Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

okay first of all hi :)

two weeks ago i purchased a skyline, was sweet. still sweet

its a r34 25gt

yesterday i put unleaded 95 in it. . and today when i drove it there was a lot missfires. . D:

i dont know if its the fuel or rather the car is being dodgy

Edited by mynameisalan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338967-r34-running-unleaded-95-no-go/
Share on other sites

drive very conservatively until you can use 98. If you have E85 around, squeeze some of that into the tank and dilute the 95. Around 10-15 litres will help, octane booster will also work if you get one that actually works.

on a NA 95 octane should be fine. any misfires on 95 won't be from the octane rating. might be from the quality of fuel, but not the octane. you could also try backing the timing off a bit if you are worried.

japan's octane ratings are the same as ours, they just happen to have one that is even higher, but they still have 91 and 95 octane fuels over there from what i gather.

  • 7 months later...

Geeze u guys do like if 95 is kerosene or some shit....

Where i'm from 95 premium is our best brew and we run all skylines on that with no probs...just keeping the boost down on hot days

i run e10 95 in the stagea and keep the boost to 5psi most the time and it runs fine

even on 7 psi its ok, down a bit of power compared to 98 but its fine

  • 2 weeks later...

japan's octane ratings are the same as ours, they just happen to have one that is even higher, but they still have 91 and 95 octane fuels over there from what i gather.

Yes, but the average altitude of Japan is about 1000m, whereas our average altitude is about 400m.

I believe the "knock" map on the standard ECU is designed for 95 octane.

Yes, but the average altitude of Japan is about 1000m, whereas our average altitude is about 400m.

What's the relevance of that on a MAFed engine?

i forgot to tell you guys that my spark plugs was the cause haha. running on 5 cylinders was fun.. NOT

95 is fine stuff but i still run 98 nowadays

Not trying to be rude, but a car down a cylinder sounds a lot worse than the odd backfire... How did you not notice?

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...