Turbo Change

[southern_tango]

Need to change my turbo,so, can it be done DIY style?Is it only the 6 bolts on the dump pipe,the 4 bolts grabing the manifold,the 2 oil lines and the oil dump pipe?

Any piece of advise will be welcome...

[gfunkk]

man its a pretty big job but can be done DIY, it just takes ages and is hard work

[OMGGTR]

9 bolts holding it in place ( dump and manifold) undo them without f**king anything and its a matter of 2x 24m i think water banjos and the top oil feed bolt which is a 15m i think... the bottom oil drain should just pull out if u take off the clamp.... change over is simple... but the work after like tuning etc.. for the new turbo u cant do well unless u tune cars for a living.. lol

[KiwiRS4T]

Real men do it themselves (I don't). It is fairly straightforward but fiddly. Be prepared to snap studs and have to replace them.

[QWK32]

Have a look in the DIY/Tutorual section, there will be something over there, something like R33 turbo into a R32 is a common tutorial. I know it's not a stagea but it's basically the same thing.

Give yourself a couple of days to get it done in, just in case. Think about soaking all the turbo bolts in some WD40/Inox/CRC the day before pulling it down, and if they start binding up coming off wind them back on a bit, give them a spray and slowly work them off. Its also a good idea to change both the gaskets to the turbo while it's off. Just take it slow and steady and it should be relatively easy, start rushing the job and your bound to stuff it up.

[RubyRS4]

As above ^^^

Its not a hard job really, just alot of work and fiddly things to do. But I've changed over a few turbos now, so it gets easier for me

[zei20l]

+ 1 on changing ALL gaskets while its off. Dont skimp on them, the last thing you want to do it change gaskets 6 months down the track after all this hard work.

remember to remove the water and oil lines BEFORE you try to take the turbo and manifold off. many people dont and bend the lines too much and they never go back. if you can stretch the budget, get a set of braided oil and water lines. well worth the money and trouble.

when removing the manifold. dont take each nut off one at a time. do them as per the service manual, there will be an order that you should remove the nuts in. this will stop the last nut from getting stuck.

if you find its pulling out the stud with the nut, just let it come out, youre not going to break it. you can put in a new stud.

[GoldZilla]

Did mine with the help of my old man a few years back (ok, actually, he did a majority of the work...). It's a fiddly and time consuming job, but not hard in a technical aspect. I think we did it in about 5hrs, which is not bad considering he'd never worked on anything with a turbocharged car before, despite 40-odd years of tinkling with cars in just about every area except major electrics or auto boxes.

[southern_tango]

Thanks,for all the answers...though that the water/oil lines were the difficult part as I already changed my dump pipe so the main difference are the 4 bolts holding the turbo.

It really happens in a bad moment ,I need to get the 100000 Ks. major service and the brakes(started to get parts to do the R33 swap)

Every thing happened at the same time...but think that turbo is first cause I feel like driving a vacum cleaner...and all the options but short of cash(get an R34 turbo,send mine to be fix,pry and wait until somebody gets rid of a hi flowed/hi performance one at acheap price)...

[l_uk3y]

It can definitely be done.

Hardest part will be space and bleeding knuckles, and in my case I found the Coolant lines due to unforeseen issues.

Luke

[66yostagea]

I've done it and yes it was a PITA. That 24mm banjo was the worst. Had to get a ring/OE and cut the ring part off and use a tube for leverage. Dont forget the lock tabs for the turbo bolts. An absolute must. Lots of WD etc if you take the manny off. I boke 4 studs and one , at No6, was not there. If you break studs you can get a mobile guy to come out. They drill with left hand bits which tend to ease the broken part out.

Before you start get a big pak of Band Aids.

[zei20l]

Before you start get a big pak of Band Aids.

Best advice ever

[BensDR30]

Replace all studs, nuts and washers while you have it apart. Otherwise the ones that survived the disassembly will snap when you put it back together...

[pipster11]

when i did it someone suggested a technique to use and i dodn't brake anything

if the dump bots start getting tight, just go back the other way for a turn or so and give it another go

add some wd40 when that happens too

and wd it well in advance too

[66yostagea]

Yeah, those RB studs are a weak link. Dont forget if you do break a stud you can get the mobile "Stud" man to get them out. As I said before a local, yep on Mt Tamborine had all the good left hand drill bits. And he got them out of the block with the motor in place. Big relief,

[PetroDola]

when i did it someone suggested a technique to use and i dodn't brake anything

if the dump bots start getting tight, just go back the other way for a turn or so and give it another go

add some wd40 when that happens too

and wd it well in advance too

i worked out a good technique when doing the rolla gt25 hiflow diy.

I had a bolt with a washer head that was hitting the dump and didnt have enough clearance..so i angle grinded it off.

and i found it was best to get fresh studs and nuts from preferably the turbo shop to match your own.. then put two nuts on the one stud to tighten to the correct area (and dont forget to put locktie quick release goo on them) and the same again to get them off.

[southern_tango]

Now turbo is out and just waiting for it to come from Hypergear...two question ;can I reuse the T3 gasket? and how tight do the bolts that hold the turbo to the mani should be?they were nearly hand tight when i took them...

Thanks...

[QWK32]

Now turbo is out and just waiting for it to come from Hypergear...two question ;can I reuse the T3 gasket? and how tight do the bolts that hold the turbo to the mani should be?they were nearly hand tight when i took them...

Thanks...

i suppose you could reuse it if its in ok condition, i just that you can pick up a new one for around $20 so why not change it, it would be a real pain if you had to pull it all off again to change it out if it doesn't seal up properly. the nuts should be up tighter than that, but they do work themselves loose over time (and by time i mean years) with the heat, thats why the locking tabs are on there.

how did you go removing it all, easy enough?

Edited October 28, 2010 by QWK32

[PetroDola]

did a gt25 highflow on a 1.8l rolla sportivo recently.. and it wasnt a hard job.

but fwd so the turbo was easily accessible.

stock ecu handled it also.. didnt go too nuts in the highflow no boost cut , or detonation.

t pieced to 18psi.

reused all gaskets works fine.

43mm inducer to 48mm

on the intake side.. cant remember what the zorst side was but it goes fantastic for a shitbox.

Edited October 29, 2010 by PetroDola

[PetroDola]

Replace all studs, nuts and washers while you have it apart. Otherwise the ones that survived the disassembly will snap when you put it back together...

toyo wanted 186$ for the zorst gasket and 92$ a bolt. dump and turbo manifold gaskets were around 100$ also ....that happens when theres only 110 of them.

i got 4 matching studs and nuts to replace the turbo/dump ones that were crusty and got them from mtq for nothing (they did the hiflow for $1400 )

toyo also wanted 5k to replace the stock ihi rb6 turbo when i asked them out of curiousity.. which was stupid tiny.

oh they also wanted $1687 for a replacement turbo zorst manifold because one of the headers on mine spat a hole.

welded it for $80.

absolute jokers.

ill be diying the stagea turbo also.. stuffed im paying someone else.. who will do a half assed job anyway.. so what if it takes a few days longer.. least then you can make sure its done properly every step of the way!

c34 will be a sinch also compared to nm35's

the "engine out" vg30 legacy lives on in vq!

Edited October 29, 2010 by PetroDola