Jump to content
SAU Community

High Performance Driving Course (mallala)

V35-2005

By V35-2005,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

heslo Grand Master

heslo

Posted
Posted
sounds like it was a fun day out there. well the rain made it exciting for a few people also don't forget that with the rain the track temps would have been lower. so michael those temps would be getting up there on a warmish day. i personally run the A1RM's on my car and for me they didn't need to be cooled down after 3 hot laps mate. i was doing 10 hot lap sessions and there was no brake fade or it felt like it needed to be cooled down.

i remember my first time out there and the whole day i managed a best lap of 1:28:xxx and that was on street tires etc.

You weren't pushing hard enough ;)

  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Brezza Proficient

Brezza

Posted
Posted

I'm not trying to bag the A1RM's completely, they held up quite well to the task. and they're right on the money being a transition pad between street and track.

Yeah Madaz you're right the car is heavier than a GTS-t and has 350kw.

Even the instructor noticed small brake fade after 2 laps but he was pushing much harder than me.

The only place i found the brakes to fade was after the hairpin coming around the sweeper and braking into the esses, two big stops in a row was a little hard on the brakes.

Cant wait for the next track day, clutch is being installed later on this week! its slipping bad on takeoff.

Krishy Grand Master

Krishy

Posted
Posted
I'm not trying to bag the A1RM's completely, they held up quite well to the task. and they're right on the money being a transition pad between street and track.

Yeah Madaz you're right the car is heavier than a GTS-t and has 350kw.

Even the instructor noticed small brake fade after 2 laps but he was pushing much harder than me.

The only place i found the brakes to fade was after the hairpin coming around the sweeper and braking into the esses, two big stops in a row was a little hard on the brakes.

Cant wait for the next track day, clutch is being installed later on this week! its slipping bad on takeoff.

I didn't say that you were bagging the A1RM's mate. It was more of a wow factor that you felt brake fade and i with others didn't? do you have braided brake lines?? if not then seriously look into it and some DOT 5 fluid. That will help a lot with the brakes

Brezza Proficient

Brezza

Posted
Posted
I didn't say that you were bagging the A1RM's mate. It was more of a wow factor that you felt brake fade and i with others didn't? do you have braided brake lines?? if not then seriously look into it and some DOT 5 fluid. That will help a lot with the brakes

Yeah i had braided lines made up, the HEL ones didnt fit properly apparently so the bloke who removed my ABS sourced some ADR approved ones.

I'm running Martini GS 610 brake fluid in the car, so it should most definitely be up to the task.

Hey Michael do you have your rotors slotted?

Nah the rotors are std ones, they were low on material too, some were .5mm and others were .2mm off minimum thickness.

I'm also still running the stone guards, will be cutting them off when i put on some RDA slotted rotors. will be going for the RDA ones because they're probably best value for money. haven't heard stories of them cracking.

Has anyone run Hawk HT-10 pads before?

i'm looking into buying some for track days from the US, they're too expensive here, i can save an easy $100 each end on buying from the US

D_Stirls Veteran

D_Stirls

Posted
Posted

I think you will find that if you have slotted rotors you will get to run longer before you have fading issues. The slots will help remove any glazing that the high temps will cause as well as not allowing the outer surface to get as hot as the outer most material will be constantly removed. Also the slots release the gas pressure that builds up between the pad and the rotor on heavy braking.

Jap_star Mentor

Jap_star

Posted
Posted
lol thats a pretty big call to make helslo :(

i was doing those times consistently ;)

consistantly slow by the sounds of it. michael on here did consistant 1:28s on his first day with front mount, exhaust and coils in his 34 GTT

R32.GTR Collaborator

R32.GTR

Posted
Posted

Did you Have to be a sausa member to do this special track day? As I enquired about this on the first page, asked to be added to the list of ppl keen but got no response? Woulda loved to do this.. But didn't hear from anyone

Krishy Grand Master

Krishy

Posted
Posted

Did you Have to be a sausa member to do this special track day? As I enquired about this on the first page, asked to be added to the list of ppl keen but got no response? Woulda loved to do this.. But didn't hear from anyone

i think it was open to anyone on the forums here in SA

heslo Grand Master

heslo

Posted
Posted

Oh ok yeh though so but I asked to be added to the list then heard nothing back.. Oh well next time maybe

Sorry bud, honestly missed your post. Had you said something earlier, could have fixed that :)

Apologies

R32.GTR Collaborator

R32.GTR

Posted
Posted

Saved myself $450 odd dollars tho lol.. Woulda been a great experience.

