Stagea Handling

[chef_stagea]

hi all.

just wanted to head from some of you guys what kind of handling set ups your running. hasnt been a while lot of it of late...

im looking to get mine on rails...

i currently have

-Tein Type CS dampener and height adj, set hard and low

-R33 GTR nismo swaybars,

-isc rear camber and toe arms

-greddy front strut brace

following on its way

-rear strut brace

-adj solid caster bushes

now the nismo bars i found came with a few solid bushes for the rear, they went either side of the bar, and i used the old soft bushes eitherside of the chassis frame... is it worth upgrading these?

the D bushes (all 4) that connect via the bracket to the chassis are also stock, soft but not perished.

and at the front where the end of the bar goes to that linkage, thats stock, and moves with 1 finger with ease... i suspect a bit of easy moment here is needed? for when it bounces around.... or should i look at moving this on?

what eles would be legit value for money to do? ive heard of these sub-frame locking bushes (~$100) are ok...

i spoke to mike who has told me i must get upper control arms to wind out some camber up front...

let us know what you have, tried, like or hated

[M I K E]

stiffer susp isn't really the best way to get rid of body roll (that's what you've got upgraded swaybars for now) if you have damper adjustability on the coilovers you can run them a little bit softer and she'll handle nicer

rear strut brace is an awesome mod in wagons as i'm sure you remember from your old stageas

and adjustable front upper arms are a good idea if you want to wind out some camber up front (or add some negative in in my case )

like i said, make sure all of your standard rubber bushes are in good condition or if they aren't it's a good reason to upgrade to nolathane ones

remember your roll centres if handling is important to you.. don't dump the car too much and aim to have the lca's parallel to the ground

and a good wheel alignment with some good rubber on your wheels obviously

[KiwiRS4T]

In my opinion subframe locking bushes are only good for the track. There they help you to get power down earlier coming out of a corner. On the road they are of little use and just amplify the diff rumble - especially in a wagon. In the instructions they say to put them on for track days and then remove them but although they are not that hard to do I can't be stuffed with that and just leave them on. Front castor arms are good - with more castor you get straightline stability at high speeds. Is your rear sway bar the 24mm solid item?

[pipster11]

what rear strut brace fits?

a few ppl have mentioned it now, i would like to try it for myself

[KiwiRS4T]

what rear strut brace fits?

a few ppl have mentioned it now, i would like to try it for myself

I think mine is Greddy but there are about three brands available - they make WGN34 specific ones - don't know about M35. If you keep the correct allen key handy they take less than a minute to remove if you need the space.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...l&hl=greddy

[SMOKEYV35]

mine is on greddy coilovers, with urethane bushes and a sub-frame bush kit, and front and rear braces. the rear brace is a greddy one.

i'm pretty happy with the handling, it's quite neutral with just a hint of oversteer before the fronts wheels pull the car straight.

one thing i have noticed though, is my car isn't even that low visually, but the steering arms are already on a slight upward angle - so if you lower the car too much then, yeh bump steer.

[kidafa]

remember your roll centres if handling is important to you.. don't dump the car too much and aim to have the lca's parallel to the ground

and a good wheel alignment with some good rubber on your wheels obviously

+1 on not to low

and all these mods are pointless with that cheap rubber youve got whats that run the engine in pull the shaft and wear them out and get new ones

[-RBD2-]

Hey Adam

by "like it's on rails" do you mean Jack stands?

[chef_stagea]

Hey Adam

by "like it's on rails" do you mean Jack stands?

blow me

[dirtyRS4]

lawl..

[kidafa]

If any ones after the following ive got them up for sale cheap cars on stands being stripped so will post out cheap....

-Tein Type CS dampener and height adj

-R33 GTR nismo swaybars,

-ISC rear camber and toe arms

-Greddy front strut brace

[M I K E]

Edited September 27, 2010 by M I K E

[BensDR30]

Lol Chris, how cheap?

But seriously folks... I'm running a pretty mild setup on the street - fresh S-Tune shocks/springs and a 22mm solid rear bar. It certainly doesn't handle 'on rails' but it's significantly better than stock.

