Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=120623327317

Replica is based on a non complianced, non complianceable Sep 1993 GTR with pull type clutch

Engine was purchased in 2007 as a brand new R33 24U N1 crate engine & was fitted into the car in Japan. As most people are aware these engines are/were over $15-20,000 new and a bare replacement engine block alone fetches over $3000 if you can get hold of one - utilising a stronger thicker 'motor-sport casting', obviously fitted with low cavitation N1 racing waterpump, N1 high volume oil pump& Nismo thermostat; Fully balanced forged crankshaft with longer oil drive snout. (eliminating most of the problems associated with early R32 GTR RB26 engines).

When we got the car we fully rebuilt the engine using Ross Racing Pistons, ACl Race Series Bearings & Gaskets with a 1.3mm Permaseal MLS-R multi layer steel head gasket. Engine was Bored .5mm to increase capacity& torque; fully balanced & blueprint assembled.

Head is Std N1 item with N1 Cams, and has aftermarket cam gears attatched, but not yet adjusted from stock position. Engine pipes are polished, and has a full set of powder-coated rocker covers (although not shown all on there). Has brand new Gates racing timing belt, with new Genuine Timing idler & Tensioner bearings. Car comes with but not yet fitted 50mm Aluminium radiator, & gates racing radiator hoses. Car is fitted with a HKS Hard piping kit & Greddy remote oil filter & large front mounted oil Cooler.

Car features Nismo G-Max twin plate clutch & short shifter, is fitted with Nismo 300km Dash; Fully adjustable top camber arms, Adjustable Caster rods & sounds great through a 4" exhaust. Car also has an adjustable 4wd controller, adjusting the amount of drive given to the front of the car (however this has not been used since being installed).

Car is painted in the Infamous 1992 Gibson motorsport touring car champion Livery; However still requires front air ducts to be fitted to front bar & front lip to be installed. Along with a set of N1 sideskirts.

With the original car now being valued close to $1.5Mil it is a great opportunity to get a Replica at a fraction of the price, add this to your private collection or race it on weekends.

Car is Semi race prepped, has had all interior sound deadening removed - but does not have a roll cage or race seat (Has std GTR Buckets fitted currently)

Car does have a race harness fitted; unsure of which wheels will come with the car (as has very ugly 18" wheels that detract from the appeal of this car that are fitted currently with 18" Slicks). We have some other sets of wheels, that may suit the livery better; but this will be open to negotiation by the winning bidder.

We have spent far too much on the car and cannot afford to continue with it any further (would not like to put a figure on the costs so far). Buyer will be getting a bargain with a realistic reserve set. Please do not ask what the reserve is set at. If you are serious about owning this car, then your first bid will break through the reserve.

Happy bidding.

Can anyone help with an idea of what it is worth?

Cheers

In current guise its neither an arse nor an elbow. It isnt a street car and it certainly isnt a race car.

Yes its worth more than the 10 g that the lowballin fat man claims but not much more.

Either finish it as a track weapon or part it out as that is the only way you'll get any money for it.

20k? Unregister able standard GTR with built motor and paint, its hardly a replica... no cage.. no sus.. no wheels

+1

I can paint my GTR with those colours and decals and call it a "Winfield Replica".

nice ad, would lowball again A++++++++++++++++++++

those wheels look like the ones you get from bob jane in a set with tyres for $400 bucks loool. If you're hellbent on selling it, I hope you have receipts for all those parts! may as well keep it or transplant motor etc into a registered car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd say the easiest way is, pick up a extended and baffled sump with fittings already welded on. Here is an example, it has 3 x -10 fittings  https://shop.maatouksracing.com.au/products/rb-extended-and-baffled-sump
    • hey OP can you remind me what the actual question was, I got sidetracked at V12. Do you have an turbo oil return leak and an unidentified coolant leak? The factory oil returns are terrible design; short, rubber and expensive to replace. They are very common to fail and a pain to replace because they are so short. Still, they are available new if you want to replace both last time I checked. For the coolant leak, any competent mechanic should be able to do a pressure test; that should show up where the leak is. It is almost certainly one of the billion 30 year old rubber lines which are now brittle as hell, you engine will be fine.
    • From the OP's description, sounds to me like the TCU is in 'limp home' mode --- that is, no actuation power to shift solenoids, and the EPC valve is shut (full line pressure). This effectively sticks the box in 3rd gear, with as much line pressure as possible, to try hold the high clutch clamped shut....and so you get woeful acceleration and don't feel any shifts (because they're not happening). If you don't have Consult or some other scanner to interrogate the TCU itself, you can test with a multimeter to see if it's in limp home mode....ie; stick it in D with engine at idle (hold vehicle with hand/foot brake), and measure the voltage at the TCU feeding shift solenoids A & B -- both should be ON (battery voltage). If they are energized at the TCU, you can unplug the harness from the TCU, and check resistance down through the wiring to the solenoids themselves -- you should see about 20ohms on each coil --- if you do, you can presume the wiring to shift solenoids is OK -- if both measure open circuit, you have to check intermediate connectors in the loom down to the gearbox (and the gearbox connector itself), and check the shift solenoid resistance at the gearbox connector itself --- if the shift solenoids test open circuit here, problem is in the box (ether the solenoids or wiring to them is bad). If you get no voltage at TCU connector for the shift solenoids (and the solenoids/wiring test OK), check powers/grounds to the TCU itself --- if they're ok, it suggests the TCU is the culprit (and you'd need to interrogate it if possible, to find out why it's behaving badly)... 
    • Hey mate give Autotechnica a go, I recently got some Comfort PUs and rails from them, they're comfy and look great highly recommended! https://www.autotecnica.com.au/part-finder/nissan/skyline/r32/
    • Honestly, for a daily I would gladly rock a Camry. The more disposable the better. People drive horribly out here and road conditions are awful.
×
×
  • Create New...