Jump to content
SAU Community

2001 Spec S Gt S15


Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Selling on behalf of my cousin all rego papers are in my name now as he is over seas NEED QUICK SALE

1st owner of this car first owner was a 60yr old man that wanted too feel young so he bought a s15 then his wife didnt like it 2nd owner was a good friend of mine who also wanted a S15 cause he loved them and now he is having kids and now ME ! i need to sell as im paying of my loan as im looking at getting a house i do need a quick sale and if anyone can promte this car and sell it ill give ya $200 no questions

130xxx k's on the odometer

It is a 2001 model 6 speed ( im not too familiar with the difference with spec R and Spec s)

MODS:

- Cat back exhaust

- Air filter

- Hyrbid FMIC ( 2 months old)

- Coilovers ( 1 month Old )

- Rear camber adjusters( 1 month old)

- It does have the strut bar in the boot

Interior:

- No Cigarette burns

- no rips in seats

- no scratches

- boost gauge in the middle air vent

- Pioneer head unit

- 6 speed Manual

Exterior:

- Currently sitting on 20's BUT I SAID BUT does come with stock wheels, Air box and STOCK Side mounted inter cooler with all piping to and from everything

Im looking for a good price i do need a quick sale Rego is until 28th march 2010

PRICE $19000 ONO like i said $200 bux if u find me a buyer

CALL 0410 855 334 FOR MORE INFO

post-68200-1286415482_thumb.jpg

post-68200-1286415497_thumb.jpg

post-68200-1286415508_thumb.jpg

post-68200-1286415528_thumb.jpg

post-68200-1286415541_thumb.jpg

post-68200-1286415551_thumb.jpg

post-68200-1286415607_thumb.jpg

post-68200-1286415627_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep i know that now lol im not very good with silvia's but its just a spec 's' i believe i still dont know the diff between that and a spec R cause ive seen a few spec r's without leather and that .. hmmm ohwell its still cheap as hell and i need it gone by the weekend

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep i know that now lol im not very good with silvia's but its just a spec 's' i believe i still dont know the diff between that and a spec R cause ive seen a few spec r's without leather and that .. hmmm ohwell its still cheap as hell and i need it gone by the weekend

only about 40kW of power...

good car and nice price tho, gd lucky

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, maybe not. The main feature of Chinese manufacture seems to be incredibly variable quality, coupled with an apparent willingness to find a way to see even the stuff that fails QC. So the military could still take the cream of the production run and somehow sell the "sellable but not really useable" stuff to the stupid round eyes on the other side of the world.
    • Have you adjusted the clutch pedal rod? You can wind it in to shorten it. Just can be a cnut to get to.
    • Yes sir, that was me. Fake ARP's are also a thing over here in Canada and we only order from reputable dealers. It's sad that even simple things like bolts and hoses are now also being copied... anything to make a dollar.  Story time. Like all cheap crap from China, it's even an issue with firearms. Roughly 15 years ago, I purchased a new cheap Norinco 12g shotgun. First time out in the bush with it, while firing, bolt assembly didn't lock and it fired out of battery. The receiver also being cheap steel, basically exploded in my face. I was lucky to be wearing eye protection. Long story short, don't buy Chinese junk. Also Norinco being state run and their only military arms producer, if ever they do try and take over a country, don't worry about it lol. 
    • Installed  Nismo coppermix twin competition spec last year in my bnr32 with pull trans with Oem slave cylinder. The point at where the clutch disengages/enages is right at the top of the clutch pedal, meaning I barely have to push the pedal down for the clutch to be disengaged.  You guys that have the same combo are you experiencing this high pedal bite point??   Secondly I’d like to have the disengagement point lower meaning I have to push the pedal more(further not effort)for it to be disengaged.  I’m thinking to use a Nismo big operating cylinder(bigger bore at 13/16 vs Oem 3/4) which will require more pedal stroke to get the equivalent movement at the clutch fork. But I see Nismo web site says not to mix these 2 as the Nismo big operating cylinder doesn’t have enough stroke to disengage??? Any folks run both the coppermix twin pull with Nismo cylinder??    Thanks in advance for the replies but prefer only guys with pull clutches to respond. thanks     
×
×
  • Create New...