Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

logic says volume and velocity past the compressor is higher than what is in front of the compressor?

isnt that the point of the compressor.... ?

i prefer to run the hot side of the cooler the same ID as the turbo outlet (2.25" - 2.5") and the cool side of the cooler piping the same size as the throttle body. We have run 300+ rwkw on 2.25" (60mm) hot piping and saw no increase when going to 3"

My stock intake pipe vacume shut at 254kw with gcg high flow. This resulted in major power drop from 5000rpm onwards. I have an r33 94 model and from what i have seen some stock intake pipes can handle this power and beyond and others let go. All depends on luck of the draw. I installed metal 3inch pipe inside stock intake but this mod did jack shit for me.

I went to Just jap and sourced an aftermarket rubber reinforced intake pipe and bolted it in. I run stock air box and everything looks factory to the untrained eye. Problems went away and works perfect now, full boost all the way . Yavuz from Unigroup engineering is recommending them to other customers with this common problem and similar set ups with 2.5 inch turbo inlets.

Installation only required some minor trimming of the black JJR intake pipe rubber to make perfect fitment. Im sure with this rubber intake you can run 290kw without any serious modification to intake set up, and you get to keep the stock air box(cops cream themselves over stock air boxes here in nsw)

These days it doesnt pay to look good so the trend is maximum power while maintaining stealth look.

My stock intake pipe vacume shut at 254kw with gcg high flow. This resulted in major power drop from 5000rpm onwards. I have an r33 94 model and from what i have seen some stock intake pipes can handle this power and beyond and others let go. All depends on luck of the draw. I installed metal 3inch pipe inside stock intake but this mod did jack shit for me.

I went to Just jap and sourced an aftermarket rubber reinforced intake pipe and bolted it in. I run stock air box and everything looks factory to the untrained eye. Problems went away and works perfect now, full boost all the way . Yavuz from Unigroup engineering is recommending them to other customers with this common problem and similar set ups with 2.5 inch turbo inlets.

Installation only required some minor trimming of the black JJR intake pipe rubber to make perfect fitment. Im sure with this rubber intake you can run 290kw without any serious modification to intake set up, and you get to keep the stock air box(cops cream themselves over stock air boxes here in nsw)

These days it doesnt pay to look good so the trend is maximum power while maintaining stealth look.

Do you have a link to this Just Jap product?

Do you mean the silicone intake pipe: http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?p...=272&page=2

What do you mean the 3 inch pipe inside the stock intake did jack shit? Did it still suck closed? Or did it suck closed at the 2.5" section? Or did it just not make any more power?

I made a 3" to 2.5" alloy intake pipe on the weekend for my R33 and it now makes a billiontty more killerwasps... (not...)

Seat of the pants dyno says no different to stock rubber intake with a bit of 3" stainless pipe inside. But that is only at 10psi on the stock turbo so who knows...

Edited by Yeedogga
Do you have a link to this Just Jap product?

Do you mean the silicone intake pipe: http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?p...=272&page=2

What do you mean the 3 inch pipe inside the stock intake did jack shit? Did it still suck closed? Or did it suck closed at the 2.5" section? Or did it just not make any more power?

Thats the same JJ intake pipe i used in my car, great product, highly recommended.

The three inch pipe inside my stock rubber intake did not rectify my vacume sealing. The small rubber section that slips onto the front of turbo was closing under boost after i did this modification. When i installed the JJ item, car performed beautiful all through rev range. No vacume syndrome and looks stealth. The JJ silicone pipe is reinforced and very thick. You will need to trim it and dummy fit a few times but it will look like magic once you get it to fit. Just take your time and dont butcher it.

I can arrange some photos if you get excited enough ....

30kw difference from changing intake pipe? If it was vacuuming shut thats understandable, but if its not its really hard to believe. Im running a 3076 with a 4 inch opening, running a reducer from turbo to a 3 inch stainless pipe going to afm into stock airbox. 281rwkw

30kw difference from changing intake pipe? If it was vacuuming shut thats understandable, but if its not its really hard to believe. Im running a 3076 with a 4 inch opening, running a reducer from turbo to a 3 inch stainless pipe going to afm into stock airbox. 281rwkw

Agree 100%, how can you get a 30kw gain from using a different intake pipe that is exactly the same size? The only difference is the material. The standard one must have been sucking shut.

Interesting you are running the stock airbox, I was doing some research on this forum and I found a post by you:

"Standard airbox is shit and restrictive. Car makes 280rwkw with the custom air intake I got, but with the standard airbox in it's own only made 270rwkw. I'll have my extra 10kw thanks. I got an intake setup that would pass you an EPA or a defect just because it looks like I have an airbox . If you wanna know it pm me

btw only talking about the standard r33 gtst airbox. Gtr ones are probably better hence you can make decent power with them withou being too restrictive."