[alu-siv_stagea]

Hey guys

Now that where on the subject i got a nismo rear strut brace off a mate last night from his wrecked R32 GTR im just wondering if it will fit in the back of my RSFOUR ?

Edited September 27, 2010 by alu-siv_stagea

[-RBD2-]

Hey Eddie the strut tops are indentical so the tops should fit

I had a homemade rear strut brace in the back of mine using r32 strut brace ends

maybe just the length of the bar will be different,I'm unsure

if you get stuck my rear strut brace will be going up for sale soon as I salvaged it from the wreck

[alu-siv_stagea]

Thanks Rod, yeh im going to try it soon i just thaught i would ask first to see if anyone else has done it, im now hoping its the same length

[rasored]

hi all.

just wanted to head from some of you guys what kind of handling set ups your running. hasnt been a while lot of it of late...

im looking to get mine on rails...

i currently have

-Tein Type CS dampener and height adj, set hard and low

-R33 GTR nismo swaybars,

-isc rear camber and toe arms

-greddy front strut brace

following on its way

-rear strut brace

-adj solid caster bushes

now the nismo bars i found came with a few solid bushes for the rear, they went either side of the bar, and i used the old soft bushes eitherside of the chassis frame... is it worth upgrading these?

the D bushes (all 4) that connect via the bracket to the chassis are also stock, soft but not perished.

and at the front where the end of the bar goes to that linkage, thats stock, and moves with 1 finger with ease... i suspect a bit of easy moment here is needed? for when it bounces around.... or should i look at moving this on?

what eles would be legit value for money to do? ive heard of these sub-frame locking bushes (~$100) are ok...

i spoke to mike who has told me i must get upper control arms to wind out some camber up front...

let us know what you have, tried, like or hated

If you have a series 1 C34 Jap Stag then the front wheel track should be an inch narrower , causing under steer , even on 18" wheels , put some inch spacers on the front and the under steer goes and dose not give over steer !!

[bentwagon]

Dont know if this will help

http://www.ikeya-f.co.jp/en/product_notice/foot_works.html

[stasis]

Hei Cheef,

actually in terms of handling it boils down to suspension. First is th shock absober and springs. I will choose the Blistein with eibach springs. I kno i know. Ive got a TEIN. But i think Blisteing is worth it. Cos i have a 100 series cruiser and i put on the blistein shockies and man the difference it made to the car.

Secpmd are the Swaybars to keep the bodyroll in check.

Third. Good alignemnt. I think SK recommended a "all round" setting on the suspension thread. And this is a few years amd the recommendations are still there i think.

As for sturt brace i dont know cos i havent tried it for myself. So i cant tell you there.

Last but not least tyres. And i think its also a matter of preference. Dont go for the cheap chinese or taiwanese tyres. They allrite for normall cars but i dont think it pars uip with high performance. For me personally Goodyear GSD3. The lowest i go is the Maxxiss MAZ1. Sumitomo is also good and i think the model is HTC2 if i remember correctly.

Hopes this helps. Its my 2C worth.

Cheers,

Yudy

[stasis]

Hei Cheef,

actually in terms of handling it boils down to suspension. First is th shock absober and springs. I will choose the Blistein with eibach springs. I kno i know. Ive got a TEIN. But i think Blisteing is worth it. Cos i have a 100 series cruiser and i put on the blistein shockies and man the difference it made to the car.

Secpmd are the Swaybars to keep the bodyroll in check.

Third. Good alignemnt. I think SK recommended a "all round" setting on the suspension thread. And this is a few years amd the recommendations are still there i think.

As for sturt brace i dont know cos i havent tried it for myself. So i cant tell you there.

Last but not least tyres. And i think its also a matter of preference. Dont go for the cheap chinese or taiwanese tyres. They allrite for normall cars but i dont think it pars uip with high performance. For me personally Goodyear GSD3. The lowest i go is the Maxxiss MAZ1. Sumitomo is also good and i think the model is HTC2 if i remember correctly.

Hopes this helps. Its my 2C worth.

Cheers,

Yudy