Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guy's I seem to have an issue with my RB30/RB26 conversion and rather high temps under the bonnet. I have a top mount single turbo conversion and the down pipe runs close to the bulkhead. I have it heat wrapped down to the decat pipe but it still seems to get dam hot. Hot enough to melt the clips on the brake pipe and start melting the wiring up by the ABS on the dyno when I did some run in miles! To be fair the fan tripped out on the dyno which probably didn't help. I then go a turbo beanie and some heat refelctive wrap aroud the pipes and wiring and went for a 1 mile drive no real load when I got back the area around the turbo and downpipe was very hot and I am just a bit worried that it is hotter than it should be?

I guess lean fuel or over advanced igntion are the only real possibles here? I know water temp doesn't seem to get that hot that quick if that give any clues? Water temp was ony just start to get up to temp after my drive.

I am going to try and richen the mix and bit and get another timing light to check timing as two different lights so far show two very different timings?!

Is the sensor from the CAT (now in the decat pipe) and EGT sensor? If so can I read it from the Apexi hand commander and roughly what temp should I be seeing that far down the system?

Any thoughts on tis or people with similar problems to put my mind at rest please?

Cheers

Lee

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339233-rb30-under-bonnet-temp/
Share on other sites

you need to ask your tuner about the condition of the tune.

the car did not come with a top mount turbo so you need to make sure your wires are out of the way of the heat as much as possible.

mine melted with my rb30, causes a big short that ended in smoking wires and 4 blown fuses.

some pics would be nice.

Hey there Buddy,

Well tune wise it is basically on the RB26 base map.. I went on the dyno and they put the injector settings in at correct size (I had used compensation values) and it seemed to pull up okay Air/fuel mix without fuel adjusting? This is on no and low load only as I was only bedding it in? Does the Apexi self learn to a certain extent? I am trying to get a copy of the datalog file to check some figures and can post a copy for people to look at in case something is not right? I am tempted to put my compensation values back in even if it does make it sightly rich but then if the Apexi will self correct slightly then it shouldn't cause a problem. I pulled the plugs after the some miles on the dyno and personally I thought the tips looked like they had been running hot? Althought down in the plug was dark the very tip was very pale coffee colour.

AFR's were around 14 and dropping to 12 up the revs around 3500rpm I think.

What are your thoughts on Ignition timing? The light I set it on shows 20deg and the cam angle sensor is adusted slight of centre on the bolt holes. So the slot has less room to retard it. The other light I tried showed it at 35deg advance at the same point. But then there is not enough adjustment to get the timing back correct with this light? So I set it with the first light as the engine starts fine and sounds fine... keys over fine. I am thinking if it was 35degs advance it would be a bitch to turnover?

and fire very quick on the key?

I could be worrying too much but I sure as hell don't want to risk my rebuild!

In only have the picture below so far showing some of the engine bay.

EngBay4-1.jpg

I have now got a turbo beanie fitted and heat reflective mat down the bulkhead and covering the wires and ABS unit in the corner. The turret has heat reflective tape on and all the pipes and wires along the chassis rails have heat shield sleeves on too. I had accounted for most of this but I wasnt expecting the heat to travel as much as it does! So far the only thing that has been damaged is some pipe clips and the A/C drain pipe and bottom of the A/C unit! Problem I see is that all the heat is getting reflected and confined in a very small space and without a vent in the hood there is nowhere for it to escape. Maybe that is the cause of the problem right there? But I don't see all single top mount guys running vents and propped up bonnets? Just want to be sure I have it right and normal!

Cheers

Lee

Edited by leeroy_25

Sounds likeyou need a decent tuner. Shouldn't be guessing with your timing and if you want to protect your build a first class tune is a must (and if you have run it more than half an hour it should be run-in and you want the best tune possible).

mate you need a decent tune on this car. tuner needs to set ignition timing correctly and also needs map the power fc correctly. You think you know how to set ignition timing but on skylines nothing is "generic" especially setting the timing.

when i tune power fc's i like to try to keep the injector correction at 100% and tune the map accordingly. this is the correct way of doing things.

are there no good tuners there who can do this for you? I could offer you a remote tune for a price. all you need is a internet connection (3g pref) datalogit and a decent wideband that has 0-5v output.

If you need to you can hire a dyno and i can tune it over internet for you.

be VERY carefull how you continue with this car, because there is a big chance things can go south if you make the wrong call.

cheers

Titan,

That is pretty much exactly what I have done now!

Guilt-toy.The tuner who is doing it is a rotary specialist who did my RX7 and does all other jap makes too. He did a brilliant job on my rotary. I am just being extra careful and possiby paranoid about the timing and fueling where it is set now as I know the lights can get a dodgy signal using the inductive pickup off the harness. I am getting an inline timing light to check it tomorrow and put my mind at rest one way or another.

I will go from there re the tune. I do not have datalogit unfortunately so a remote tune is not an option.

I am sure once I get a proper map done it wil be great. I just want to have the basics set up so I can drive it for MOT with a clear head and no worries!

Cheers

Lee

I borrow an inline type timing light to check the timing again and it was spot on.. So that puts my mind at rest. SO I fitted spacers under the bonnet to lift the back and it has helped a lot. Much better after a drive up the road.. Still some fumes and a funny smell but I think/hope it is the crap burning of the new turbo beanie which I only just fitted. So I will keep a close eye. The heatshielding I put between the ABS unit and downpipe seems to work well also, just got to check heat is not getting through lower down the bulkhead where it all gets a bit close near where the A/C drain comes out. It has been melted once but now has shielding there too so as long as that is okay I think I am sorted.

Cheers

Lee

is it just me that saw how lean the AFR's that were mentioned?? that would be creating extra heat right there. trying to run a motor in or be on the safe side you'd want it running alot richer...IMO anyway...

Maybe i missed something...

Edited by -_-StRyDeR-_-
  -_-StRyDeR-_- said:
is it just me that saw how lean the AFR's that were mentioned?? that would be creating extra heat right there. trying to run a motor in or be on the safe side you'd want it running alot richer...IMO anyway...

Maybe i missed something...

^^^Like he said it appears to be quite lean. Do you have a chart to put up? Checking the base timing is fine but it doesn't tell you anything about the rest of the timing. You need Guilt Toy to tune your engine properly (or go on to the UK GTR site to ask for an experienced RB tuner).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...