What changed?

Thats the same JJ intake pipe i used in my car, great product, highly recommended.

The three inch pipe inside my stock rubber intake did not rectify my vacume sealing. The small rubber section that slips onto the front of turbo was closing under boost after i did this modification. When i installed the JJ item, car performed beautiful all through rev range. No vacume syndrome and looks stealth. The JJ silicone pipe is reinforced and very thick. You will need to trim it and dummy fit a few times but it will look like magic once you get it to fit. Just take your time and dont butcher it.

I can arrange some photos if you get excited enough ....

Thats the ticket, perfect solution.

silintakepiperb.jpg

Thats the ticket, perfect solution.

silintakepiperb.jpg

Ok I suppose its less prone to sucking shut near the turbo, would be smoother and seems to have more space around the fittings so that they dont disrupt flow.

Does putting hose clamps around the flex part of the stock intake make much of an improvement for the people where it is sucking shut?

I'm getting a boost drop with my highflow and I'm not sure if it is just the wastegate blowing open or if it is something simpler like this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In a few years from now, you'll regret that. It'll eat away at you, knowing the truth of the ugly hiding beneath the beautiful exterior... 😛
    • I don't think the G2 profile is particularly dangerous for the engine per se, more just are you actually ok with the turbo lag trade-offs? If the answer is yes then go for it. I personally don't think I'd be ok with it because I spend so much time at lower RPMs and I really enjoy the feeling of being able to stay in 5th gear on the highway and just roll into the throttle to get boost. Or staying in 3rd gear on "gentle canyon cruises" without feeling the turbo lag too badly. The 525 pump should be able to run flat out on factory lines but I would bet the pressure drop from pump to regulator is quite impressive. I don't know how much it would be exactly but I've seen figures like 30 psi thrown around.
    • It's interesting seeing everyone talk about what level of risk they are happy to tolerate.  Building a GTR always has a level of risk, you could be that lucky guy that drops 20k on the engine build alone and still has the thing go pop on the dyno. Life is fun like that.  The way I see it, the thing is a toy to be enjoyed. I'd be happy to turn up the power on stock motor and limit the risk with sensible tuning and engine protection. If it still goes pop, it is what it is. The car isn't a daily driver so it can happily sit while a plan is made to sort it out.  Given this thing will be a street car only, I really feel it's worth the (relatively small if managed well) risk to turn the power up to around 350KW on e85.  I don't think anyone getting into the skyline game now is doing it out of logic. Surely it is a purely emotional decision so I'm not sure how important it is to think about the engine build logically. The heart wants what it wants.  @joshuaho96 little note for Josh, I run my 525 pump flat out all the time and through the factory lines without any issues. (excluding the melting connectors, that's sorted now. we'll pretend it never happened lol)
    • But the Nexus S3 is very expensive and won't be as purpose-built for the application as a separate electronic boost controller :^) More seriously my pet issue here would be that the Walbro 525 running at 100% duty cycle is going to require more FPR than the stock setup can handle. I'm also pretty sure from what I've seen elsewhere you might want to slow down the pump regardless unless you're going to come up with some way of upsizing the fuel lines coming from the fuel tank. Factory 8mm fuel line doesn't actually flow very much if you want to keep pressure drop down between the fuel pump outlet and FPR. If you really want to "keep it simple" I would run only as much pump as you need and source a fuel pump controller to slow down the pump in the vain hope of being able to run stock-style FPRs which are pretty dinky. Or just use the HICAS lines and it should be mostly fine. OP should also really think hard about what profile they'd want out of the turbo. My pet choice here would be the G1 profile rather than anything higher power but YMMV. I already think ~stock turbo lag is pretty bad so I don't want to make it worse. In "gentle canyon cruising" I found that I spent a lot of time around 4-4.5k RPM. I also recommend DIYing labor if you're detail-oriented enough. Costs are high for labor + if you do it yourself you can be your own quality control.
    • GTSBoy is again on the money. My actual advice? Sell the car. (really). For what it's worth as is, you can sidegrade into something much better. If you care about function then this is the actual move. If you want a Skyline to perform, set aside about $100K to do it. This is NOT a typo. You will see right away these are two very different mindsets. Realistically we're talking full restomod for any Skyline still kicking around. Have an honest think about which one you are.. and what you want to do, and how much you want to invest in this (with no return).
×
×
  • Create New...