Jump to content
SAU Community

Maxing Small 21u Rb25det R33 Turbine Housing With High Flow. What Power Would You Expect?


Recommended Posts

I did read many posts in regarding to high flowing with the factory 21U RB25det R33 turbine housings. I did some testing in it with a modified exhaust wheel, I like to share this information publicly and I believe this is the absolute max this thing can flow.

I also managed to hold 20psi flat with that small housing using a wastegate controller and a high pressure actuator on 98 fuel.

The max power it managed was a stunning 297rwkws when its cold, with final run of 273rwkws consistent. The little sucker was burning red hot.

357658.jpg

357658boost.jpg

Video footage for all 3x runs are recorded:

video.JPG

I'm little bit concert with high back pressure. So this profile will not yet be commercially available after further testing and examination for component wear.

very nice, may i ask what supporting mods are used to achieve the above power figures, besides the already stated? also what would be a ball park figure on getting one of these done if it were to go commericially available? cheers and good job.

It runs off a factory standard rebuild engine with stock engine head with fuel mods. There is nothing in there that could alter the behavior of the turbo on a stock setup.

The heat would be a major problem. We did a check up run after the turbo cooled down, made 293rwkws. lol Any thing above 270rwkws for this housing isn't consistent. I will remove this turbo off the test car in few weeks time and see what the bearings and collars be like, If nothing is excessive then this will be replacing the current 240rwkws profile.

Its the same car he run 300+kw in last week with a different turbo..

Man that car has a different turbo in it every week... :happy:

Power curve actually looks pretty sweet too..

I have achieved similar results on more than 1 rb25 using a highflowed rb25 turbo with the OP6 housing and tolulene mixed fuel running a very agressive tune (all supporting mods including cams and a VERY freeflowing exhaust).

I have never posted dyno charts (and don't intend to) because some keyboard warrior is just going to call me a liar.

what about exhaust manifold gas temps? i wouldnt be worried about the turbo... its the valves i would be worried for!

plus the extreame temps isnt going to help with knock and summer is around the corner... i would be toning this down a bit for safety

  MANWHORE said:
I have achieved similar results on more than 1 rb25 using a highflowed rb25 turbo with the OP6 housing and tolulene mixed fuel running a very agressive tune (all supporting mods including cams and a VERY freeflowing exhaust).

I have never posted dyno charts (and don't intend to) because some keyboard warrior is just going to call me a liar.

we are talking pump 98 here no jungle juice.

impressive, but, to me it looks laggy for a std 33 housing! never thought id say that about a factory housing lol.

a bar at ~3700 and full boost at ~4000.

looks very similar to a OP6 / 3076 curve. a good cheaper? alternative.

nevertheless a good achievement for a 33 housing. good street only turbo.

dont worry about the heat, its not like you would have it that hot on the street...

  femno said:
impressive, but, to me it looks laggy for a std 33 housing! never thought id say that about a factory housing lol.

a bar at ~3700 and full boost at ~4000.

looks very similar to a OP6 / 3076 curve. a good cheaper? alternative.

nevertheless a good achievement for a 33 housing. good street only turbo.

dont worry about the heat, its not like you would have it that hot on the street...

I agree, its not like you are pumping that power out continuously on the street but an egt gauge would be a good idea. With a smaller exducer you wouldnt loose all that much top end, as the nozzle is the restriction, but it will come on much earlier.

I have 20 psi by 3k, dropping to 17 at redline, I plan to try the added spring first but what actuator was this running?

post-63525-1285677569_thumb.jpg

Its running a high pressure actuator with a gate controller. Its not possible to hold boost on the actuator alone. and that is a 23psi atmospheric scaled actuator.

The power curve looks pretty average compare to the ATR43G3s, but on road this is very responsive, comes in boost nice and early on 1st, 2nd, 3rd, totally different driving ability compare to .82 rears.

Everytime i read your threads and all the power and response your getting from hi-flows etc it just confuses me more which one to go for! haha

  femno said:
impressive, but, to me it looks laggy for a std 33 housing! never thought id say that about a factory housing lol.

a bar at ~3700 and full boost at ~4000.

looks very similar to a OP6 / 3076 curve. a good cheaper? alternative.

nevertheless a good achievement for a 33 housing. good street only turbo.

dont worry about the heat, its not like you would have it that hot on the street...

Ask Tao to post up a ramp rate comparison, ive had a few cars come in lately that are being tuned on unrealistic ramp rates, this ramp rate moves the curve around alot. the above graph will make 18o-200rwkw @ 4000 by runnning a pretty popular Dyno Dynamics ramp rate.... makes for a nice graph but unrealistic.

  Arthur T3 said:
Its the same car he run 300+kw in last week with a different turbo..

Man that car has a different turbo in it every week... :)

You do realise he owns/works for a turbo company Hypergear and that car is a demo vehicle...

I wonder just how hot it would run when pushed hard.

I see people saying it would be OK for good power on the street, but personally that would mean dead engine in my hands.

  GTScotT said:
I wonder just how hot it would run when pushed hard.

I see people saying it would be OK for good power on the street, but personally that would mean dead engine in my hands.

@ 270 we could do run after run without issue @ 290+ it was starting to heat up and required constant timing chances to keep it happy. do 2 or 3 runs and the timing would fall back to where it was @ 270... then it would do run after run @ that timing all day long with around 3 degrees headroom

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...