Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just wondering if someone can recommend me a adhesive tape remover on a chrome/metal surface around me door windows. Its the left overs from a double sided tape and i used WD40 but it still leaves the last bit and cant get them off without scratching the metal surface.

And after that what is the best to get the shine of the metal surface and if it is scratched is there any way to fix the small scratches? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. :yes:

Cheers

Try to hunt down a product called "Prepsol", it's used in spray painting as a surface-prep, and is designed to remove any grease, oil, grime etc from steel before priming, works a treat on the sticky left over form double-sided tape etc. Spray it on, leave it for a bit, then run your thumb along it (not your nail), and the tape should form a ball and roll off. And provided the chrome doesn't have a coating (ie a layer of clear) any metal polish will do the trick to shine it up and take out the small scratches. :yes:

Yeah get some prepsol onto it, can get it from any auto or paints store...

Other than that, any goo remover or "dissolve it" product will work well. As for bringing up the shine afterwards, use a cotton wad metal polish (comes in a tin and is like a big piece of cotton wool, you tear bits off it and use it to polish shiny things).

Thanks soo much for the information guys... :/

i already tried eucalyptus oil but not much success but it worked for some extent.. I ll try prepsol and "cotton wad metal polish" this weekend. Will i be able to buy them from autobarn or supercheap auto?

and should i be careful that these does not touch the paint? or it wont have much effect on paint. (prepsol will be ok with paint i guess since it is used as a surface prep).. because it is a small metal line i will have to be very careful if they are bad for the paint.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...