Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all.

my 2nd post here.

yes i have done a search..

however there are 40 threads with the title hicas.

haven't been through em all but most and can't really find what i'm after.

so i just purchased a r32.

i asked the guy about the hicas light and he told me it's on cos of the after marker steering wheel.

after searching a few threads it seems that this is true, if you fit an aftermarket steering wheel the hicas comes on.

the guy that sold me the car said that the light being on will not affect the car.

i know i can do the diagnostic test but just need to know if it's alright if i leave it as it is? if it's just the after market steering wheel causing the light to come on?

or do i need to get proper boss kit or lock the hicas?

your help is appreciated.

thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338131-another-hicas-question-from-newbie/
Share on other sites

Fairly certain that if the light is on, then the HICAS is disabled (because there is a problem with it).

so does that means it's ok for me to leave it like that?

it just simply means at speeds over 80k's, the 4 wheel steering won't kick in and make the car understeer more?

thanks

=)

anyone able to give a firm answer on these questions?

if abs is disabled.. this is a major worry!

HICAS is seperate to ABS so dont worry there. it just isnt reading right from the steering so the light is on. Just get a lock bar and be done with it lol.

I must be thinking of ATTESSA sorry, ATTESSA and ABS share the same sensors and fuse, so when you pull it out it disables both. Or when ones not working, the other doesn't work.

HICAS is seperate to ABS so dont worry there. it just isnt reading right from the steering so the light is on. Just get a lock bar and be done with it lol.

the question is do i really need a lock bar?

any problems if i leave it just the way it is?

previous owner has had it like that for the whole time he has had the car.

if it's just the light on the dash and the all wheel steering that doesn't work then besides that it should be fine to leave it like that right???

surely someone can tell me this?

thanks!

It could be that the steering wheel isnt on straight, it's out by say 1 tooth, it's enough to trip the HICAS light. Can be corrected by putting the wheel back on with the wheels perfectly straight.

You can live with the HICAS light on, shouldn't see any problems, but for daily driving Nissan put it there as a safety thing to correct oversteer/understeer. It might actually save you from putting it into a gutter.

The only reason to lockbar it down is that HICAS is interfering or if HICAS is flat out malfunctioning, and usually it requires driving at the track to notice it.

you should pull off the steering wheel and check how the boss kit is interacting with the HICAS hub behind wheel/boss kit.

if the light is coming on straight away everytime you start the car then it might be another issue, most of the time if its the boss kit it wont come on till a couple of minutes of driving above 80kmh, or from what I understand anyway

This is what happened to me, no HICAS light then as soon as I went over 80 for a while it would come on and stay on. My Boss kit was on wrong and wasnt Turning my HICAS HUB correctly, there was a couple of degrees of slop in it

Pull your wheel off and have a look, then try the diagnostics. If your not gonna track the car then you may as well keep it on your car

you should pull off the steering wheel and check how the boss kit is interacting with the HICAS hub behind wheel/boss kit.

if the light is coming on straight away everytime you start the car then it might be another issue, most of the time if its the boss kit it wont come on till a couple of minutes of driving above 80kmh, or from what I understand anyway

This is what happened to me, no HICAS light then as soon as I went over 80 for a while it would come on and stay on. My Boss kit was on wrong and wasnt Turning my HICAS HUB correctly, there was a couple of degrees of slop in it

Pull your wheel off and have a look, then try the diagnostics. If your not gonna track the car then you may as well keep it on your car

my hicas comes on straight away after i put keys in, turn on ignition and start.

i'll try taking off the steering wheel but won't have a clue what i'm looking for though.

lol..

the question is do i really need a lock bar?

any problems if i leave it just the way it is?

previous owner has had it like that for the whole time he has had the car.

if it's just the light on the dash and the all wheel steering that doesn't work then besides that it should be fine to leave it like that right???

surely someone can tell me this?

thanks!

I think there is a fuse you could pull to completely deactivate it. then just leave it. I hate

what it does to my car above 80k and would rather be without it but that will come soon lol. my airbag light is always on but that is due to the clock spring being broken behind the steering wheel. that will stay that way till i get around to fixing it.

