Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My gearbox was crunching into second, doing a bit of research i found that an oil change helped ppl alot.

So i change my oil to castol epx8090, didnt really help.

When cold its hard to change into second, as in the gear stick is hard to push in. This is only when cold, with the old oil it was fine.

I guessing my box is worn? but is there any additive or even another oil change you can recommend?

I'm not recommending it, though I read people add the Nulon G70/G90 (not sure on the model) additive when changing their gearbox fluid. Since you don't have a GTR and no transfer case, you could add it through the shifter instead of taking the filler plug off the side of the transmission.

Reco, and yes if you want to do it properly you get it reconditioned. Once you crack open a box and start replacing parts you upset tolerances and other parts.

A recon price varies on how much you want fixed, if you only want 1 sychro fixed you get charged for one synchro, you get more replaced you get charged more. All depends on what is found when your reconditioner pulls the unit apart. Could be 1k could be more

  • 2 months later...

My R33 GTR also has the occasional crunch into 5th gear. Why fifth?

just the way it goes sometimes. it is odd though, the synchro mesh on 5th doesnt usually get anywhere near the thrashing that 2nd-3rd-4th does. although i used to have the same issue but it turned out my clutch fluid just needed to be bled, lol. not sure why it only affected 5th.

just change the box oil to redline shockproof, see if that helps

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the response. I have already changed the oil since I posted my issue. It hasn't crunched since I put it in. I used shockproof light. It had also crunched on one or two other gears, but it was just the odd one. I checked my brake fluid and the level is ok. Even if there was a bit of air in the system by the time you get to 5th, it's been pumped a few times. It should really be crunching when selecting first after being stationary out of gear. or cruising for a while before a gear change. I'm hoping this Redline (smurfs blood) has solved/covered-up my crunchy problem.

Just to share, I had a similar symptom on my R32 GTR (77,000km) that lead to a transmission replacement.

I had a crunch in 4th, and eventually developed a crunch in 3rd at high rpms. I switched the fluid (nothing special) in hope that a fresh fluid would help eliminate the crunch but it just made it more prominent.

Anyways, I have yet to find a permanent solution to the synchro issues on the R32 transmission, and it seems like no one has ever found one. I have been reading that even the R33 boxes have similar issues.

I know I am going to have to replace the box again at some point in time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Turbo gods, some assistance and recommendations please I'm looking into a turbo kit for my 2.5 from MX5 Mania >>>>> https://mx5mania.com.au/products/copy-of-mx-5-nc-2-5-litre-engine-conversion-turbo-2005-2013 Power wise I would like about 200kw atw, and of course dose noises, apparently if you keep a stock 2.5 under around 200kwatw the engine and drivetrain will not hate life even when ragging on it a bit Max RPM on the 2.5 is around 6500rpm The turbo MX5 use is something around the disco potato size as  packaging room for the turbo is pretty limited, which will, I believe, give me my power goals I want and not have the turbo either under, or oversized, but the rear housing bit is confusing  It comes with either a 0.64 or 0.86 From my understanding, which so far is based off googling, so make of that what you will 0.64: spools faster = good Makes more EGT heat on boost = bad Less topend power than 0.86 = I'm only looking for 200 atw so that point may be mute????, I don't know, hence my questions  0.86: Spools a "little" slower = how much slower??? remembering 6500 is my max rpm Makes less EGT heat = good Makes a little more power up top = again, power goals is only around 200 Also, this is a street car, so there will not really be any long track sessions, in saying this I would want it so it was happy with at least 3 hot laps at Wakefield Park if the need arises  I already have a fancy pants triple pass radiator, and a oil cooler with thermostat will be getting installed as well Thanks for any information or recommendations you have 👍, and of course, the comments about me wasting money on drive in drive out modifications, or any other snide remarks about my manhood for owning a MX5 🤣    
    • Tape some wool onto the vent then take it for a drive I did this to my reverse cowl and was instantly unhappy, as anything over about 60kph would have the wool enter the engine bay, thus just adding underbonnet pressure and stooging my coolant stack, it did let alot of heat out when stationary though, which really didn't help once the car was moving, with the reverse cowl you could watch the coolant temps cheap up the faster you went on the hwy, I assume it would be alot worse doing track day speed With the vented bonnet (just after the radiator and about 1/3 up the bonnet) on my old R33 the wool on the leading edge sat at about a 45° angle as air poured out of it From looking where your vents are, and their size, I believe you should be fine at speed and air should be evacuated from the engine bay, I think it will be a night and day difference when stuck in traffic though for removing the trapped heat, and not sitting there cooking when parked up after driving around... #convection  Post wool tuft pics and data for science  This beastie is one nice and unique rig, enjoy
    • It is possible to do this stuff for "cheap". But you need to be able to get deals on all the bigger items, and it really helps if you're fully capable of doing your own work. As soon as you're paying retail for new parts, or buying "kits" because you can't fabricate necessary bits and pieces, and if you really need someone else to take the reins of doing the work because you don't have the space/time/skills/confidence to  rip deep into the car and put it back together in a working fashions.....then you pay. And these days, pay means a lot of money. You'd think things would get cheaper, but they don't. They just seem to keep getting more and more expensive.
    • It’s almost the price of an engine build, you won’t have anything to bolt onto it though 
    • Hopefully it's enough to help with the temps! I was also only shit stirring, regarding Murphy's Law basically. I've found, what ever spare parts I have, are the parts I don't break. Ever. Also have never had issues with oil/spinning bearings until I put oil pressure gauges on the car. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...