Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No luck for me on torque. I was already using the init string valf posted. Not convinced my 327 is working. I've heard a great deal of the cheap Chinese 327's have faulty J1850 PWM capability. I've ordered a v-gate from Sydney.

Edited by BoostdR

It's kinda awesome, the more I look the more data I find. Even has stuff I didn't see on my consult 3. Updated with more pics in previous post. Update rate is fine. Best thing is it is stable. No crashes. Let's see if we can log. That would seal the deal.

Update rate is reported as 201ms if I'm reading it correctly

Edited by BoostdR
  • Like 1

I have another Chinese consult 3 on the way which they promise will be stable. Be interesting to find out if the replacement is. Although I think Scotty has a stable consult 3 with a different version of software.

BoostdR, is that with the same elm adapter you tried Torque with?

I've finally received my usb elm adapter, will start trying out things on my side but it's really cool to know HobDrive supports our cars :)

Will use it as a reference to make sure my adapter isn't faulty.

Pretty busy lately so I won't do much coding soon but I'm definitely still keen to get something cool to read sensors and read/reset DTC codes.

Thanks again BoostdR ;)

BoostdR, is that with the same elm adapter you tried Torque with?

I've finally received my usb elm adapter, will start trying out things on my side but it's really cool to know HobDrive supports our cars :)

Will use it as a reference to make sure my adapter isn't faulty.

Pretty busy lately so I won't do much coding soon but I'm definitely still keen to get something cool to read sensors and read/reset DTC codes.

Thanks again BoostdR ;)

No worries Valf. I tried torque today with the new adaptor but had no luck getting it to connect to the adaptor or ecu, I'm sure it's possible for the adaptor anyway. May need to remove all my previous setting and start again.

HobDrive have kindly given me a 50% off coupon code for the app which I am allowed to give to SAU members. I just can't publicly post it. PM me if you would like the code. :D

Matt

Edited by BoostdR
  • Like 2

I might dig out my OBDLink and see if I can get it to work with the HobDrive demo. I never had any luck with their scan tool app, but it'd be a nice win if it works with an alternative app! Im not going to hold my breath though :P

I have the full version up and running, haven't noticed any major difference from the demo version, but it's early days.

I did learn the mini Bluetooth Chinese ELM327's in a version 2.1 don't work as they are a clone chip. The v1.4 and 1.5 are better apparently. Also most android based double din stereos have a non standard cut down Bluetooth stack so most Bluetooth ELM327's don't work anyway.

Anyway the main screen really needs to have the sensors customized to be of value to us. This can be done, but at simple coding level. I'll look at it when I'm at work next.

I haven't had a chance to clear any CEL's as I don't have any atm.

There is some level of graphing/logging for fuel trims and lambda but nothing like torque or Nissan Data Scan offer with selected sensor X-Y axis logging.

There is a fast scan option which looks to double the update rate.

I'll have a read through the manual prob on Sat as I have a couple of cars to dyno tomorrow.

Matt

My replacement consult 3 arrived. It's just as unstable as my original. Seems to be the norm.

I asked hobdrive to customize the general screen to our sensors. Will see how it goes. Been nice and stable for me so far.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...