Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...

Mine started doing the same thing this morning. Started fine, CEL came on, then got half way down the street when I realised I couldn't rev above 2100.

As soon as I happened I figured it was the AFM, I was just hoping someone could confirm the part number.

I've seen 22680-6N211 bandied about, and cheapest I can find it for is $202 (http://www.g35parts.com/Nissan-part-number-22680-6N211-p/22680-6n211.htm)

However there is another thread where 22680 6N201 is quoted, which is HEAPS cheaper (http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=22680+6N201&_sacat=See-All-Categories).

Can anyone confirm what the right part number is, and how much I can expect to pay?

If anyone has a working spare now's the time to speak up! :) As soon as I get the Fcon in I'll be running the MAP sensor anyway, just need one to see me through about 1-2 months.

Pretty sure I heard Iain say a X-Trail one is the same. Might be a a 2nd handy around (local wrecker) if you only need it for a few months. Otherwise they mightn't be too expensive new from Nissan. If you buy one, it will only be a matter of time before you can sell it to someone else with the same problem, haha

Edit: found the post from Iain- "...same as a t30 xtrail - 22680-6N211. thats for the hotwire only, not the whole tube - which isnt required anyway"

Edited by Commsman

Yeah I found that post too, thanks Leon.

Only thing is I've found the 6N211 is ~$200, and the 6N201 is ~$80.

Big difference in price for a hotwire. Iain thinks they're ~$300+ RRP from Nissan, have to check with them Monday. I'll check the local wreckers but last time I called them they tried to shaft me big time.

I just found the awesome forum thread too, & it sounds too pricey for my liking. If you can do without driving your car over 2500rpm for a while, the cheaper option would be the go.

Iain blew his by sucking in fine red dust @ Coffs rally. Apparently his filter didn't seal perfectly against the airbox.

Could your failure be related to you running that pod filter...? I think I may have commented previously "no free lunch", lol.

6N201 is the plastic tube that the AFM fits into. the 6N211 is the actual hotwire which you need.

yeah mine copped some dust and blew. but it was a 2nd hand one off the wreck, so it was bound to go soon anyway.

the part number Leon has quoted from the M35 stagea forum is the correct one.

Could your failure be related to you running that pod filter...? I think I may have commented previously "no free lunch", lol.

How did I know you'd bring that up? :blush:

Cheers for the part numbers guys, will order one tomorrow. As for whether it's the pod's fault, I was planning on replacing it so I might get that nutted and see if another one goes.

For all I know it's still the original AFM, so I'm not too worried yet.

$240 trade from Nissan for the AFM, and it'll be in tomorrow.

I can probably get it cheaper from the US, but by the time you pay for freight, and have to wait for it over Christmas, I figured it was worth it to get it this week.

  • 2 years later...

Mine started doing the same thing this morning. Started fine, CEL came on, then got half way down the street when I realised I couldn't rev above 2100.

As soon as I happened I figured it was the AFM, I was just hoping someone could confirm the part number.

I've seen 22680-6N211 bandied about, and cheapest I can find it for is $202 (http://www.g35parts.com/Nissan-part-number-22680-6N211-p/22680-6n211.htm)

However there is another thread where 22680 6N201 is quoted, which is HEAPS cheaper (http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=22680+6N201&_sacat=See-All-Categories).

Can anyone confirm what the right part number is, and how much I can expect to pay?

If anyone has a working spare now's the time to speak up! smile.gif As soon as I get the Fcon in I'll be running the MAP sensor anyway, just need one to see me through about 1-2 months.

Has ANYONE tried a 22680 6N201 ?

  • 4 months later...

I've just had mine fitted (personally!) by Scotty as I was 'stranded' at Nissan.

I was quoted $270+gst from Nissan for the 22680-6N21A version after providing my VIN (informed it was supposedly not the original part number that I had done 115,000K on, but the next revision from Nissan)

NOTE: for those who think it's the AFM that needs replacing: I couldn't get my car to idle at all (5 seconds ish of idling like it was on 3 cylinders and then stopping), and as soon as I disconnected the AFM it was drivable in limp home mode. Got me out of trouble, that's for sure.

Thanks Scotty for the AFM. I'll let you know how it goes (I'll keep noting the fuel economy too).

For those of you who have a NM35 with 100k+ on the clock, I'd even carry one in the glove box just in case you are interstate etc. Cheap insurance!

Oh and I don't think it was dust that did mine. I think it was vibration. I drove to Korumburra recently via kooweerup and the roads out there require a lift kit and 35" tyres.

115,000k's might contribute to that :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok gotcha, so one post to fpr  another to bov  and I have the mishimoto boost controller and a link g4+ so I’d just have the tuner set it up properly. For the last two from plenum post throttle to  ecu/ boost controller, I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu? And then the last is just from plenum to boost controller then to wastegate?
    • From there, it was just a quick electrical check, prime the oil and start her up Which, is not what happened. 1. Bloody seppo Aeropro battery holder. Not only was it too tall for the battery (which I'll forgive them for, I have another battery the same nominal size that is taller than Neil's one, but the bracket is a fixed height so the battery was spaced up) But the thing that really shits me is the hardware to hold it on requires a 7/32 Hex key. WTF. No-one will ever be able to remove or install the damn thing without a hex key they don't own 2. Kill switch no longer worked once the console was installed. Neil mentioned above he had to adjust the length but it no longer cleared the console once installed. Sorted. 3. Suspiciously, the brake light holders were hanging in the boot with no globes. Sure enough the stopper on the brake pedal was missing so they are always on unless the kill switch is activated. Will pick one up tomorrow (turns out 32 and 33 don't use the same stopper) 4. All that sorted, I turned on the kill switch, turned the key to ACC. Nothing. Turned it to IGN. Nothing. Checked some fuses and found the main IGN in the boot was missing which improved things once it was replaced. Now ECU and dash lights turn on with IGN but still no fuel pump. 5. Turned it to Start....ECU on, no fuel pump, no starter. Plus the voltage dropped straight to 9v.  I suspect the starter is f**ked but am going to have to work through it all and see what is happening, really looks like more than one issue. Does anyone have the R33 fuse box key with the circuit it sources from (eg BAT, ACC, IGN, SRT etc) and supplies? I can find a translated list showing Amps and circuit without supply circuit, and I can find supply circuit without Amps and target circuit.
    • 3rd time lucky, the AAC is now all plumbed up after getting some final fittings All set up under the plenum of maximum access
    • OK, so the weight has been bugging because it was really low. I did it again today and got a more believable answer at 1246 without driver And with a 93kg driver I'm pretty sure the car was still slightly on the quickjack last time meaning the full weight was not on the scales  
×
×
  • Create New...