Jump to content
SAU Community

Difference between GTR and GTS-T...?

Zushi
 Share

Recommended Posts

Zushi Contributor

Zushi

Posted
Posted

I'm trying to figure out the differences between the R32 GTR and GTS-T in regards to the front axle set-up. I have the FSM for the R32 GTR and posted the picture of its front axle here Is the R32 GTS-T's set-up anyting like this. Of course it wouldn't be 4wd but I was thinking that maybe the upper links are the same...etc. Please give me some input. Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
RBN1 Mentor

RBN1

Posted
Posted

well my car is having the whole front end suspension re-built pretty much as i'm changing everything I can at the moment to improve handling. That diagrams looks *very* similar to the GTS-T. One thing that definately does seem diff is the cross-member.

There will be other small differences but the basic setup should be the same.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Hi deorbit, the GTST has more caster than the GTR as it is limited due to the four wheel drive requirements. The upper suspension mounting points are in exactly the same positions on the chassis. So the only way Nissan could get the caster difference needed was to have different lower control arm inner mounting points between 2wd and 4wd. Hence the sub frame is different. The shocks, springs and stabiliser bars are the same physicaly, obviously the rates are different though.

If there is something that I have missed that you would like to know, please just ask.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
RBN1 Mentor

RBN1

Posted
Posted

thanks for the info man.

Also i'm gettin adj. upper control arm bushes put in place to adj. camber. Also getting adj. castor rod buses as well. I was asking about replacing the upper control arms and castor rods to improve handing but the place where the car is at just said to get the bushes as its not worth getting the whole hog. This correct?

Is the chassis (apart from the flared guard) of a GTS-T and GTR identical. i.e could the running gear of a R be transplanted into a T without major mods?

Hi deorbit, the GTST has more caster than the GTR as it is limited due to the four wheel drive requirements.  The upper suspension mounting points are in exactly the same positions on the chassis.  So the only way Nissan could get the caster difference needed was to have different lower control arm inner mounting points between 2wd and 4wd.  Hence the sub frame is different.  The shocks, springs and stabiliser bars are the same physicaly, obviously the rates are different though.

If there is something that I have missed that you would like to know, please just ask.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

That would be very interesting to know deorbit.

If there is the possibility it being a simple bolt up of the GTS4/GTR front running gear to be transplanted in to a T I may look in to the $$ involved and see if its worth while doing for the new motor.

I need a new gearbox anyhow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Clint32 Mentor

Clint32

Posted
Posted
I don't know about the others but I may look at bolting up a GTS4 or GTR FWD depending on difference (gearbox strength at ~300rwkw).

the front crossmember would need to be changed and it mounts up differently to the gts, also you would need to belt a large dent in the floor pan for the transfew case to clear. it would be possible but fot the cost of 89 gtrs, its not worth the hassle. Get the chassis sorted and use the better handling and lighter weight to your advanage, just need good tyres

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Hi Joel, RB25DET, as in R33 GTST, gearbox is the same internally as an R32/33 GTR gearbox. I tend to think they would handle more power, as the traction would not be as good (4wd versus 2wd) plus the weight is much less (R32 GTST versus R33 GTR).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OO Dan OO
      Nismo 1.5 way Stub axle issue

      By OO Dan OO · Posted

      I have recently fitted a Nismo GT Pro Center second Hand buy still in the box i got stubs with it but they are 5 bolt and I need 6 (3x2) I was told by Just Jap that for a 4:36 ratio the stub axles are equal length sku 38220-0V161. They didn't have any in stock but I picked up the ones pictured. The one with 5 bolt are the ones that came with the LSD. The right side went in no issues but the right....I have happened the fk out of it put it in a press and it still sticks out about 5mm too far. It was sticking out about 25mm but after bashing it like Chris Brown did to Rhianna I managed to get it a bit further in but seems stuck again now. Any ideas? Should I just leave it 5mm out and send it?        
    • GTSBoy
      Fake ARP bolts?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Meh. I "see" a typo above, that should have been "sell".
    • joshuaho96
      Nismo copper mix twin “pull” pedal height engagement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The clutch pedal has a procedure for adjustment. This can only be done after you are 100% sure the system is absolutely free of air bubbles. You must bleed the clutch master cylinder first, then the "separation pipe" which is the clutch damper line, then the operating cylinder as detailed in the service manual. Also, you must fully depress the clutch pedal between shifts. Just because you can't feel it grabbing does not mean the input shaft is truly decoupled from the crank. At high RPM clutch plates are vibrating and moving around, you need to give it the best possible chance of success. On the BCNR33 Nissan revises these adjustment procedures slightly but not by much: I would be careful with trying to play games with these adjustments. As for the Nismo operating cylinder they say a lot of things. In practice the twin plate clutch needs less movement on the clutch fork to disengage because the whole stackup of the flywheel + friction plates + pressure plate is much taller. Personally if you find that the clutch still disengages too high at the top of the travel I would try the Nismo operating cylinder. Make sure to follow the air bleed procedures. 
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      Thank you for the links. I’m going to go with the 6pin plug you used. next step is rust treating re painting dash support bar and steering column then the 6pin cradle plug when it arrives in the mail.
    • soviet_merlin
      Nismo copper mix twin “pull” pedal height engagement

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      I don't how much the car makes a difference or whether it is just a question of gearbox and clutch. On mine it's fine. Pull type Nismo coppermix twin (standard, not competition) on the 5 speed in my Stagea. OEM slave cylinder. Bite point is a few cm off the very bottom of the pedal. Clutch pedal all the way down to put in gear, and when heading off at the lights, there's a tiny bit of nothing and then it starts biting. And fully engaged before the pedal is all the way released. There's a bit of play at the top where the pedal does nothing anymore. Are you in Australia @ck_chino? If you are set on using a Nismo slave cylinder I have one new-in-box at home. Ordered it together with the clutch but didn't get it fitted. We can work something out if you want it
×
×
  • Create New...