Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

Just tryna finish up the final mods I have planned for the V. Looking for the following:

- Z tube (either chrome or CF)

- Stillen Cold air intake kit

- Grounding Kit (preferably SxExCxs one from g35driver)

- Motordyne Shockwave exhaust (or possibly kakimoto or HKS)

- Works Bell Paddle shifters

- SSR centre caps

- 06/07 OEM sports bumper or Kuruma Z bumper

Let me know if you have any of the following...

cheers :O

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337913-wtb-various-bits-and-pieces/
Share on other sites

yo Myrz,

Interior

Map lights - 31mm festoon SMD LEDS

Front door underside lights - 31mm festoon SMD LEDS

Rear passenger seat lights - 31mm festoon SMD LEDS

try this:

http://shop.ebay.com.au/?_from=R40&_tr...w=31mm+bulb+car

look for something that will fit. dont get the ones that is sticking out like a boat.

- Works Bell Paddle shifters

Let me know if you have any of the following...

cheers :P

I don't have, but maybe look into the Nissan GT8 paddles?

They are brilliant and sit perfectly (a bit higher than the works bell paddles)

just sold my car. if i was parting out i would of ticket all the performance mods off your list!

new owner is very happy ;)

yeh i was very much hoping you'd part out lolz... do you mind if i ask how much you ended up getting? PM me if it's cool..

also how much you got the zorst for? Been looking to import from the states but there's a back order on the exhaust til end of nov/early dec :D

best thing to do is buy some USD's get it changed now. it cost just under $2k delieverd from riverside infinity, but that also included the stillen intake and the stock RHS battery cover and also the drivers key hole delete.

they chucked it all in the 1 box so i didnt have to pay multiple shipping!

best exhaust ive heard on a V35 still to this day.

best thing to do is buy some USD's get it changed now. it cost just under $2k delieverd from riverside infinity, but that also included the stillen intake and the stock RHS battery cover and also the drivers key hole delete.

they chucked it all in the 1 box so i didnt have to pay multiple shipping!

best exhaust ive heard on a V35 still to this day.

yeh heaps keen on this zorst... perfect blend of everything - power, loudness, quietness, looks... Guess that's why there's such a long wait on em..

im keen for the Kuruma Z bumper...

let me know if you get a hold of it

I won't be looking to import one rip so if I do manage to get a hold of one it's mine :P

hey mjay,

Where you from? Coz i'm also interested on getting the Exhaust as well. I'm in Melbourne btw. Maybe can share the shipping.

Im in syd. Maybe we can ship it to one of us then ship it to the other when it gets here and split it down the middle??

What zorst you keen on?

hmmmm Kinda thinking the Shockwave TDX2, but they don't have any instock until November. Want to put a good use with the high US$ :P Currently have the ApexI WS2 on my V35 So i might get the XYZ pipe and berk HFC instead.

hmmmm Kinda thinking the Shockwave TDX2, but they don't have any instock until November. Want to put a good use with the high US$ :( Currently have the ApexI WS2 on my V35 So i might get the XYZ pipe and berk HFC instead.

no worriez.. i'll let you know when i'm purchasing towards the end of the year in case you still want in

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
    • There are guys on Facebook under, Infiniti Owners Australia   https://www.facebook.com/share/g/1Z3RbPqx4k/?mibextid=wwXIfr What Whp are you after and I can help, and join this Q group in the states. https://www.facebook.com/share/g/19A59cN3JR/?mibextid=wwXIfr
×
×
  • Create New...