Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Series 2 Neo spark plugs?

Its about time to replace my plugs, the mechanic put platinum plugs in last time it was serviced and they havent lasted very long at all. Its starting to miss on idle like it did last time the plugs were on there way out. They are NGK R PFR6G-11.

I dont want to put them back in cause they cost like $25 each and they have only lasted me around 10-15,000km

What do u suggest?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339011-neo-s2-spark-plugs/
Share on other sites

im using NGK iridium ix, but if you want to go for the best of the best, do what i have done to my cars in the past, go for this:

http://www.pulstar.com/

only reason i dont have them in my car is because i didnt have 130 bucks for all 6 when i needed them. :huh:

but next month, out go the iridium and in go the pulse's.

++++copper

They work just as well and they are cheaper: NGK BCPR6ES and gap them at 0.8mm if you think your coils are struggling. Also look for tracking marks where the coils might be shorting and consider insulating them with tape or a spray (search for examples).

  • 3 weeks later...
++++copper

They work just as well and they are cheaper: NGK BCPR6ES and gap them at 0.8mm if you think your coils are struggling. Also look for tracking marks where the coils might be shorting and consider insulating them with tape or a spray (search for examples).

Will the NGK BCPR6ES go in my series 2. Do they come pre gapped to 0.8mm? if not how do u do it safely?

hello

+ 1 for NGK BPR6ES I can not believe the difference they made, mind you my plugs where pretty bad!! when you go to buy them dont tell them what they are for

because they will try and sell you something else, in there book the neo engine is supposed to have 1.1 gap.

I am still trying to get more info on that space saver, I have found that the new falcons do have a space saver and the rim size is 17inch but not sure on rolling diameter.

I brought NGK iridium tip plugs off ebay for about $14 each

stupid me didnt put them at 0.8mm gap and left them at 1.1mm

they are good but i do need to set them to 0.8mm due to a slight miss mid range

If your coil packs are in good condition then 1.1mm should be fine. Unless you are running big power/boost it should be fine and more to the point desirable to run the larger gap to provide the best combustion.

The stagea was running a 1.1mm gap with splitfires and 18psi with the GT-RS and no misfires. With the 2835ProS it is only running 16psi but making a bit more power still with no issues.

NGK BCPR6ES coppers have worked awesome since i put them in :) running mine with splitfire coilpacks :) (came w/ from JP)

i can't remember what was in there originally, but they weren't the right ones and it idled quite high!!

If your coil packs are in good condition then 1.1mm should be fine. Unless you are running big power/boost it should be fine and more to the point desirable to run the larger gap to provide the best combustion.

The stagea was running a 1.1mm gap with splitfires and 18psi with the GT-RS and no misfires. With the 2835ProS it is only running 16psi but making a bit more power still with no issues.

i do have a set of those yellow jacket coils fitted to the car but at about 5000rpm it has a bit of hesitation for about 500rpm then pulls really hard to the redline

very odd i think

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Anyone want to make me an offer to take my v36/g37 3.7l manual coupe in full? Off memory it was low 100k km but the battery is flat so can't tell right now. What's wrong. I had engine problem's that led to a nice clunk. It made it home but it wasn't pretty for the last few kms. Happened under revs. Sounds like bottom end.. never got around to fully checking or fixing it so the car has sat still and unregistered for a few years. Minor bump in front end set the pedestrian protection under bonnet airbag off and that was meant to be repaired, but while waiting for the repair (parts to come) I got the engine problem. The rest of the car is in decent condition. All drive line is good. All interior is good. Leather interior. Wheels in good condition and decent tyres although the ps4s are likely a little too old now it's sat still. Colour of the car is pewter off memory, the dark grey colour. In Camden NSW. Would need a tray back pickup.
    • Anyone want to make me an offer to take my v36/g37 3.7l manual coupe in full? Off memory it was low 100k km but the battery is flat so can't tell right now. What's wrong. I had engine problem's that led to a nice clunk. It made it home but it wasn't pretty for the last few kms. Happened under revs. Sounds like bottom end.. never got around to fully checking or fixing it so the car has sat still and unregistered for a few years. Minor bump in front end set the pedestrian protection under bonnet airbag off and that was meant to be repaired, but while waiting for the repair (parts to come) I got the engine problem. The rest of the car is in decent condition. All drive line is good. All interior is good. Leather interior. Wheels in good condition and decent tyres although the ps4s are likely a little too old now it's sat still. Colour of the car is pewter off memory, the dark grey colour. In Camden NSW. Would need a tray back pickup.
    • I started with the above in my head too, and I might be reading / thinking about what they want wrong, which is why I complicated it a bit further. Purpose I'm seeing is for the corner indicator to be on with headlights, and then if the indicator turns on it can still flash. The relay part above I can see working as required, except in the case of headlight is on, and indicator is on. The change over relay you've wired in would get signal from the indicator, and as it flashes would give power to the globe from the indicator, but as it flashes off, power comes from the headlight, which would cause the indicator to be constantly on when headlight is on, even while indicator change over is flashing. That is unless we don't care if it flashes or not if the headlight is on? I guess that's an OP clarification.
    • HI, Ive got an r34 gtt sedan A/T. The instrument cluster went out and I replaced it with another A/T everything visually looks the same and all the gauges work now with the exception of the speedometer and odometer. The speedo will stay pinned at zero until I'm going about 55kmh and then it'll say Im going about 5kmh. my odometer seems to be tracking at about a 1/10 of what it should. If I go 1km it'll say I've only gone 0.01. Appreciate any and all help. Ive tried searching through the forums reddit and a local fb group. The only info I think I've found is that some cars didnt come equipped with TCS (mind is) and the clusters may be different between those? I've also installed a brand new VSS and no joy obviously. TIA. 
    • what speedo healer did you use?  
×
×
  • Create New...