Jump to content
SAU Community

Not Happy, Something Is Wrong...

Hanaldo

By Hanaldo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Brezza Proficient

Brezza

Posted
Posted
Everyones dyno "reads low", its the new black.

yeah i found that my car ran about 40kw difference between 2 dyno's. dynodynamics and mainline

i really dont care, the car felt much faster.

i always get the car dynoed and tuned on the same dyno to eliminate any issues with the dyno reading low. then if power is down or its not making as much as it should be then there is something wrong.

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted
andrew seams to ignore light load tuning and only do full load tunes when hes busy. if he didnt spend much time on it then i dare say you have a rich light load map with no where near enough timing. i'm in perth and have nistune software if you want me to take a look at it for you?

perfect for a street car :cool:

StealthX Veteran

StealthX

Posted
Posted
yer definately.... made me start doing my own tuning, got sick of paying $400+ for a job not even half done

Right on...

Once you have the gear (laptop, software, wideband and AFR guage and a free section of highway) it actually not that hard! The EMS software I'm using is really user friendly too (:

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted
Right on...

Once you have the gear (laptop, software, wideband and AFR guage and a free section of highway) it actually not that hard! The EMS software I'm using is really user friendly too (:

I'm considering buying the gear myself as the consistency I seem to get is a bit average, so many average tunes and most people don't know how to check it so not many people on here realise either, that or I need to find a tuner where they offer for me to sit around and watch everything they do.

Personally seeing those AFRs on that dyno sheet and it being a final tune I would take it elsewhere, if it looks like that on WOT I'd hate to imagine what the timing and afrs look like on half load and cruise. Might cost you $500 but if you can find someone that will take the time and do the entire map properly it is worth it, only trouble is finding someone who will put this sort of effort in.

A lot of the big tuners will for their big hp and important customers cars, but will rush some of the cheaper jobs so the consistency isn't there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • DraftySquash
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Milkmun
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • DraftySquash
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • B-Boi34
      UniClutch

      By B-Boi34 · Posted

      I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Kinkstaah
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...