Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a series 1 with a forged RB26 engine and manual box.

Have decided I need an LSD, Question is what will fit ?

Ideally I would like to keep the front as is because changing it is more work than the rear. Ive found an RS FOUR S and can have both diffs if neccessary

Anyone know if the ratios are the same as series 1 cars or indeed if the diffs will even fit .

Thanks in advance for any help.

Can't say for sure but I think they are the same: just under 4.1

I'm going for a GTR diff partly for the thicker axles (and also because the engine is out anyway I can change both). So I guess you haven't snapped any axles yet?!

Can't say for sure but I think they are the same: just under 4.1

I'm going for a GTR diff partly for the thicker axles (and also because the engine is out anyway I can change both). So I guess you haven't snapped any axles yet?!

Not yet but I am going to santa pod next weekend so if anything is going to go it will probably go then.

Main question was whether the RS Four S had GTR diffs as I know it has HICAS . If not then the difffs are probably the same ratio which is good news.

Not yet but I am going to santa pod next weekend so if anything is going to go it will probably go then.

Main question was whether the RS Four S had GTR diffs as I know it has HICAS . If not then the difffs are probably the same ratio which is good news.

GTR have 6x1 bolt pattern for the half shafts Stagea are 3X2

Be sure to post up your times!

The joys of not owning a RSfour S from the start.lol. Suppose it was afactory option. Going nismo should save quite a few hassles, has a install kit included. I found this helpful when looking into an 1.5 or 2 way lsd option. Part no seem to be the same? Download the installation manual and check diff type -compare (R200/R200V)and final drive ratios. IMO expensive thru nengun but cheaper at jap auctions. btw US is also a good place to buy parts atm.

http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...lsd/gt_lsd.html

Edited by dirtyRS4

Going by Jason's handy chart it looks as though most Stageas are 4.083 apart from the manual S2 so if that's what you've got then its a 4.111 viscous lsd - wrong ratio and viscous aren't all that flash either. However if you are happy with the viscous diff then you will need to change front and rear. At least that way if the rear lsd packs up you can get a GTR one (also 4.111) - or other aftermarket lsd - and the front will still be right

Going by Jason's handy chart it looks as though most Stageas are 4.083 apart from the manual S2 so if that's what you've got then its a 4.111 viscous lsd - wrong ratio and viscous aren't all that flash either. However if you are happy with the viscous diff then you will need to change front and rear. At least that way if the rear lsd packs up you can get a GTR one (also 4.111) - or other aftermarket lsd - and the front will still be right

Thanks guys

I have just bought the S as a runabout as the current Stagea is no longer a "town car" and I need an estate

A vicous lsd would be an improvement for sure and as its pretty easy to swop and I have both cars I was simply going to swop the rerar diffs over (as long as compatible)

Looks like the diffs are different after all so changing both difffs on both cars is a no no , I will just have to carry on lokin for an lsd for the series 1.

Trouble is finding one in the uk is almost impossible .

Thanks guys

I have just bought the S as a runabout as the current Stagea is no longer a "town car" and I need an estate

A vicous lsd would be an improvement for sure and as its pretty easy to swop and I have both cars I was simply going to swop the rerar diffs over (as long as compatible)

Looks like the diffs are different after all so changing both difffs on both cars is a no no , I will just have to carry on lokin for an lsd for the series 1.

Trouble is finding one in the uk is almost impossible .

Try ebay - there are some Japanese people advertise there or posibly ebay.au - quite a bit of RB stuff.
I have a series 1 with a forged RB26 engine and manual box.

Have decided I need an LSD, Question is what will fit ?

Ideally I would like to keep the front as is because changing it is more work than the rear. Ive found an RS FOUR S and can have both diffs if neccessary

Anyone know if the ratios are the same as series 1 cars or indeed if the diffs will even fit .

Thanks in advance for any help.

So you have the stagea diff/sump on the 26? need to know what your front diff is first then we can advise you of the options

So you have the stagea diff/sump on the 26? need to know what your front diff is first then we can advise you of the options

It has standard Series 1 RS Four diffs.

Re the standing 1/4.

Well I said I would post the time so even though it was not what I hoped ...........However this was entirely due to my rubbish driving

It was my first ever attempt on a strip which was pretty obvious Time was 13.09 with a crap start (0-60 ft was 2.5 sec ) And then to make things worse I missed forth gear completely

At 1000ft speed was 106 I missed gear and and went over the line in neutral at 104 mph

so no doubt that the car is very much quicker than me !

Going by Jason's handy chart it looks as though most Stageas are 4.083 apart from the manual S2 so if that's what you've got then its a 4.111 viscous lsd - wrong ratio and viscous aren't all that flash either. However if you are happy with the viscous diff then you will need to change front and rear. At least that way if the rear lsd packs up you can get a GTR one (also 4.111) - or other aftermarket lsd - and the front will still be right

My car use to be series 2 auto

I now run a series 2 S manual rear end

According to the nismo chart I have 4.083 in the front and 4.111 in the rear

My car use to be series 2 auto

I now run a series 2 S manual rear end

According to the nismo chart I have 4.083 in the front and 4.111 in the rear

That's correct. In that case I guess I was mistaken to suggest that the OP has the "wrong ratio" and in fact it will be near enough. According to my calculator that is just over half of one percent difference so I guess the Attessa is capable of overlooking that small difference and the OP will be fine with putting that diff in the rear only.

In my case I have an R33GTR diff to go in the back and i will put one in the front as well because the motor is out anyway and RB26 front diffs are a dime a dozen because people put RB26s into two wheel drive cars all the time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I didnt present too many conclusions because I wanted your opinions and feedback based on your own experiences. I don't know the exact material, but it is similar to concrete and therfor only has valuable strength in compression. The forces on the set material once the head is removed would mostly be in compression since the grout wants to retain its shape and the block wants to return to its relaxed state since it's still within the elastic region. The grout would theoretically make the block more rigid. The exact amount would take a better setup on my end. Thought experiment: Instead of aliens, twist your favorite fleshlite. Now fill it with grout and allow it to sit for a week. Now try to twist it again. Observe what you see. Now get your other one and blow into it. Observe what you see. Now put it into a can and fill the space between your fleshlite and the can. After it sets blow into it. Less movement in torsion and less expansion i hope.   
    • Hi. Yeah i think that DIS-008 should be ok too but i rather asked. The R8 coils are "sadly" no go for me cuz every solution is for forward plenum. The coils are too tall and one of the(4/5 DK) would not fit under stock J-pipe. And being this NA RB20 i dont even know where to get some forward plenum.(and of course i would need other stuff like custom AFM/ECU etc) and that is kinda non sense for NA without boost. I just looking for solutions for my case 🙂  I try look into those Yaris/Corolla ones.  
    • Damn it, no, I topped up before I got to yours I really should look at Costco locations more when I'm out and about burning through fuel
    • Did you hit the one 5 minutes down the road from my place before heading back south? 😛
    • Costco uses Mobile as a supplier, I always get Costco 98 when I'm near one, they are typically about 30 cents or more cheaper than the local Mobile
×
×
  • Create New...