the fkuk he did that all tomorrow.

since i havent done it i can only speak from word of mouth.

but on another note, i say buy a 24u block and keep your skyline a skyline not a hybrid "Commoline"

i know this thread is about the engine, but is there a car involved??? i kinda got lost after a while....

Well I haven't bought the car yet, like I said it will definitely be within 1-2 weeks. I just need info on this because the Skyline hasn't got alot of forums around, they're either Japanese or in the UK. This site seems to be solid. I only want 3/3.1 litres but if 3.4 is possible then the more the merrier. However I do want the engine to keep that "RBness" about it.

hay dude, whats this patrol block ur talking about, i think the old ones do run rb30's

mine will handle 1000hp and cost me 10k, how does the patrol block make it a 3.5litre, this is interesting...

Pretty sure the patrol block he means is the RD28 diesel block.

There is a 26/28 R33 in the latest Zoom mag with 937rwhp and has run a 8.3 @ 163mph

This thread gives me the shits, bigtime.

Buy the car. Take to someone who has done the rb30 conversion before who is local to you. Pay money. Done.

Mine is a 3L. Makes enough power to scare other built GTR owners. Still revs like an rb26, if you Fu(k it up it won't rev.

I agree Steve. This thread is almost a waste. Why would you want to buy an already well done 400kw R34 GTR [ACCESS] and then go for an RB30 stroker?

Anyway, don't waste your time, I am buying it as a daily driver. :)

This thread gives me the shits, bigtime.

Buy the car. Take to someone who has done the rb30 conversion before who is local to you. Pay money. Done.

Mine is a 3L. Makes enough power to scare other built GTR owners. Still revs like an rb26, if you Fu(k it up it won't rev.

Exactly Steve, thats why I popped my head in here..... but I gave up, too much cluelessness here for me.

not sure which Patrol motor you're referring to, RB30S (I have one) is an R31 motor with a carburettor (and 4wd sump, also takes ~6l oil). RB28 or TB42?

Try driving a reletively stock one IMO, then decide whether you want to go more displacement, or bigger turbos etc.

I think I'll be getting the OS Giken 3.15 motor, it seems to be coming from a solid company and I calculated it, I could make it work into the budget. Now because this thing is so expensive I want the best tuner in the country. I would be willing to go interstate for a tune if its necessary. Does anyone know a good tuner with a good workshop?

If you are so concerned about displacement, get a Clubsport!!!

or alternatively:

M3 is 3.2 or 4.5 (?) if it's the V8

2.6x1.7 turbo multiplication as per motorsport regs = 4.42, so basically the RB26 is equivelant to an NA 4.4l, but is even easier to get HP out of. Seriously get the car, drive it for a bit, play with what you get then decide what you want to improve. if it is STRICTLY a road car what the F do you need more than 300hp for? even my stock R32 with a pair of -7s is quicker that all bar the top Porsches/Ferraris/Lambos etc to 100... The way you are talking I would personally be suggesting maybe this

post-26910-1285147187_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is there a diameter difference in the stock to Nismo? If so, the weight alone won't be indicative when comparing flywheels of the same diameter, since the radius of the flywheel acts on the moment of inertia with a square factor, where as mass is linear. Roughly going from a 4.5kg flywheel with radius 20cm, to a 9kg flywheel with radius 14cm would see them act the same. This calc is just here to act as a brief numbers comparison and reflects no actual RB flywheel diameters etc. it also assumes even weight distribution (thickness) throughout.
    • It seems this could be due to a restructure/team direction change... Or... You're working with a different category of vehicle... Or you've decided you'd rather be able to play with your own cars again...   I'm hoping the latter...
    • had 4 weeks off over xmas and well did some stuff to the shed and BRZ, well short of is I don't work full time in supercars anymore as of yesterday.........
    • Did you get any down time over Christmas, or have you had any since to play with this? Or have you given up and are trying to get yourself a second hand V8SC instead?
    • A random thought I had just before I hit "Submit on this post". If brake fluid, in a container in my garage that has never been opened goes bad after 18 months, why can I leave it in my car for 24 months in an "unsealed container"... Secondly, some other digging, and brake fluid manufacturers seem to be saying 5 year shelf life... Me thinks there line on 18 months for an unsealed bottle is pretty much horse shit marketing spin. Kind of like how if you drive a car and don't run a turbo timer your turbo and motor will die horribly...   Where I started on this though... Someone (me) started down a bit of a rabbit hole, I don't quite have the proper equipment to do Equilibrium Reflux boiling per the proper test standards. I did a little digging on YouTube, and this was the first video I found on someone attempting to "just boil it". This video isn't overly scientific, as we don't have a known reference for his test either. Inaccuracy in his equipment could have him reaching the 460 to 470f boiling point range in reality. In the video, using a laser temp gun, he claims his Dot3 that's been open in his florida garage for over a year gets to about 420 to 430 fahrenheit (215 to 221c) Doing some googling, I located an MSDS for that specific oil, and from new, it claims a dry boiling point of 460 to 470f. Unfortunately they don't list a wet boiling point for us to see how far it degraded toward its "wet" point. While watching it I was thinking "I wonder what the flash point is..." turns out its only 480f for that specific brake fluid....   As for testing the oil's resistance, I might not be able to accurately do that unfortunately. Resistance level will be quite a LOT higher than my system can read I suspect based on some research. However, I might be able to do it by measuring the current when I apply a specific voltage. I won't have an actual water % value, but I'll have some values I can compare between the multitude of fluids. I'll run some vague calculations later and see if I should be able to read any reliable amount of current. These calcs will be based on some values I've found for other oils, and see how close I'll need my terminals together. From memory I can get down to 1pA accuracy on the DMM. I don't think my IOT Power Tester has any better resolution.    
×
×
  • Create New...