Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi,

as topic states im selling my car

reason for sale: bought another car and need money for new project

if the car doesnt sell by this weekend then im gona keep both cars

heaps of rego till september

im around the sydney area.

asking price $23,500

82,000kms

cosmetics:

full Mspec factory kit including chin spoiler.

17x8 17x9 inch super advans - pretty dishy

razo gear nob and pedals

20% tints

leather steering wheel

performance mods:

blitz front mount - 10cm core ie. realli thick

3 inch custom front/dump

3 inch hi flow cat

3.5 inch tanabe cat bak

blitz pod filter

blitz BOV

turbo timer

33GTR Vspec fuel pump with fuel regulator

heavy duty clutch

tien HR coilovers

HKS EVC3 boost controller

HKS FCON V fuel and ignition timing computer

autometer boost and air/fuel gauges

rear GTR strut brace

front strut brace

urethane bushes

other stuff:

alarm 3point imboliser with kill switch

alpine head unit

focal polyglass splits

climate control, air bags and all that other stuff

prob some other stuff i left out..

Call me to inspect on 0414816858 if interested.

ive attached a pic,

but these arnt gona b the wheels that come with the car.

car comes with those superadvans that i mentioned

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...