I think there is a fuse you could pull to completely deactivate it. then just leave it. I hate

what it does to my car above 80k and would rather be without it but that will come soon lol. my airbag light is always on but that is due to the clock spring being broken behind the steering wheel. that will stay that way till i get around to fixing it.

can u confirm it won't create any issues if i do it?

lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can also smell fuel in oil if that helps. 
    • Hello, after engine rebuild(new cylinder liners and piston rings, arp headstuds, metal cometic tripple layer gasket, all new main/rod bearings) and roughly 100km made I did measure compression and it’s (1-6) - 80, 60, 90, 120, 110, 135. It’s rb25det series 1 - hydraulic lifters. Measured on cold engine. Didn’t check on hot due to overall car problems such as broken 3rd gear, idle issues, misfire etc. I did smoke test only on 2nd and 5th cylinder bcs soldering iron used with this method broke itself. So after setting cams to side - side 90 left/right angle I can see smoke coming off from intake manifold and turbo exhaust flange. 5th didn’t notice any smoke. Shop did head, valve etc job but I assemble it by myself. So I thinking about lifters. I don’t remember if they were soft or not it was long time ago. In my opinion I didn’t bleed them and they can be opened more than they should be. Can it be more likely possible? Or timing can be off by 1 teeth and can cause such weird compression? But if timing would be out wouldn’t it be like such big difference across all cylinders? Please help I’m so sad it happened. 
    • Hey, yeah I really like the color. Only paint I'd rather have is KN6, but those are expensive. Right now I'm trying to get the car to the point where I can get it tuned to 370hp so the whole setup can be driven legally, and pass the next inspection that is already due anyway. Beyond that lots of rust fixing I'm afraid, winter project is most likely going to be a front end teardown and fixing the strut tower rust. I know these can be driven daily but I don't think I will do so anytime soon. Will post a build thread soon with a list of issues and futute plans.   Cheers
    • Wanted to reply to this topic. I'm in the somewhat same boat with our Stagea. I'm trying to install a different rear diff. The Stagea/Skyline uses mounts on top of the rear diff for the ATTESA pump. Any way you can relocate the pump? I did find this kit https://theskylineshed.com/products/nissan-oem-attesa-mounting-kit-to-suit-r32-r33-r34
    • So here's the deal, my wife picked up an S2 AWD Stagea. Super cool, clean car. Looks like the owner in Japan went track spec as it's got some heavy modifications including Exedy twin disk, tension rods, coilovers, GTR brakes, oil cooler & a Nismo 2 way rear diff. Now, cool mods for sure. But, she is just using this as a casual daily driver. The 2 way rear is AGGRESSIVE. It also has solid subframe bushings & poly diff bushings. So that doesn't help either. So far I've tried changing the diff fluid to the correct fluid. Even tried a little friction modifier. No help. This thing clunks, skips the tires & has some slight whine/NVH when driving. Might sound like I'm being picky, but just trying to find a better solution. Here in the states, it's impossible to find a Stagea rear diff. No luck. I do have a 300zx non-turbo diff. Same ratio, 5 bolt axles. On the Stagea, you need both front & rear diff ratios to match. This car is a 4.083. I'd like to just swap a normal rear diff into this thing. Nothing fancy. Even open diff is fine. She's not tracking the car LOL The difference is that the ATTESA pump mounts to the top of the rear diff. There are 3 total mounting points for the pump on top of the diff. With all this being said, what would be the best way to go about this? I could remove the Stagea diff & see if I could get somebody to possibly weld the 3 tabs/mounting points onto the 300zx diff so we could mount the pump on the 300zx diff. I could swap the internals from the 300zx into the Stagea diff but this is not in my comfort zone. Is it possible to mount the ATTESA pump to the underside of the car? Sorry for the paragraph. Just trying to figure out how to go about this. Any help is much appreciated! Stagea Differential - Note two top tabs, one bolt hole for ATTESA pump mounting   300zx Diff - No mounting tabs Also found this mounting kit ?? https://theskylineshed.com/products/nissan-oem-attesa-mounting-kit-to-suit-r32-r33-r34  
×
×
  • Create New...