Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all

wondering if this thermo wrap is actualy any good? seen a few cars supporting it

would like to head from anyone whos done it, brands to stay clear of, power increases, or any other bits to add to the melting pot :P

im unsure as to how it works on exhaust... is it to keen the head in the manifold/pipes, to reduce heat soak to pre engine bits, or are there other reason...

also i rarely see intercooler pipes with any on it...

:blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337860-thermo-wrap-is-it-actualy-decent/
Share on other sites

if your exhaust is mild steel then stay away from wrapping it. seen a few cases of front pipes rusting out fairly quickly(even to the point of my mates 13BT front pipe collapsing in on itself).

Ceramic coating is the way to go for ultimate heat protection

Wats the reasoning for such serious fast rust??

I think my catback is but 99% of front pipes are stainless... Much reason u wd do the catback anyway??

if your exhaust is mild steel then stay away from wrapping it. seen a few cases of front pipes rusting out fairly quickly(even to the point of my mates 13BT front pipe collapsing in on itself).

Ceramic coating is the way to go for ultimate heat protection

hi all

wondering if this thermo wrap is actualy any good? seen a few cars supporting it

would like to head from anyone whos done it, brands to stay clear of, power increases, or any other bits to add to the melting pot :P

im unsure as to how it works on exhaust... is it to keen the head in the manifold/pipes, to reduce heat soak to pre engine bits, or are there other reason...

also i rarely see intercooler pipes with any on it...

:blink:

Heat wrap/ lagging is predominantly used to protect surrounding components from heat damage in the case of exhausts. There is an amount of evidence to show keeping the heat in the pipes also improves gas flow due to higher temp as opposed to cooling (shrinking) gas where heat is shed. I'd stay away from heat wrapping intercooler pipes, unless they were routed near the exhaust, the pipe will shed heat better without it.

I'm just using steam pipe lagging on my dump & front pipe, it was easily available to me through work, and performs the same as any other type of "specialist " heat wraps for cars.

Resist the temptation to paint it though, you will be subjected to a life of burning paint fumes until you finally give up and remove it; as my friend found out...

+1 with Big Fella on mild steel, use only on stainless.

my understanding was that it was more the domain of cars with high mounts and big tuned length manifolds that put a lot of the 'hot bits' quite high up in the engine bay etc - and obviously cars that are doing serious work. all the reasons above obviously apply. other things can be as simple as it protects the paint work from being damaged from heat exposure as well as other plastic and rubber bits that live in engine bays.

i guess there would be an arguement that it would keep underbonnet temps down on a stock car, but i think a simple cold air feed would probably do more and be better at overcoming heatsoak.

the stuff is also frightfully expensive! i think your money is better spent elsewhere unless you're planning on a 35/40 highmounted to a 6boost, but if you ARE then go for it!

for the cost, you may as well get the stock cast manifold hpc coated inside and out

like some ppl said, it keeps the heat in = larger volume of gas = faster gas flow

will also cool down your engine bay no end

get your dump done at the same time, thats about the only sections to worry about getting it done to

So blue mesh would be a better option roo??

:D

So it would do more holding heat in, than protecting it in i/c piping??

Im not in the market for it, just saw a bit if it and wanted to know more about it,

And yes yes its not cheap!

It adds 10+kw. Tough as >_<

ceramic coating and heat wrapping do 2 very different things and you need to be aware of which one you are chasing.

Ceramic coating is a heat barrier that inhibits heat transfer to other parts of the engine (ie exhaust manifold to cylinder head) because, as we all know, heat = less power (inside the air pump we call an engine, anyway) Used on the entire exhaust side of the engine process, it forces the exhaust to carry away "waste" heat and not let it soak into the engine, whereby forcing undue load on to the heat exchange cuircuit.

Thermo wrapping of exhausts is a different kettle of fish altogether, and especially on race cars, is not there to stop the heat being absorbed into other engine components, its to keep the heat in the pipes. If it was to stop radiation then simple waffle shields would be used (like on factory set ups) combined with an efficient CAI setup.