Yeh well I woulda said something earlier but I've had a bit on my mind nd that slipped haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • drifter17a
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By drifter17a · Posted

      So been ocd with timing mark but checked from few angle and seems both cam are on and crank is matching as well to the slot on sump and crank pully   i noticed crankshaft cover has been robbed as per attached pic. Any ideas why? Could my balancer or harmonic be on its way out? should I replace the cover? https://ibb.co/ZR1JFYRR
    • drifter17a
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By drifter17a · Posted

      So now doing the change and first time dealing with rb so little nervous giving engine power and potential for screwing it up When you align all marks and then remove crank bolt, timing move little I assume you can put the bolt back in once you have removed the pully to get timing to where you want?   here is pic of my both intake and exchust cam aligned, depending on angle you look they seem to be either aligned or a half tooth or so out. Any thoughts? Should you angle your face and look at each mark that way as if looking straight rather than from above as it can be misleading   <a href="https://ibb.co/ZpnhcvbF"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/HfWrGR9b/IMG-4447.jpg" alt="IMG-4447" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/4wm2wn4q"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/JWBqWwr1/IMG-4445.jpg" alt="IMG-4445" border="0"></a>   https://ibb.co/ZpnhcvbF https://ibb.co/4wm2wn4q
    • sunsetR33
      braided lines for the turbos

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy Haven't really thought of that yet, but you are right. If the hose was damaged it should be absolutely pissing by now. I'll put some heat sleeve around it for good measure since I'm already removing the line anyway.  Maybe I'll put on some of the stock hardlines if I ever fully remove the turbos again. Maybe when T51R modding the compressor housings? Might be a fun mod on GT28s for that "fake single turbo" effect.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 1: I did some work on the car already before finalizing this post and my "issues" list. I dropped the Tomei exhaust in favor of the HKS Hi Power Silent. Sounds nice and I can actually hear myself think now. Also gives me a realistic chance to legally drive without silencer inserts. A bit of cheating was necessary to still be able to mount the Top Secret style diffuser. Some malusage of washers and a bit of "convincing" toward the brackets and exhaust hanger seemed to do the trick. The shaky steering wheel has been resolved as various suspension components were worn, like sway bar bushings and link bars. Most notably the two steering tie rod ends. Had some trouble finding bushings because my sway bars are not OEM thickness, 23.x up front and 27 rear. But non adjustable, so no aftermarket I suppose. Maybe they are nismo units? Turbo oil drain hoses were definitely still the originals and are new now. Wasn't the cause of the turbo oil leak sadly. Currently removing the rear turbo because of it, I suspect the braided oil feed line is the culprit. This issue needs to be dealt with so I can work towards actually getting the turbo setup legal and inspected. Two new issues to add to the list as well. Rear Main seal is probably leaking. Time will show how bad it is, I don't really want to drop the gearbox right now just for the stupid seal. Could fix a few other things in one go once I do that. Front right driveshaft grease is going past the cv boot, so at some point I'll fix that too.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok so no 4cyl clutch... Yeah it is a factory manual. So if iam correct i need clutch and flywheel too? I can use something that suits something like R32 GTST?   EDIT: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224291042776 Is this ok?   EDIT2: i maybe forget to mention this(dk how important it is) but the trans will be behind RB25DET NEO(iam doing swap) It will be there for a little while. Iam planing to do bigbox or BMW tranny..
×
×
  • Create New...