Rb30 Under Bonnet Temp

[leeroy_25]

Guy's I seem to have an issue with my RB30/RB26 conversion and rather high temps under the bonnet. I have a top mount single turbo conversion and the down pipe runs close to the bulkhead. I have it heat wrapped down to the decat pipe but it still seems to get dam hot. Hot enough to melt the clips on the brake pipe and start melting the wiring up by the ABS on the dyno when I did some run in miles! To be fair the fan tripped out on the dyno which probably didn't help. I then go a turbo beanie and some heat refelctive wrap aroud the pipes and wiring and went for a 1 mile drive no real load when I got back the area around the turbo and downpipe was very hot and I am just a bit worried that it is hotter than it should be?

I guess lean fuel or over advanced igntion are the only real possibles here? I know water temp doesn't seem to get that hot that quick if that give any clues? Water temp was ony just start to get up to temp after my drive.

I am going to try and richen the mix and bit and get another timing light to check timing as two different lights so far show two very different timings?!

Is the sensor from the CAT (now in the decat pipe) and EGT sensor? If so can I read it from the Apexi hand commander and roughly what temp should I be seeing that far down the system?

Any thoughts on tis or people with similar problems to put my mind at rest please?

Cheers

Lee

[Guilt-Toy]

you need to ask your tuner about the condition of the tune.

the car did not come with a top mount turbo so you need to make sure your wires are out of the way of the heat as much as possible.

mine melted with my rb30, causes a big short that ended in smoking wires and 4 blown fuses.

some pics would be nice.

[leeroy_25]

Hey there Buddy,

Well tune wise it is basically on the RB26 base map.. I went on the dyno and they put the injector settings in at correct size (I had used compensation values) and it seemed to pull up okay Air/fuel mix without fuel adjusting? This is on no and low load only as I was only bedding it in? Does the Apexi self learn to a certain extent? I am trying to get a copy of the datalog file to check some figures and can post a copy for people to look at in case something is not right? I am tempted to put my compensation values back in even if it does make it sightly rich but then if the Apexi will self correct slightly then it shouldn't cause a problem. I pulled the plugs after the some miles on the dyno and personally I thought the tips looked like they had been running hot? Althought down in the plug was dark the very tip was very pale coffee colour.

AFR's were around 14 and dropping to 12 up the revs around 3500rpm I think.

What are your thoughts on Ignition timing? The light I set it on shows 20deg and the cam angle sensor is adusted slight of centre on the bolt holes. So the slot has less room to retard it. The other light I tried showed it at 35deg advance at the same point. But then there is not enough adjustment to get the timing back correct with this light? So I set it with the first light as the engine starts fine and sounds fine... keys over fine. I am thinking if it was 35degs advance it would be a bitch to turnover?

and fire very quick on the key?

I could be worrying too much but I sure as hell don't want to risk my rebuild!

In only have the picture below so far showing some of the engine bay.

I have now got a turbo beanie fitted and heat reflective mat down the bulkhead and covering the wires and ABS unit in the corner. The turret has heat reflective tape on and all the pipes and wires along the chassis rails have heat shield sleeves on too. I had accounted for most of this but I wasnt expecting the heat to travel as much as it does! So far the only thing that has been damaged is some pipe clips and the A/C drain pipe and bottom of the A/C unit! Problem I see is that all the heat is getting reflected and confined in a very small space and without a vent in the hood there is nowhere for it to escape. Maybe that is the cause of the problem right there? But I don't see all single top mount guys running vents and propped up bonnets? Just want to be sure I have it right and normal!

Cheers

Lee

Edited October 4, 2010 by leeroy_25

[TiTAN]

Have you considered using some form of heat shield like this? All the wires that run behind look the same these days as they day i put it in.

[KiwiRS4T]

Sounds likeyou need a decent tuner. Shouldn't be guessing with your timing and if you want to protect your build a first class tune is a must (and if you have run it more than half an hour it should be run-in and you want the best tune possible).

[Guilt-Toy]

mate you need a decent tune on this car. tuner needs to set ignition timing correctly and also needs map the power fc correctly. You think you know how to set ignition timing but on skylines nothing is "generic" especially setting the timing.

when i tune power fc's i like to try to keep the injector correction at 100% and tune the map accordingly. this is the correct way of doing things.

are there no good tuners there who can do this for you? I could offer you a remote tune for a price. all you need is a internet connection (3g pref) datalogit and a decent wideband that has 0-5v output.

If you need to you can hire a dyno and i can tune it over internet for you.

be VERY carefull how you continue with this car, because there is a big chance things can go south if you make the wrong call.

cheers

[leeroy_25]

Titan,

That is pretty much exactly what I have done now!

Guilt-toy.The tuner who is doing it is a rotary specialist who did my RX7 and does all other jap makes too. He did a brilliant job on my rotary. I am just being extra careful and possiby paranoid about the timing and fueling where it is set now as I know the lights can get a dodgy signal using the inductive pickup off the harness. I am getting an inline timing light to check it tomorrow and put my mind at rest one way or another.

I will go from there re the tune. I do not have datalogit unfortunately so a remote tune is not an option.

I am sure once I get a proper map done it wil be great. I just want to have the basics set up so I can drive it for MOT with a clear head and no worries!

Cheers

Lee

[leeroy_25]

I borrow an inline type timing light to check the timing again and it was spot on.. So that puts my mind at rest. SO I fitted spacers under the bonnet to lift the back and it has helped a lot. Much better after a drive up the road.. Still some fumes and a funny smell but I think/hope it is the crap burning of the new turbo beanie which I only just fitted. So I will keep a close eye. The heatshielding I put between the ABS unit and downpipe seems to work well also, just got to check heat is not getting through lower down the bulkhead where it all gets a bit close near where the A/C drain comes out. It has been melted once but now has shielding there too so as long as that is okay I think I am sorted.

Cheers

Lee

[-_-StRyDeR-_-]

is it just me that saw how lean the AFR's that were mentioned?? that would be creating extra heat right there. trying to run a motor in or be on the safe side you'd want it running alot richer...IMO anyway...

Maybe i missed something...

Edited October 7, 2010 by -_-StRyDeR-_-

[KiwiRS4T]

is it just me that saw how lean the AFR's that were mentioned?? that would be creating extra heat right there. trying to run a motor in or be on the safe side you'd want it running alot richer...IMO anyway...

Maybe i missed something...

^^^Like he said it appears to be quite lean. Do you have a chart to put up? Checking the base timing is fine but it doesn't tell you anything about the rest of the timing. You need Guilt Toy to tune your engine properly (or go on to the UK GTR site to ask for an experienced RB tuner).