The main reason for its use is because a gas's volume will increase in proportion to its temperature, which in turn increases its pressure. Exactly how much benefit this would provide in a turbo charged car I am yet to be convinced of, but in a NA application, when combined with a free flowing exhauist and a well designed set of extractors, it increases pulse scavenging by a huge amount, which in turn provides many ecomony and power advantages.

ceramic coating and heat wrapping do 2 very different things and you need to be aware of which one you are chasing.

Ceramic coating is a heat barrier that inhibits heat transfer to other parts of the engine (ie exhaust manifold to cylinder head) because, as we all know, heat = less power (inside the air pump we call an engine, anyway) Used on the entire exhaust side of the engine process, it forces the exhaust to carry away "waste" heat and not let it soak into the engine, whereby forcing undue load on to the heat exchange cuircuit.

Thermo wrapping of exhausts is a different kettle of fish altogether, and especially on race cars, is not there to stop the heat being absorbed into other engine components, its to keep the heat in the pipes. If it was to stop radiation then simple waffle shields would be used (like on factory set ups) combined with an efficient CAI setup.

The main reason for its use is because a gas's volume will increase in proportion to its temperature, which in turn increases its pressure. Exactly how much benefit this would provide in a turbo charged car I am yet to be convinced of, but in a NA application, when combined with a free flowing exhauist and a well designed set of extractors, it increases pulse scavenging by a huge amount, which in turn provides many ecomony and power advantages.

is this to say you are not suppose to ceramic coat and thermal wrap the entire exhaust side?

because wouldnt it be a double hit if you do a coat and a wrap?

wow quite a can of worms ive opened here :blink:

so are we kinda agreeing that its not worthy of putting on an exhaust of a street style car??

i was kinda looking at ways to stop heat soaking into the intercooler pipes and alike (pre-engine components obviously)...

would you attack this by stopping heat coming off the exhaust, and leaving the cooler alone, or would you wrap the cooler pipes... while locking in what heat is there while your at it...

wow quite a can of worms ive opened here :blink:

so are we kinda agreeing that its not worthy of putting on an exhaust of a street style car??

i was kinda looking at ways to stop heat soaking into the intercooler pipes and alike (pre-engine components obviously)...

would you attack this by stopping heat coming off the exhaust, and leaving the cooler alone, or would you wrap the cooler pipes... while locking in what heat is there while your at it...

No, definitely worth putting an exhaust on a street car.

If you want to insulate pipework post intercooler, go for it, I'd resist insulating pre intercooler; you'll be able to shed some heat there.

Just zorst manifold and dump pipe...?? My cat back isnt stainless so more money than its worth there... And with cooler i was just thinking as it came back into engine bay...

Do u just do a single layer or over lap effectivly giving u double layering

No, definitely worth putting an exhaust on a street car.

If you want to insulate pipework post intercooler, go for it, I'd resist insulating pre intercooler; you'll be able to shed some heat there.

Just zorst manifold and dump pipe...?? My cat back isnt stainless so more money than its worth there... And with cooler i was just thinking as it came back into engine bay...

Do u just do a single layer or over lap effectivly giving u double layering

On mine; I insulated Dump, and front pipe, leaving cat exposed, with a 50% overlap, this took me to level with the back seat. Again, you mightn't want to get that excited, my wrap was free :blink: . Do your exhaust manifold if you like, I'd be happy with the factory heat shield in most cases.

Hey,Chef ,I had the same doubt as you so my cheap ass solution was the ACL heat shield, still hot around but not direct radiant from my Xforce ss dump pipe,did it about 8 months ago ,so far so good ...

Cost me $45 +$5 on ss ties, you can see it in the second pic ...

post-52922-1285335672_thumb.jpg

post-52922-1285335984_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
    • Nah, not really responsible for that little fiasco, but I'm still pissed at myself for writing off my 86, or when I reversed my VX into a pole just before selling it, but, meh, 5hit happens to stuff, all it takes is a slight distraction, and life is full of distractions, and "dooh" moments   
×
×
  • Create New...