Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys/Horders chasing the following.

A pair of the plastic triangle covers behind the mirrors on a 2 door DR30 (New or used, must be in 1 piece)

A pair of the rubbers that go on the mirrors to suit a 2 door DR30 (New or slightly used)

I know they are rarer than rocking horse white, but I'm a fair man and willing to pay for them.

My rubbers simply fell apart upon removal of the mirrors for the respray.

Cheers,

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337819-wtb-rocking-horse-poo/
Share on other sites

All discontinued :(

Jenesis, omote, Nissan all have nothing!

Point of interest too, the Guy who does the carbon work at Jenesis has left, so they only have the stock on hand left. No carbon instrument surrounds left ;)

Edited by masTers
Sedan/hatch are diferent to the coupe too!

And early HR is different to late HR/DR (fender vs. door mirrors)

I bought 2 sets of what I thought were the right ones, only to find out that they were for 'fender' HR's... I finally go the right ones via Omote/Yahoo! a couple of years ago.

If it's what I think your talking about, "the triangular parts the mirror mounts to" ??? The early parts are now out of production, along with the filler piece and 2ndhand is the only way for these early front fender mounted rear view mirrors. The later model items are possibly available but I need to know exactly what I'm looking at.

Cheers, D

Your image shows the window channel/seal (in reasonable condition), the remnants of the 'mirror seal' and the plastic section. I'm assuming the pieces in question are the 'mirror seal' that goes over the mirror mount plus the plastic clip in triangle (the one that keeps falling off on my passenger side...). Mine too fell apart when I got the car in '02 (I finally found the import paperwork tonight!)

mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm!

I might be taking mine off the DR trackstarr and try fitting early series mirrors so I don't risk breaking the later model electric mirrors playing Fangio. I probably have about 6 spare doors I can look at, so I'll look tomorrow and so on.

I'm surprised they are not available ex Japan, but I guess everything for these cars will be in the same boat eventually.

I'm looking for a 3.9:1 R200 diff too, open will suffice as I have 3 x 4.11:1 LSD's I can play with.

I'll reply if I'm successful.

Have you tried glueing them in situe with something black.

Cheers, D

makes me feel like an arse, because I have been meaning to buy new rubbers for my mirrors for the last 2 years, except recently when I was finaly got around to it I found out they are out of stock :blink:

Does anyone know if nissan do a re-run of spares every so often?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got the motor out and torn down. I'll be dropping off the block Monday. Luckily the scoring on Cyl6 is much less pronounced then the pictures made it out to seem. It can barely be felt. If you pass your finger over it 10x you'll barely notice it. Hopefully by some chance it will only require a honing. I'm not in the mood to buy one size larger pistons or another block. Oddly enough my 6th cylinder with the scoring has extremely clean intake valves compared to my other 5 cylinders. I'm worried the scoring was caused by too much fuel or Water/Methanol washing the cylinder. I'll review some old logs to confirm.  This was also the first time I pull an engine with the transmission still attached. It went much better then expected. I was worried my CD009 wouldn't make it easy due to its sheer size but it was much easier this way. 
    • From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
    • HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:
    • i need a complete tail light for my R33 GTR if you have please let me know.
    • I need a great maintenance workshop around Idaho, if you know one please let me know..
×
×
  • Create New...