Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

did a bit of a search but came up empty. Google turned up this:

ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.

2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.

2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).

2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.

3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.

4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)

5. Wait about 10 second.

6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.

7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).

8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

Edit: Added the "Easy Method" for ECU Reset

The Easy Method:

After experimenting with different timing, and reading posts by other members, I've come up with a condensed method of doing this reset. This method works EVERY time, even w/o a stopwatch. I've used this method successfully a dozen times, or so, now w/o a watch. After a few times, you won't need a watch or instructions. You'll get so darn good at it, you'll find yourself doing it while waiting at a traffic light.

Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thousand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.

2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.

3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal

4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal

5. Count to 10, depress pedal

6. Count to 10, release pedal.

7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

Will disconnecting the battery be an even easier option? Or does anyone have another procedure lol? Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/
Share on other sites

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.

2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.

3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal

4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal

5. Count to 10, depress pedal

6. Count to 10, release pedal.

7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

Will disconnecting the battery be an even easier option? Or does anyone have another procedure lol? Thanks.

Disconnecting battery doesn't seem to work... unless you leave it off for a few days I guess.

That procedure is the same as our M35 Stagea's

Just a quick note, Step 4 above is where the ECU displays any error codes so perhaps it would be a good idea to write them down before moving on to step 5. :laugh:

Also, I compiled a (long) list of error codes that are applicable to V35, M35 etc for future reference.

Edited by iamhe77
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5479956
Share on other sites

what reason would one have to need to reset the ECU??

Mainly when U get new mechanical mods, for example things like resetting the knock sensor so the ignition timing is accurate after you've added say a throttle-body spacer, resetting the O2 sensor if you've installed HFC or even something as minor as a Z-tube. IMO Any kind of mod to the intake/exhaust and engine (i.e. bigger injectors) will require an ECU reset. In doing that, the ECU 'learns' your driving style and makes any necessary adjustments. Also, if you want to clear any error codes (e.g. airbag light flashing) an ECU reset does the job.

P.S: I've even heard of people resetting the ECU after an Oil change. I don't, however, I don't have any arguments against it so I won't go into it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5484560
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Mainly when U get new mechanical mods, for example things like resetting the knock sensor so the ignition timing is accurate after you've added say a throttle-body spacer, resetting the O2 sensor if you've installed HFC or even something as minor as a Z-tube. IMO Any kind of mod to the intake/exhaust and engine (i.e. bigger injectors) will require an ECU reset. In doing that, the ECU 'learns' your driving style and makes any necessary adjustments. Also, if you want to clear any error codes (e.g. airbag light flashing) an ECU reset does the job.

P.S: I've even heard of people resetting the ECU after an Oil change. I don't, however, I don't have any arguments against it so I won't go into it.

How does the ECU learn?

Is it through time spent at different speeds, average speeds, and rates of acceleration or what? Is it always adjusting and if so why would a reset be necessary?

My LPG Emer sequential vapour injection system was recently installed.

These systems piggyback off the ECU I believe and learn how to operate on LPG based on the ECU.

I am thinking of resetting the ECU as I believe my LPG system should be getting better mileage. However as I am in a remote area I am concerned I may somehow stuff up the motor with no assistance within a few hours drive. Currently 6km / litre on LPG everything else seems fine, easy to start ,good acceleration high speed overtaking no problem.

Before the conversion I was getting around 7km to 9km a litre on petrol dending on speed and driving style. I should be getting only 10 % to 15% worse but I have been told it could be as little as 5 %.

Straight after conversion I drove 2500km on the highway in 2 days. I can’t return to the installer until next year.

Vehicle - 1996 non turbo automatic skyline GTS

Any thoughts as to poor LPG fuel consumption immediately after conversion.

i havent run on petrol since conversion as it is a $1-60 a litre on average

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5500787
Share on other sites

Disconnect the battery and pump the brake peddle 5 times.

Would the above be for all nissan vehicles or just V series motors?

How long after resetting to factory settings does the system stabilise to a new driver.

is it the time and engine is on or km driven

Under what conditions is the ECU modifying the system or does it do it continuously every second !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5500801
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Ok try the long way.

The ECU Resetting Procedures Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.

2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.

2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).

2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.

3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.

4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)

5. Wait about 10 second.

6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.

7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).

8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. :)

If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5531994
Share on other sites

how do u know if u have reset the ecu. Im interested in resetting mine as i have recently bought the car a few months ago and fuel consumption is pretty high. Will resetting the ECU help??

getting 450km per tank on a good day, 370km when i drive with a bit of a lead foot.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5532164
Share on other sites

how do u know if u have reset the ecu. Im interested in resetting mine as i have recently bought the car a few months ago and fuel consumption is pretty high. Will resetting the ECU help??

getting 450km per tank on a good day, 370km when i drive with a bit of a lead foot.

There is a common problem with the V35 and the fuel gauge. You might need it cleaned/replaced. when it's on the red line "E" you could have a 1/4 tank left. Maybe.

You should get 550km on a good tank.

