Er34 Gtt Sedan Sway Bar Fitting

[itsme]

Hi all,

As topic states I've picked myself up front and rear adjustable whiteline swaybars. Was going to have a crack at installing them myself over the weekend with my scissor jack, jack stands and a days work (I hope). I have very little knowledge of what is involved to put them on, was more or less going to jack the car up take a look and tackle it logically. Is there anything I need to know beforehand or is it pretty much a take-off the old and bolt-on the new? Any tips, advice or pointers from people who have done it would be appreciated. I put my coilovers in by myself and enjoy learning so that's why I was gonna give this a go then when my adjustable castor arms arrive I was gonna take it to a suspension place to get them installed and the suspension correctly tuned/wheels aligned.

thanks in advance lads,

Steve

[itsme]

Hey guys,

Further to this initial post (which received no responses). I have just called a well-known place in Perth who have quoted me $580 to fit the swaybars, castor arms and adjust/align. This seems a little excessive, I was also told this is because it is about 4 hours work. It's very possible I'm missing something here due to lack of knowledge but I would expect it to take 4 hours if i did it alone on my driveway with bricks, a jack and some stands. Does it really take a workshop who specialises in suspension 4 hours (on a hoist mind you) to unbolt swaybars, bolt whitelines back on smash in some castor rods and do all the adjusting???

If anybody could please help I'm pretty stuck as to what to do and was hoping to get some response to my first post above.

thanks again

[msports180]

That can seem a bit excessive, would be nice to see it broken down.

Fitting the sway bars is definnatly something you can fit yourself on the floor. Very easy to do, only thing to remember is to have the wheels level, or there will be tension on the sway bar.

Fitting castor arms also very easy, just measure them and make sure their even, make them the same length as the stockers and let the shop alingning it adjust them.

It would probably be worth doing a HICAS cancellor to in the back ~ $100 then possibly rear camber arms ~$200+, then get a good workshop do to a full 4 wheel alignment ~$100+

Take full advantage of what you have that way, they are an awesomely handling car when all alingned properly.

[itsme]

Neil, you're a legend mate thanks for replying was running out of places to try ask for help.

Have the wheels level.. thanks for that, hopefully I can borrow my mates good jack (I've sadly only got a scissor jack)

I'm not mechanically retarded just learning still so hopefully once I get it jacked up it should come down to logic but cheers for the tips like measuring the castor arms to the stockers it's simple things like this I may not of thought of. I'll give it all a go this weekend and see how it pans out.

I looked at cancelling the HICAS and camber arms etc but it's my daily and I'm trying to get the best medium between handling and comfort but if it makes the handling as awesome as you've mentioned perhaps I'll need to fork out more $$$.. The fun of modding cars

thanks again.

[msports180]

If you plan on playing with the car, then definatley invest in a good low profile jack, its easier, quicker and most importantly safer.

Once its in the air you will see its pretty basic.

Removing the HICAS will make no negative difference to comfort, just bin it. Camber arms can make a little more noise (well the cheaper one's do) if you dont want to go whole replacement arms with rose joints there are now one's out there with the turnbuckle's but still use a bush, not a rose joint, or you can get eccentric bushes, but these allow less adjustment.