Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Just changed my clutch master cylinder on my r32 to a r33 master because i needed a shorter one for my engine set up.

Running a rb20det gearbox and slave cylinder.

I have bleed the lines and i now dont have enough travel in my slave to disengage my clutch.

Do i need to match the r33 master with a r33 slave??? or did i just stuff something up when i put the motor and gearbox in!

Did you adjust the master pushrod?

The master you have on it should work. You have not set it up correctly

As in the thread on the fork where it connects to the clutch pedal? i wound it all the way out so it would connect onto the clutch pedal.

Sorry newb at this I haven't done any of this kind of work on clutches befor, want to sort it myself

As in the thread on the fork where it connects to the clutch pedal? i wound it all the way out so it would connect onto the clutch pedal.

Sorry newb at this I haven't done any of this kind of work on clutches befor, want to sort it myself

Yes the thread on the rod that goes through the fork that attaches to the clutch pedal. If you haven't gone far enough, then it will be wrong.....if you went too far, then it will be wrong.

There is really no way to describe how to adjust it correctly (well there is but I'm not going to type an essay here as there's too much information)

What I can tell you is if the pedal feels like there is nothing there until the very bottom then you need to wind the rod out of the fork more. Or if the pedal feels like it has pressure from the very top but it still doesn't disengage the clutch then you have gone too far and are blocking the recovery port inside the master cylinder so it doesn't work how it should.

Learning is fun aint it. ;)

Yes the thread on the rod that goes through the fork that attaches to the clutch pedal. If you haven't gone far enough, then it will be wrong.....if you went too far, then it will be wrong.

There is really no way to describe how to adjust it correctly (well there is but I'm not going to type an essay here as there's too much information)

What I can tell you is if the pedal feels like there is nothing there until the very bottom then you need to wind the rod out of the fork more. Or if the pedal feels like it has pressure from the very top but it still doesn't disengage the clutch then you have gone too far and are blocking the recovery port inside the master cylinder so it doesn't work how it should.

Learning is fun aint it. ;)

Cheers mate got it sorted just kept bleeding and eventually got it yeehaar! Dosen't feel the same but at least it works. the clutch i got is really heavy so i guess its a struggle for it, its a OGR brass clutch, there a prety crazy clutch

Now i have another prob just took it for its first spin with another motor in and something went pop when under first boost and now the revs wont drop below 3000rpm! guess i'll have to put another post up!!

Thanks for your reply buddy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...