Edited by V35_Paul
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5532463
Share on other sites

tried again....about 20 times, im getting .1-.2 seconds off wen im lapping the stopwatch to the next step and im still getting nothing...should i be trying something different or getting closer - things im thinking i might be doing wrong -

1 - the first step im doing wrong , when do i start counting the first three seconds as soon as i put on the ignition to on or wait till at check light goes off?

2 - also maybe the 5 press and let go (second step), at after the 3 seconds(1st step) is it 1 in and out per seconds or it doesnt matter because im doing it within 3-4 seconds and continuing if i finish the second step before 5 seconds say 3.5 do i wait till 5 seconds then start next step?

Edited by ezy03
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5532827
Share on other sites

tried again....about 20 times, im getting .1-.2 seconds off wen im lapping the stopwatch to the next step and im still getting nothing...should i be trying something different or getting closer - things im thinking i might be doing wrong -

1 - the first step im doing wrong , when do i start counting the first three seconds as soon as i put on the ignition to on or wait till at check light goes off?

2 - also maybe the 5 press and let go (second step), at after the 3 seconds(1st step) is it 1 in and out per seconds or it doesnt matter because im doing it within 3-4 seconds and continuing if i finish the second step before 5 seconds say 3.5 do i wait till 5 seconds then start next step?

1. As soon as you turn it "On".

2. Doesn't matter how quick as long as it's within 5 sec. When the peddle is fully out start counting your 7 sec.

If it's not working maybe your problem can not go away with a reset.

What is the problem your having? Why do you need a reset?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5532856
Share on other sites

installed a few mods and it said to reset it, might get my cai in next week and let the place im getting installed at do it, save me the hassle

You don't need to reset it. You can just drive the car around and the ECU will adjust it's self to the new mods. A few hours of driving will do it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5533252
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My take on gg2 48mm, 54mm, 58mm, and 62mm compressor map for same size compressor vs gg1 : All gg2 only outflow gg1 above 20 psi. As all g gen 2 surge line at lower left of comp map move to the right, all gg2 sacrifice spool vs same size gg1, surge line move to the right worst for 54mm gg2. So for same size compressor if you want best response, use gg1, if you want max hp at >20psi use gg2 but you will be laggier vs same size gg1. Max compressor efficiency drops to max 75% on all gg2 vs max 76%-80% of same size gg1. Iirc lower efficiency means hotter iat less dense air so lower hp at same operating point of comp map. Also curious why gg2 is mapped to lower max rpm vs same size gg1 (only 48mm size both gg1 gg2 mapped to same rpm) : 54mm gg1 165,000 rpm  vs  gg2 160,000 rpm. 58mm gg1 150,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000rpm. 62mm gg1 145,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000 rpm. If gg2 can safely spin to gg1 rpm then they can flow a bit more than as mapped. Good thing that all gg 2 interchange compressor and turbine housings with same size gg 1. So gg1 owners can buy gg2 chra only if planning to boost >20psi.
    • My stuff is all with Shannon's, granted, I don't really have imports I'm driving on the road, however, I've had multiple cars at the same time with them. Presently we have the Landcruiser on laid up cover, Sarah's Kluger on full cover, and the house insured. About 18 months ago Sarah wrote her Subaru Liberty GTB off, insured with Shannon's, and the payout, and buy back of the wreck was super quick. In 2020 we had the VF Commodore totalled in a major hailstorm. Storm was on the Saturday, I called on the Sunday and lodged it, vehicle was towed on Tuesday night, assessment team called on Wednesday to say it was a total loss and get payout details, money was in the bank on Thursday morning. Have had a few other claims both at fault, and not at fault, over the years, and never had an issue with them.   Funnily enough, they're also the cheapest insurer I find for things like Sarah's Kluger.   I will say I'm less impressed dealing with them lately around "the experience", as a lot of their staff that you deal with aren't car enthusiasts. Shannon's has a much more main stream feel ever since they decided to become "big corporate", laid a heap of staff off, and then hired a bunch of non enthusiasts. At the same time they've been making a push to be less "call us and we'll personally have someone who cares help" to "hey, this computer can do stuff for you" and are trying to get more square pegs to fit round holes. (That's just the vibe I get from them). Again, have had no issues with claims with them, but get a bit of a "less personal" feel from them.
    • A thing I wasn’t happy with with enthusiast was during the initial phone call they told me they’d insure it for 130k but needed photos.   I then sent them photos and they told me $80k as there were other cars either similar modifications available for around that price, I told them to send me the links to said cars so that I can buy them. i then sent the modification list with prices of the parts (no labor) and the price then came to 115k, which is still shy of the 130 that was agreed in the initial phone call 
    • Ask me a bit later this week before payday
    • I agree that delayed payment probably isn't the most suitable solution. It seems a solid complete transaction would be best. As I wouldn't be using this sale as a line of credit that would typically earn interest, we can probably arrange a much cleaner single transaction deal. I can do $92.52 today. Would you prefer EFT, or Cash on Pickup?  😛
×
×
  • Create New...