Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Been meaning to amp the speakers in the stag and ditch the stock ones in the rear for a while now but I just haven't got around to it.... Anyway time has come. Im not after anything ridiculously loud, just clear sound. Not keen for a sub as i use the wagon very often and dont want to mess about with a funky install in the floor or anything as thats time wasted on potential power gain fiddling....

Currently have a alpine head unit with plenty of RCA outs and alpine type s components or "splits" as some people call them in the front.

Im going to buy a 4 channel amp and another set of components/splits, obversely 6.5". Id like to just put the new speakers in the rear as the front tweeters are custom installed onto the small triangular piece on the front doors with fabric stretched over them, saying that the Type S's are only 50w RMS and the next lot will probably be a bit higher.

How would the new speakers go with the type S tweeters hooked up to them?

Also I have NO idea on what RMS to get when I buy and amp and what OHM ect ect?

Any help much appreciated,

chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337407-stagea-audio-speaker-and-amp-qs/
Share on other sites

ull want to get a set of 2 ways or something like that for the rear... or a set like the mb quarts i had where the tweeter mounted on the woofer... so a 2 way/split setup i spose... as u wont want to have a tweeter in the rear floating around...

just but lukes shit n b done with it...

wiring kit, and 14v fuel pump setup while ur f**king with cables n stuff :D

I personally always match my front splits and rear 2ways from the same series.

That said I would replace your splits- Hertz on a budget(and no sound deadening), I also like the sound of MB Quartz. Some Soundstream gear is decent. Focals are a popular option.

I like audison amps, compact, quality. Mount under a seat. Rockford Fosgate amps are popular, I only liked their sub amps last time I checked, some soundstream amps are again decent!

Give Simon at MOB a call or check out their website for suitable audio gear. MOB have done most of the work to my stag and they're awesome. I have kevlar splits and amp package for front and rear and sound quality is tops. 10% discount for club members too.

Give Simon at MOB a call ......... 10% discount for club members too.

I'd love to support the locals but with the dollar the way it is stuff from the states is about a third of the price of retail here atm.

just do what im doing, dump the rear... ( i mean how much time do 'you' spend in the back..???) fork out for sme decent quality front splits, buy a decent quailty amp. (bigger the better).. why i say this is that you can always turn the gains down, but when there up full, you cant go any higher.

for example here is what im putting in mine....

http://www.hybridaudio.com.au/index.php//L...t-Set/p_28.html

post-36893-1284896530_thumb.jpg

these are getting power from 2x Alpine MRV-F540 amps the 8" will be getting 200w RMS and the mid and tweeter will be getting 80w RMS each.

also when installing new speakers always use new wiring, the factory stuff really wont hack i after a while.

ps here is what the back is going to look like.....

post-36893-1284896504_thumb.jpg

just do what im doing, dump the rear... ( i mean how much time do 'you' spend in the back..???) fork out for sme decent quality front splits, buy a decent quailty amp. (bigger the better).. why i say this is that you can always turn the gains down, but when there up full, you cant go any higher.

for example here is what im putting in mine....

http://www.hybridaudio.com.au/index.php//L...t-Set/p_28.html

post-36893-1284896530_thumb.jpg

these are getting power from 2x Alpine MRV-F540 amps the 8" will be getting 200w RMS and the mid and tweeter will be getting 80w RMS each.

also when installing new speakers always use new wiring, the factory stuff really wont hack i after a while.

ps here is what the back is going to look like.....

post-36893-1284896504_thumb.jpg

I found it noticeable when faded all to the front(simulating no rears) Stagea rear speakers are placed a lot closer to your head than in a skyline(parcel shelf) for example.

Can someone please reply to the ohm and wattage questions?

Looks like you'll be giving everyone on the road a goodheadache infiltrator :cool: why not just get one highend sub instead of four type s's ?

Most car speakers are 4ohm speakers, and most off the shelf amps are for 4ohm speakers. check out alpines website for some combo packages, even if you dont want alpine it will give you a good indication on what to buy. also, dont go with what people say.. go and take your fav cd into the stores, and listen on the demo boards.. .what sounds good to me, might sound crap to you.. and vice versa.

any more info might want to go to http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au just go to the search and you find all the info you need :)

as for the subs, trust me when i say the type s subs are great, the two that i have, (the ones in the pics) (i photodhopped the pic thats y there are 4) have lasted me almost 9 years and produced a 135.5 Db in my old bluebird wagon... so yes there cheap. but they are proven, to me anyway. also i dont want huge 15's so 4 12's are a comprimise.

Edited by infiltrator

type r all around

i've got focal splits up front and type r 2 ways in the rear doors, no sub (yet)

all running off the head unit (think you need the same Ω front and back)

you can notice the sound from the rears more than you think and it gives it much better "stage" if they are all matched

i find the focals lack a bit of mid and bass but the type r's do well

im thinking about one of those under seat subs too, or maybe a powerful 10" in a small ported box

or maybe i'll put the twin 12's in from my suby :)

In the old car i only had fronts, came 5 in aus, SQ comp 2005.

The rears are only for fill... i like my stage all up the front, but saying that. that is my preference, audio is a very subjective medium, for everyone is different.

for the HU powered speakers all have to be same ohms, but in an amp setup, you can have on a 4 ch amp, ch 1+2 @ 4ohm and ch 3+4 @ 2ohm. but the amp must be 2 Ohm stable. if you are using the rears @ 2ohm they will sound louder because there will be more power into them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
    • Nah, not really responsible for that little fiasco, but I'm still pissed at myself for writing off my 86, or when I reversed my VX into a pole just before selling it, but, meh, 5hit happens to stuff, all it takes is a slight distraction, and life is full of distractions, and "dooh" moments   
×
×
  • Create New...