Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

not even that. e85 loves being rich, seen heaps of cars make more power going richer. most recent one that comes to mind was an R35 that kept gaining power as it was fattened up near 10:1 (on a lambda scale calibrated for petrol obviously). i *think* with E85, EGT's come into it more. its not balancing A:F ratio and hp, but EGT's sort of make it 3 dimensional if that makes sense?

interesting, we just did some testing on a S14. i will list the below in afr even though we use lambda

bp98 230rwkw on 16psi @ 11.8afr

E85 252rwkw on 16psi @ 12.4afr

E85 244rwkw on 16psi @ 12.1 afr

E85 239.9rwkw on 16psi @ 11.8afr

no timing changes.

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

True, 12+ is fine. i tune in lambda though so 0.84 on E85. We have found atm that pump e85 is a little more like e75 so we fatten it up abit we are seeing a 0.5-0.7 jump in afr or 0.05 lambda towards LEAN when refilling with e85 so be aware.

It seems I am the only customer of Springvale Caltex so I dont think it will be a problem for quite a while. I hope the stuff doesnt go off like petrol...

If I set the winter blend for around 11.5 it should work out around 12.0 - 12.2 on e85, that would be fine right?

It seems I am the only customer of Springvale Caltex so I dont think it will be a problem for quite a while. I hope the stuff doesnt go off like petrol...

If I set the winter blend for around 11.5 it should work out around 12.0 - 12.2 on e85, that would be fine right?

yeah thats what we are doing (source of fuel is the same) until we can get a 100% fix on ethanol content.

interesting, we just did some testing on a S14. i will list the below in afr even though we use lambda

bp98 230rwkw on 16psi @ 11.8afr

E85 252rwkw on 16psi @ 12.4afr

E85 244rwkw on 16psi @ 12.1 afr

E85 239.9rwkw on 16psi @ 11.8afr

no timing changes.

from my personal experiance i have tested with leaner vs richer and i did see about 20hp gain on richer being that you add alot more timing bout you will loose hp if you do not add any timing when making it richer

interesting, we just did some testing on a S14. i will list the below in afr even though we use lambda

bp98 230rwkw on 16psi @ 11.8afr

E85 252rwkw on 16psi @ 12.4afr

E85 244rwkw on 16psi @ 12.1 afr

E85 239.9rwkw on 16psi @ 11.8afr

no timing changes.

From what reading I have done, E85 is rather different from 98. 98 has a sweet spot where it burns well with AFRs of 11 - 12.5 out the tail pipe (11 being a guess because I forget the actual figure) where anything inbetween is good for making peak torque or power.

Now I also forget the exact numbers for E85, however the lean max and rich max suposedly have a massive gap between them with a small tollorance for each. For example rich max being say 7:1, lean max being 13:1 and running at say 10:1 would acheive poor results.

I noticed this when trying to work out why people were pulling almost ALL timing out of their tunes to run the E85 while using a 'reasonable' AFR.

Realistically I know hardly anything about the fuel and dont plan to, yet its interesting how wildly its properties vary from 98.

I think everyone should stop listing AFR's for E85 in the petrol scale. Please list only Lamba - which for max power would be about 0.85 lambda (AFR = 8.3 for E85!!!, but 12.5 for petrol)

The AFR people are quoting is grossly incorrect and will only cause problems with understanding.

There should be less need to go richer than 0.85 lamba with E85 as putting a ratio of 8.3 :1 air to E85 in your car will result in better cooling than petrol at 11.0:1 (ie. the reason people run rich is already covered when using E85 since it's runs more fuel to air anyway).

To answer the OPs question. You should expect bang on 300rwkw with that setup and fuel change. About 10% increase for changing to E85 running 0.85 lambda with both.

Yes, this is coming from a keyboard warrior - not dyno operator. But the chemistry make sense to me.

Topic 2.

Joeyjoejoe's 555cc injectors must be freaks, or the rail pressure is higher than the injectors rated pressure. With a 5% denser fuel but requiring about 45% more mass, you'd need 38% more volume. So you're 555cc should only provide enough petrol equivalent power as 405cc injectors (ie. maybe 250rwkw but certainly not 320rwkw). But then injectors are a dynamic thing and hard to calculate flow theoretically.

740cc injectors on the other hand should be PLENTY for 320rwkw or so (if your pump can supply it).

Edited by simpletool

From wiki (but significant figures improved):

Table:

The following table shows the range of air fuel ratios typically used for burning gasoline, E85, and pure ethanol (E100) under an assortment of assumed operating conditions:

post-23086-1285738056_thumb.jpg

Edited by simpletool

From what I've read about e85 is that people are getting great results over BP98 because in most cases they've hit the limit of boost where they can not put anymore boost in otherwise the engine will ping.

So then they go and change injectors, fuel pump and run e85. Add 5psi of boost and take timing out and get an extra 30-40kw out of the car. So from what i've read its the high octane that allows people to run much higher boost and take advantage of the timing differences and get more power.

If you dont change the boost level too much then I doubt there will be much of a difference in power just from changing the fuel?

i went from getting consistently between the 300-310 range @ 18-19psi, but when i changed AFM's and started using E10 or 100 octane fuel and turned the boost up to 21-22 i am in the 340-350rwkw range

so if I personally were to change to e85 i would be wanting to turn the boost up to 24+ and try for 380rwkw

From what I've read about e85 is that people are getting great results over BP98 because in most cases they've hit the limit of boost where they can not put anymore boost in otherwise the engine will ping.

So then they go and change injectors, fuel pump and run e85. Add 5psi of boost and take timing out and get an extra 30-40kw out of the car. So from what i've read its the high octane that allows people to run much higher boost and take advantage of the timing differences and get more power.

If you dont change the boost level too much then I doubt there will be much of a difference in power just from changing the fuel?

i went from getting consistently between the 300-310 range @ 18-19psi, but when i changed AFM's and started using E10 or 100 octane fuel and turned the boost up to 21-22 i am in the 340-350rwkw range

so if I personally were to change to e85 i would be wanting to turn the boost up to 24+ and try for 380rwkw

No, the 20-40kw gains are on the same boost level. E85 allows more timing and/or boost due to its higher octane.

so should i get my car re-tuned before my track day thurs? or is it fine?

Your tuner would have had to adjust the fuelling to change from 98 to E85. It wouldnt make the power it is now if hadnt been done.

If the timing is a little low thats great for a track day, extra security. The low boost of 15psi is also good for the track day extra security.

Give it hell on thursday and you know in the back of your mind there is plenty left in it.

from my personal experiance i have tested with leaner vs richer and i did see about 20hp gain on richer being that you add alot more timing bout you will loose hp if you do not add any timing when making it richer

this was just to test A/F. It was not a normal tuned to each a/f as such (hence why i added no timing changes at the bottom)... customer just wanted to run a few runs a different a/f's to compare out put. Best way would have been to fully tune it at each A/F but it was a freebie so i wasn't able to donate the required time to do it. Car was left @ 0.84 as this is where it works best.... yes it will take more timing when its richer but E85 will take like 5 or more degrees after it peaks without any gains.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...